AAZ MK1 Swap Belt Issue - Diesel Swaps - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• AAZ MK1 Swap Belt Issue by Sillycaddy on 07 Nov, 2014 17:18
• Hey guys,
  
  I am in the midst of swapping an AAZ in to my MK1 caddy. One issue that has me stumped is the serpentine / v-belt configuration the AAZ has. For my application, I do not need A/C or power steering but but the water-pump is run by the v-belt that runs the PS pump and the alternator is run by the belt that runs the compressor. I took all the old v-belt stuff off my old 1.6d engine including the alt., is there any way to adapt the belt setup on to the AAZ? Is there a better option? I have searched a bit and come to find certain AAZ components are used for serp. belt conversions on other dubs but I'm not having any luck as to what other options I have.
  
  Thanks in advance,
• #1 by vanbcguy on 08 Nov, 2014 14:04
• I personally would advise you to keep the serp belt.  Look for an ABA or VR6 water pump pulley - it is driven off the serpentine belt rather than the V-belt.  Since a picture is worth 1,000 words:
  
  
  
  Pulley: 028 121 031E
  Belt: Gates K060408HD
  
  It's SO easy to deal with a single serpentine belt with no v-belt.  All you need is a big crescent wrench on the tensioner arm and bingo, belt removed or installed in all of a minute.
  
  If you do go this route it is HIGHLY recommended that you upgrade your alternator pulley to the 'clutched' version they used on all the TDIs.  The AAZ was the first VW diesel with a serpentine belt - there were some issues relating to the crank nose caused by the mass of the alternator.  Search 'AAZ crank nose' on here and you'll find lots of threads about it.  The AHU alternator pulley fixes most of the cause of the problem.
• #2 by RabbitJockey on 10 Nov, 2014 08:50
• i'm doing the same swap but keeping ac, and i am just using all the mk1 accessories, i had to cut the injection pump bracket down a little bit, and also cut one piece that holds the ac bracket to the injection pump bracket, but everything basically bolts straight together.  if you're not running ac i suggest doing like vanbcguy said, and also finding a clutched alternator, all of the early serpentine belted cars had issues with the crank nose, like the corrado g60.  also that pulley is not found on abas, only vr6's, aba had a very similar setup to the aaz.  if you're running the aaz stuff you don't have to worry about cutting anything
• #3 by GEE-BEE on 11 Nov, 2014 14:41
• There are two versions for the aaz...
  
  alternator bracket..
  
  GB
• #4 by DogDiesel on 14 Nov, 2014 15:24
• BEE GEE,
  
  Unless you have tons of money to spend, if it was me, I'd get a V-pulley with bearing from my tractor supply or small engine repair, fabricate a bracket and run the V-belt minus PS.
  
  I tried the V belt to drive my alternator for years, 1.6TD setup with AC, (even with 1.9 AAZ) and my final solution was a reverse pulley mounted to the mounting bolt.  used the OEM belt, alternator charging was perfect, and belts were holding up well. 
  
  Converted to Serpentine.  Serpentine is best.  I never look back.
  
  But I really have to tell you, keep the PS pump, get a rack off one of the gassers, with shaft to steering and never look back.  I have been spoiled by power steering on my Caddy, and if there is a discernable loss off engine power, I cannot tell it.
  
  I have been running PS on my Caddy since about 2004.  Lots of miles, putting the second tie rod assy ends on, and rack has no wear.  Cannot recommend PS enough.
  
  Wayne
• #5 by Sillycaddy on 14 Nov, 2014 15:34
• Quote from: vanbcguy on 08 Nov, 2014 14:04

  I personally would advise you to keep the serp belt.  Look for an ABA or VR6 water pump pulley - it is driven off the serpentine belt rather than the V-belt.  Since a picture is worth 1,000 words:
  
  
  
  Pulley: 028 121 031E
  Belt: Gates K060408HD
  
  It's SO easy to deal with a single serpentine belt with no v-belt.  All you need is a big crescent wrench on the tensioner arm and bingo, belt removed or installed in all of a minute.
  
  If you do go this route it is HIGHLY recommended that you upgrade your alternator pulley to the 'clutched' version they used on all the TDIs.  The AAZ was the first VW diesel with a serpentine belt - there were some issues relating to the crank nose caused by the mass of the alternator.  Search 'AAZ crank nose' on here and you'll find lots of threads about it.  The AHU alternator pulley fixes most of the cause of the problem.
  

  Picture doesn't seem to be working but I think i get the idea. If its that easy to convert, it seems like a no brainer. ABAs are very prevalent in the junkyards around here.
  
  Thanks guys.
• #6 by vanbcguy on 14 Nov, 2014 16:22
• Fixed the picture...
  
  
• #7 by Sillycaddy on 22 Nov, 2014 02:09
• Thanks for the picture. I got the water pump at the junkyard and ordered a clutched alt pulley a few days ago, I just need to pick up a belt.
  
  
  What are you running for an oil  return line? I am running a T-3 off a 1.6TD, I am having a hard time finding a fitting for the back of the block. I ordered an 18mm to -10an but  after measuring it with my caliper I believe they must have sent a 20mm instead. I then ordered a 16mm to -10 an and its too small.
• #8 by vanbcguy on 22 Nov, 2014 12:10
• I got a universal oil return from Darkside Development, it's a kit with all the bits and an extra long hose. You cut it to length.
• #9 by RabbitJockey on 24 Nov, 2014 10:08
• i am also going to run a t3(looks stock but much bigger than the stock vw t3) so i  cut the crimp and hose off the stock k14 banjo fitting in the back of the block, it is 1/2" od so a 1/2" id hose will fit right on with a hose clamp, then i will use one of these drain adapters with a 1/2" barb. easy peezy.  hopefully 1/2" is big enough.  a little bit of material needs to be ground off the intake manifold too so that the compressor will clear.
• #10 by Sillycaddy on 25 Nov, 2014 14:33
• I am not a fan of running barbed fittings for oil returns, they always seem to leak.
  Anyway, the fitting is an 18mm 1.5 thread, I ordered one from ebay but they sent me a 20mm. So, I figured it must be a 16mm, bought one of those and it was too small, re-ordered a18mm and it fits perfectly. Now all I need is a -10am oil drain kit and ill be set.
  
  I have already modded the intake manifold to clear the compressor.
  
  Thanks for the help guys, now I just have to se if I remember how all this *** goes back together
  
  One last question, When swapping the timing belt do I need to reset the injection timing? I am literally just puling one belt off and putting it back in place. I have read vince waldons tutorial, but that seems more applicable for a motor rebuild or a pump replacement.
• #11 by libbydiesel on 25 Nov, 2014 15:17
• That's weird.  I've run barbed fittings on several oil returns and have done so specifically because they don't leak or at least are much less prone to leakage than the aluminum AN fittings.
• #12 by Sillycaddy on 25 Nov, 2014 15:33
• To each their own, I suppose.
• #13 by RabbitJockey on 25 Nov, 2014 19:44
• yes atleast check pump timing, they almost always need to be adjusted. a slight difference in belt tension can effect timing, remember that pump timing is measured in a fraction of a mm
• #14 by Sillycaddy on 25 Nov, 2014 20:17
• Sounds good, thanks again for the replies!