Did I get a bad pump?

[offalot]

I ordered a Landy pump from UK quite some time ago and now that it's winter, I'm starting to put my motor together for my caddy.  I questioned it when I got the pump but now I really have to know. When I rotate the pulley shaft of the mTDI pump, I go about a 3rd rotation then the shaft tightens up and doesn't go any further. The IDI pumps that I am used to spin fully with a little bit of resistance. I am hoping this is a TDI thing and I didn't get a bad pump from overseas. Sorry if this sounds like a total noob question. Just getting used to this new fangled stuff.

By the way, anyone know of what happened to CRSMP5. We were discussing rebuilding the pump at one time, when I came back to the forum, I can't seem to locate him.

[theman53]

He doesn't like the format of this forum any longer, so he opted out. If it is an 11mm pump it should have stiffer springs than the 9mm pump for an idi

[offalot]

Thanks. So I wasn't wanting to force it. Maybe I should try rotating a little harder to get it to go around? I;ll try. unfortunately I'm at work so I'll try it tonight. Just didn't want to hurt anything.
So you're about an hour away from me. I'm in NE Ohio.

[theman53]

I wouldn't "force" it as if something is off it could break but use more force than you would with the 9mm pump.

[libbydiesel]

You really have two options, either have the pump rebuilt or you're going to 'force it' sooner or later, either on the bench or by the timing belt/crank/starter when it is installed.  I usually rebuild each pump I install, but if not going that route, I'd rather spin it over prior to installation than risk tossing the timing belt.  If you decide to spin it over on the bench, clamp it in a vice, put a wrench on the pulley nut and rotate the shaft CW.  You will feel the humps of the camplate.  The camplate hump resistance is a lot more than the VW 1.6 pumps.

[rodpaslow]

Be aware that the 200 LR pump has a lock.  I don't know how it works, but there are videos on you-tube if you search land rover that show it.  It doesn't take much torque to turn over the pump.  When I re-built mine I wanted to make sure all was good - I just put the nut on (wthout the gear) and turned it over.  It wasn't even enough to jam the nut on so I couldn't remove the nut by hand.

If you've done the 1.6 pumps, the only difference I saw was there seemed to be more of a gap between bump.

[offalot]

I will more than likely do this. Don't suppose anyone could get a torque reading, say with a needle type tq wrench as to what kind of force it takes to spin it.   
 Having never been inside a pump, I am a little intimidated on rebuilding it, but I am not against trying if I had good instruction. Any suggestions?

[rodpaslow]

My turbo diesel had a good pictures on rebuilding from start to finish.  I'm sure it you take an hour or so you can probably still find it somewhere on the web.  That's what helped me - I followed it and it was pretty easy to do.  cleaning everything was the hardest part.

[offalot]

OK, I had a chance to go out and play with the pump a little. I was able to rotate it and for the heck of it I put a torque wrench on it to get a reading. Hardly registered on the ft/lb wrench and got about 130 in/lbs. on the smaller one. I would say that is acceptable. I guess I was just expecting constant resistance rather than the loping every 1/3 rotation that I was getting. Now I feel like this was a stupid question but I wanted to be safe. Still might eventually do a rebuild though.

[vanbcguy]

If you look at how these pumps work, the resistance every quarter turn is completely normal. That's the return springs for the injection plunger being compressed. It's critical that it behaves as you are describing - if it does NOT do that then it is broken.

There is not a lot that wears in these pumps. Most "rebuilds" are really just reseals, maybe with a couple new bushings thrown in.

[offalot]

Thanks for the help guys. I feel a bit more comfortable now and will hopefully get this thing together in the near future.
Another question that i didn't want to muddle up the board with: I went to change out the feed unioons on the back from my e pump and noticed they were slightly different. First, the longer m pump were loosely assembled so when I removed them they fell out in several pieces, where the shot unions stayed together as an assembly, cant get them apart by hand. And also the orifices are different, the longer having a triangular pattern and the shorter having just a round orifice. I am probably just being paranoid but I've had it beat into my head how precise these things are and don't want to assume anything. Thanks.

[libbydiesel]

The stock eTDI delivery valves need to be unscrewed to take apart.  The LR delivery valves are all separate pieces.  Either set of delivery valves will work fine as a set.  If you want the lines to fit without bending use the eTDI valves.  If you want to sell the eTDI pump complete then bend the lines to fit the longer valves. 

[offalot]

Gotcha. Just for an easy clean install, I think I'll use the eTDI valves. The ETDi pump is apart anyways,so if I sell it, it will be for parts, so I don't think I'll lose too much throwing the rover valves in there with it. Thanks again.