Okay I got everything all buttoned up and ready to go.
I was able to stick a thick 1ft socket extension bar in one of the cam sprocket holes such that it would lie down flat on the side of the head. Then I removed the cam locking plate and held the tool down to keep the sprocket secure while I broke it free. Worked like a charm. Then I put the cam lock back in.
After that I got the belt back on and it took me a few tries to get it such that the crank was still at TDC after the belt was tensioned. On the 3rd try all the slack was on the camshaft side and tensioning the belt finally left the crank alone and turned the free-turning cam sprocket instead.
Now I understand why they say to loosen the cam sprocket. It was impossible to get the belt over it without taking it off. So I took it off, then I was able to hold the belt on the sprocket and slide it back onto the camshaft. And of course the time that it tensioned correctly was the time the belt rotated that sprocket instead of the crank.
I then removed the cam lock and injection pump locking pin and started rotating the engine clockwise (facing the drivers front tire from the passenger side of the car). I didn't need to use any tools to rotate the engine since I noticed that the alternator fins could be turned by hand. Due to the V-belt on the alternator providing some leverage it would turn the crank. So next time you need to turn the engine manually try just using your fingers on the alternator cooling fins. Worked like a charm.
I turned the engine over probably 5 or 6 full revolutions because I was paranoid. I felt no resistance other than a "variable" resistance and the sound of air compressing as it was hitting the compression stroke. Still with only my hands I was able to turn it over without any strange noises or "stops".
While turning the engine over I never had to force anything. The rotating force required was the same that I felt while turning it over to find TDC at the beginning before I pulled the belt and pump. I think that means I'm good to go but I still haven't tried starting it yet. Figured I'd post here and make sure and then wait until tomorrow since it's now 9pm and too late to make a big racket next to my neighbors bedroom window.
I think I found the issue with the vacuum loss too. The hard plastic thin hose running from the T-fitting on the (water/vac pump?) up to the passenger side firewall appears to have cracked. I think that goes inside the car and likely is used by the HVAC system. I'll get a rubber join piece and stick it back together.
I didn't get any pics because it's quite dark out but I'll take some tomorrow. So does it sound like I'm safe to prime the pump and try to start it? My plan was to use a funnel and pour diesel into the fuel injection pump then leave the injector nozzles cracked and crank until I see fuel, then tighten and try to start it. I assume this will be a difficult start so I plan to plug the block heater in too so it's nice and toasty.
Sorry for the long winded post guys. Thanks