Question about rear axel bushing

[A Guy]

Vehicle '91 Golf 1.6 NA 3dr.  
Some have called them rear axel bushings.  some rear ctrl arm bushings.  What ever they're called mine are done.  I bought rubber oem ones.  Thought it would be an easy job-got under and realised not the case.  Are these things welded in?  I read a DIY post on another site that was recently mentioned and it was said that the poly replacement are easier to put in and obviously last longer.  What's the deal?  
Does the entire rear member have to be removed?  Finally, how do you remove the clip that holds the brake line connection between the metal line and the hard rubber lind.  Most I've worked on either pop out (up or down) This type is locked top and bottom.  Whay kind of wrench gets in there?  
 :?
TIA
Out.
Greg

[chrissev]

Vehicle '91 Golf 1.6 NA 3dr.  
Some have called them rear axel bushings.  some rear ctrl arm bushings.  What ever they're called mine are done.  I bought rubber oem ones.  Thought it would be an easy job-got under and realised not the case.  Are these things welded in?  I read a DIY post on another site that was recently mentioned and it was said that the poly replacement are easier to put in and obviously last longer.  What's the deal?  
Does the entire rear member have to be removed?  Finally, how do you remove the clip that holds the brake line connection between the metal line and the hard rubber lind.  Most I've worked on either pop out (up or down) This type is locked top and bottom.  Whay kind of wrench gets in there?  
 :?
TIA
Out.
Greg

not sure about the rear axles but the brake line clip is located behind the fitting that attaches the brake line to the flex hose.  So to make a long story short, you have to separate flex hose from brake line before you can remove the clip.  I have replaced rear brake lines on those cars before and everything is usually rusted in place pretty good.  The line from the wheel cylinder to the flex hose is pretty short so if you have to, cut it near the connection to the flex hose, then put a socket over it (10mm I think, though some of them are 12mm), hold the flex hose fitting with an open ended wrench, and then just work it until the fitting comes out of the flex hose.  You will then be able to remove the clip.  Working back there is always a b*tch because of all the rust and corrosion that will be on all the parts.  

Chris

[A Guy]

Thanks Chris.
What about the bushing?  Are they actually welded in there and what's the difference with the poly ones?  
Out.

[A Guy]

anyone? anyone? Bueler?....

[moosiah]

I just changed mine on the frankenbunny.... I unbolted the pivot points and let the axel hang down while I pulled the pivot bolts out...... the rubber bushes just get stuck in there .....I used a BFH and a bar to push them out... the poly ones slipped in by hand w a little silacone grease..... Done!!!!! It's just a pain to get them started out..... good luck!!!!!
don't forget to use jackstands to hold up the car, first :wink:

[A Guy]

That sounds simple enough but when I went to do the job it looked like the metal surrounding of the bushing was welded to the frame?? :?
You're saying that they will smack out or in?
Did you need to diconnect the brake lines?  How does that bolt slip out so the axels will drop?  I found that the bolt would only come out 2/3 of the way prior to it binding on the brake line.  
Is the rear of your car the same as my 91 1.6 na golf?


Thank you very much in advance!
Out.
Greg

[chrissev]

That sounds simple enough but when I went to do the job it looked like the metal surrounding of the bushing was welded to the frame?? :?
You're saying that they will smack out or in?
Did you need to diconnect the brake lines?  How does that bolt slip out so the axels will drop?  I found that the bolt would only come out 2/3 of the way prior to it binding on the brake line.  
Is the rear of your car the same as my 91 1.6 na golf?


Thank you very much in advance!
Out.
Greg

you can drop the rear axle without disconnecting the brake lines, but it is very likely that you will snap a line or two.  Fortunately brake lines are cheap and super easy to replace.  If the brake line is in the way just take it out.  It is probably rusty and needs to be replaced anyway.  Honestly the brake lines are not a problem.  Just take them out and replace them with new ones later.  I guess you also know that the rear axle will only drop so far with the suspension connected still?  If you want to drop it further you have to disconnect the suspension, either by disconnecting the rear shocks from the axle, or undoing the bolts in the trunk.  Then lift the back of the car.  How are you dropping the axles?  Usually it is done by undoing the two bolts holding the axle to the body of the car on either side.  Be careful with them cause if you snap them, you need a new car.  It isn't possible to repair the damage at that point (the bolts are threaded onto studs, which are perfectly aligned with the rest of the car's geometry, snap them and that is it, game over).  I usually either put a torch to them to heat them first before I try to crack them loose, or spray them with some penetrating oil, or sometimes both.  That is the usual method of dropping the axle.  Once you've done that you can replace the bushings I guess, the stress will be off them at that point (though I have never done that so just assuming that is the case).

[A Guy]

That's pretty much what I figured.  Where the axel mounts to the body there are three bolts holding it it place and they appear to thred into the underside of the car, via sleeves I expect.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I am concerned about screwing up one of those bolts now though as you've put the fear of God into me.    I'll pre-heat this time.  
I wasn't planning on dropping it further than the suspension would allow.  Do you think I'll have problems with it still connected to the susp.? I don't want to do any more brake stuff but I suppose I'd better get prepared and have some pre cut lines on hand when I do the job.  Thanks for the insight.  
Out.

[chrissev]

That's pretty much what I figured.  Where the axel mounts to the body there are three bolts holding it it place and they appear to thred into the underside of the car, via sleeves I expect.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I am concerned about screwing up one of those bolts now though as you've put the fear of God into me.    I'll pre-heat this time.  
I wasn't planning on dropping it further than the suspension would allow.  Do you think I'll have problems with it still connected to the susp.? I don't want to do any more brake stuff but I suppose I'd better get prepared and have some pre cut lines on hand when I do the job.  Thanks for the insight.  
Out.

Re: three bolts into sleeves:  unless I am mistaken or VW changed things on later model cars, those bolts you see are actually nuts which are threaded onto studs that go into the rear subframe of the car.
I actually had the opportunity of looking inside the rear subframe of a very rusty rabbit to see exactly how those studs are attached to the body.  There was a flat, round circular head at the tip of the stud on the inside of the subframe which appeared to be either pressed or welded to the subframe.  So yeah, if your car has studs like this, be careful with them.  Break any of those studs and you might as well get a new Golf.  If the axle doesn't drop far enough for you to work comfortably on the bushings, then it is very easy to disconnect the suspension.  The shock is held on by one nut and bolt.  Remove, and it is disconnected.  You can expect to break a brake line or two unless they are almost brand new.  Usually they are pretty rusty back there.  Good luck with it.  Also FYI VW brake lines are double flanged.  Which means that Crappy Tire brake lines or other lines you buy at regular auto parts stores won't work.  You need to get them from VW or from a parts store that caters to VWs specifically.

Chris

[A Guy]

Good info on the brake lines.  Re the three bolts. Either I'm not looking at the right place or something's screwy.  I'll have to have another look.  The manual isn't clear here.