Transmission questions

[hillbillybuddha]

I just picked up an 84 Jetta diesel  (non-turbo) 5 speed and I seem to be having trouble with first gear. I feel like I'm starting in 3rd gear.It's real slow and stumbles off the line but once I get to about 20 mph in first it feels great. I have to play with the clutch a lot so it doesn't stall. To test whether or not I was actually starting in 3rd, I tried starting in 2nd but that didn't work at all so it's actually starting in first but it's having a lot of trouble with it. Also the shifter is very sloppy, like there isn't a clear path for neutral, the PO said it needs a new shifter bushing and I've had a similar issue with an old Ford and it feels the same so I think he's right but I thought I'd mention it as long as I'm asking about the trans.
I can also smell the clutch burning a little and it feels like it might be sticking sometimes in city driving but seems Ok on the freeway. I had my girl friend step on the clutch pedal and I seem to have a good amount of travel with the clutch actuator but I'll take your suggestions.

Thanks,
Joel

[TylerDurden]

On one hand, bad shifter bushings are common. On the other hand, a clutch that doesn't completely disengage will make shifting difficult too.

Is there smoke? Light and greyish, or dark and sooty?

What's the outdoor temperature for this test?

[hillbillybuddha]

It's 59 F here in California right now. I didn't notice any smoke but being a diesel, I'm guessing there should be some smoke. Since I didn't notice any, I'm going to guess it's a light smoke.
The bushing I replaced on the ford was as simple as removing the shift stick, dropping in the bushing and replacing the shifter. I'm hoping it's as easy as it was on the ford.
Does this transmission have an access / viewing area so I can get my eyes on the clutch, so I can make sure it's disengaging? I'm sure it's all least "mostly" disengaging because I can come to a stop, in gear, with the pedal pressed. If anything, in regards to first gear, I'd be more worried that the clutch isn't fully engaging but that wouldn't explain the smell of burning clutch.

[burn_your_money]

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,35325.msg334137.html

[air-cooled or diesel]

replacing the bushings isnt too hard. theres 1 underneath the main rod bushing, thats harder, iirc i had to put car on stands and do some smart wrenching to get at it. i used some m5 allen bolts w/locks, and sprayed protectant, grease. theres the other 2 bushings, on the shift shafts, the ball device, and something like 2 bushings for the reverse. grease. the adjustment isnt too difficult, i have the tool/spacer, last time i did it i didnt need to use tool, although ive forgotten the space of it by now.

[TylerDurden]

Ja, the shifter might have a bit more external linkage than a Warner. The kits usually have the bushings, rods and ball.



Sluggish off the line sounds like a fuel issue...

I'd give the IP (Injection Pump) an in-car cleaning with a couple cans of LubroMoly Diesel Purge: Get some clear fuel line ( two pieces ~ 2' ) and connect to the inlet and outlet of the IP, put the ends into a clean container with the cleaner - run the engine on the cleaner, it burns like fuel and dissolves crud in the injection system. Works pretty good.

It takes some time to burn all the cleaner, and the container may get warm from the circulating fuel - it circulates much more fuel than it burns (to cool the internals). If the cleaner gets darker while circulating, it is doing the job.

[air-cooled or diesel]

your pic doesnt include the main rod bushing(as i call it). mine went in a holder. thats what i needed the m5 hardware for. and the later models (86 or so) had a ball and cage type of operation, get the whole kit if you have this.
adjust clutch
maybe the hardware was m4, i forget.

[air-cooled or diesel]

if you pop the shifter cover there should be at least one plastic bushing, in my 86 i think there were 2 the bottom 1 was hard to get too.(grease).

[hillbillybuddha]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to order the bushing kit tomorrow and try to find some of that LubroMoly today. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Thanks again

[hillbillybuddha]

Ok. I ran the lubromoly through the system. I noticed a couple things in the process. Everything I read said that the lines get hot, the lines didn't even get warm, well, no warmer than my hand. Second thing was that the lubromoly never changed color.
The odd thing is that once I get it going on first, it never feels like it needs to change gear. 20 or 30 mph feel great in first gear. But to get it going in first takes a lot of clutch work. i.e. get it rolling (like 2 mph) clutch before it stalls, Rev and let up the clutch pedal a little to get it to 5 mph, repeat a couple times until it is going.

Hmmm?

[hillbillybuddha]

Found first. It's in the same place as reverse, got to push down in the shifter like you're going into reverse but don't push it all the way up into reverse. It's really hard to find and I go into reverse more often then not. I'll order the bushing kit, hopefully that'll fix it.

[TylerDurden]

Ja, that sounds pretty typical. And there's no point in setting the shifter position with the special tool (or cassette tape) until the bushings are good. Motor mount misalignment or failure can throw off shifter alignment too.

Seems another member is clueless about how to link images, so here is a pic of the big bushing that the main rod goes through.


Shift lever pivots can go bad too, but not as often as the little bushings.




WRT the rough startoff... kinda weird, especially if it idles ok and no outrageous grinding noises.  Flywheels have come off, but usually that doesn't take long and things come to a quick stop.

[burn_your_money]

Rough start off is likely from starting in 3rd.

[hillbillybuddha]

I ordered a bushing kit from my local VW shop, turns out I'm a couple blocks from a place called Kombi Haus. They seem like a good resource. The kit should be here by the afternoon. Is there anything I should know before I start this? Any good write-ups or youtube videos? The guy at the shop said not to pull any with splines without marking positions first. Anything else?

[air-cooled or diesel]

the mk2 bushing(main rod) is different and goes in a holder that is riveted, so i put in m4 or m5 hardware, and sprayed protectant on them. 
i dont see how you think the lubro-moloy will change in color, if you do it right you have the inlet line to injpump going to 'bottle' and the return line to. run motor at different rpms (like 2000rpm is high, dont rev over too much). the work is done in the ip and injectors. as you run it.
and if your talking about the injection lines(not running warm), they will get warm as engine warms up, but run cool. if you cold started it it may take a little to warm up. run lubro-moloy thru a warm motor.