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#30
by
libbydiesel
on 04 Dec, 2014 14:10
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Any leak, even at the small injector jumpers will make cranking time longer. Fix the leaks.
The electrical system on these cars is extremely simple. I don't recall the specific fuse, but testing and finding out why the heater blower is not working should be easy.
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#31
by
acidtonic
on 04 Dec, 2014 15:50
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I plan to play with it more when it warms up a bit. For now it's starting more "regularly" and I feel like I'm good as long as I start it up every day now.
I also want to toy around with putting an electric motor in it and using a cluster of those batteries I already have access to. I was planning something similar with the Geo Metro 1.0 3 cylinder I also have but the frame on that car went bad on me. I have some rather large solar panels I pondered installing in place of the rear seats.
Also I have no parking brake. There's a cup-holder thing there so I'm going to pull that and check out the E-brake situation. Tired of rolling when I clutch-in to start.
Power brakes seem weaker or less assisted than they were recently. Probably need to flush the fluid and bleed them. The car is so light that it's not a priority since I can still stop it on a dime by just using some pressure.
Any pointers on cheap rust-proofing? Since this car is nice and clean, I want to try to preserve it without letting Michigan salt have it's way.
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#32
by
TylerDurden
on 05 Dec, 2014 17:20
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Electric conversion: lead sucks ballz... big, heavy, super slow to charge, bad Peukert effect, lame in the cold... the list goes on.
Brakes: check for vacuum leaks too.
Cheap rustproofing: Keep all the weep holes clear.
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#33
by
acidtonic
on 05 Dec, 2014 21:30
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#34
by
nissannx
on 06 Dec, 2014 05:46
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I would also like to know. I also need to get an indicator soon as well
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#35
by
TylerDurden
on 06 Dec, 2014 05:48
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The HF dial indicators are fine, I use them.
The PartsPlace and I go back a few decades. Same with S&G Import parts.
I get my new parts from S&G, for vintage stuff I'd see Jack who sold PartsPlace to his daughter. Jack has the ads on Craigslist (Auburn Hills).
I'd compare the prices on the parts & tools to S&G, if it isn't a big difference PP is ok and they usually stock the Bentley manuals.
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#36
by
acidtonic
on 06 Dec, 2014 12:02
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Well turns out the harbor freight indicator will NOT WORK. I was tricked by the wording.
I figured it was a "travel size" dial indicator.
Nope, it's a dial indicator that measures "travel distance". As in how far the pin is pushed in and out, it doesn't measure rotation or screw into anything on the end.
So I'm back to looking for a good dial indicator locally.
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#37
by
TylerDurden
on 06 Dec, 2014 22:23
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Every dial gauge will need the sleeve that threads into the port on the pump and attaches to the body of the gauge. Some sleeves are a single piece, some are segmented for use on various engine models. Google image search: VW diesel timing gauge.
I use this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html , with a sleeve.
You'll need all the bits, so you might as well get a kit.
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#38
by
acidtonic
on 07 Dec, 2014 16:53
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Every dial gauge will need the sleeve that threads into the port on the pump and attaches to the body of the gauge. Some sleeves are a single piece, some are segmented for use on various engine models. Google image search: VW diesel timing gauge.
I use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html , with a sleeve.
You'll need all the bits, so you might as well get a kit.
That must be why I was confused then. So I just need to get the adapter then and my gauge can be used. Good to know
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#39
by
acidtonic
on 07 Dec, 2014 17:00
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#40
by
theman53
on 07 Dec, 2014 17:33
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Paint marks scare me, that is not how to time a VW diesel. Please tell me you have it correct and you have looked at the Bentley and vince waldon's how to site?
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#41
by
acidtonic
on 07 Dec, 2014 18:15
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Paint marks scare me, that is not how to time a VW diesel. Please tell me you have it correct and you have looked at the Bentley and vince waldon's how to site?
Yes I actually put those there *after* properly timing it just in case I mess up. I assume that by pretending they aren't there and retiming the engine when I go to put the pump on, they should line back up if I transfer the marks to the new belt. I even verified the flywheel TDC mark through the inspection port.
I'm now trying to figure out what size o-ring the cold-start lever is because I'm certainly not going to spend $80 to buy the full rebuild kit just to use a few O-rings. I'll pull it again if I have to should it still leak from somewhere.
Worst case I'll open it up tomorrow and take the O-ring down to the parts store but I'd much rather just get the part number or correct size to be sure.
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#42
by
theman53
on 07 Dec, 2014 18:41
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The cam belt won't matter. It is infinitely adjustable.
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#43
by
libbydiesel
on 07 Dec, 2014 18:42
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If you did not paint mark the crank sprocket and belt at crank then your paint marks at the pump are misleading and at the cam potentially disastrous.
I used to use two screwdriver/chisels and a punch on the pump shaft to loosen the pump sprocket but a couple years ago I made this bad boy:
I actually had one pump that seized it's vane pump and sheared the key allowing the pump sprocket to rotate on the shaft and in doing so welded the sprocket and shaft together. That puller still pulled it off... with a loud bang...
It consists of 3 coupling nuts, two carriage bolts, one regular hex bolt, two nuts and about an hour if I include the time going to the hardware store. The total on the parts was approx. $15.
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#44
by
acidtonic
on 07 Dec, 2014 19:00
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The cam belt won't matter. It is infinitely adjustable.
I never took the cam sprocket off. I just loosened the tensioner and slipped the belt off from the pump side. Plus the locking plate is there so it can't rotate. Car isn't in gear and has blocks behind the wheels so it's not rolling so the crank isn't going to rotate.
Any ideas on the o-ring I need for the lower left and right side?
