quick timing belt question 1.6 idi

[FrankenDiesel]

I have a '90 na idi that the belt is questionable
 The car runs good and starts decently when cold so the timing seems to be good (for the IP).

Now, on gas engines, this is what I do for timing belts. I usually mark the belt, and the gears, lable belt, transfer marks, and check timing. This saves time of looking for timing marks and such if its a car you haven't done, and if it all cranks over by hand you are good.

I have no idea and no interest in changing IP timing. This car is my daily so I would rather not have there be an issue. Is there any reason I couldn't do as I stated above for an idi belt.

I would mark the belt in relation to gears, including IP. I was also going to mark the gears in relation to the engine (such ad a paint mark on the head/block or IP bracket). Everything stays as it should, then the car is kosher, correct?

Thanks

[ORCoaster]

I don't recommend this method.  There is a  procedure that is so easy to follow and proven that trying to do it differently just makes it more not less work.  Get the proper tools or the tension on the cam and the IP are going to be released and you will not get things back in alignment otherwise.  Well, you could but it is going to take a lot of time to do it.

So follow the Bentley process, Get the stop in the IP and the back of the cam to be sure you have TDC on the #1 cyl.  The TDC of the crank is visible through the hole in the back of the transmission area.  Follow process and you will have more luck and if you have problems we can help.  Follow some unorthodox process and we are all left scratching our butts trying to figure out what would have gone south on you.

There's my two cents and change.

[vanbcguy]

It is not possible to change the belt without affecting the IP timing somewhat.  If you try to shortcut you'll end up with your timing out afterwards.  At best you'll get away without smacking valves but these engines are NOT like gassers, the timing is much more critical and there is a lot less room for error.

The tools to do it properly are readily available on eBay and the like for cheap.

[FrankenDiesel]

Ok just was wondering. I've changed quite a few belts and a lot of e30 belts this method with great success.

I'll order the tools thanks

[sgnimj96]

     The cam sprocket has no key.
  To get the cam and crank correct you have to lock the camshaft (at the back end) and line up the flywheel (trans site hole) to TDC.     When you take the belt off, the crank and/or cam may move, mostly the crank, especially when you put on and tighten a new belt (proper procedure prevents this).   You have to visually verify that the cam and crank are both at TDC with the new belt, then tighten the cam sprocket.   

 Don't forget to remove the cam locking plate and IP locking pin before rotating the engine.   
 
  I use the wheel to rotate the engine,  jack up the pass side wheel, put trans (manual) in 4th or 5th,   turning wheel by hand clockwise rotates engine clockwise.