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#45
by
Jetmugg
on 19 Sep, 2014 05:16
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When I dyno'ed mine, they confirmed my tach readings (driven from W terminal on alternator) with the roller speed via gear ratio and tire size, as Alcaid mentioned.
I wonder if many dyno shops are hesitant to let diesels run due to the fairly large volume of black smoke. Not all dyno facilities are equipped to deal with the black plume....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NYikOly9S0&list=UUtJ8BFry5_gAIhYO8EhDbGg 
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#46
by
theman53
on 19 Sep, 2014 22:56
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Just think what you could have ran if you found those head light covers
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#47
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 21 Sep, 2014 04:08
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The oil pressure was rock solid through the runs. I installed a low oil pressure light (big red light) to warn if pressure dropped below 20 psi.
I was surprised to see the light come on during the coast-down at the far end of the track, however (engine rpm's around 1,000 or less). Right now, I'm attributing that to hot oil temps after running WOT for 3 miles. That's the only time I saw any oil issues. I'm not even convinced that the previous problems were real - more and more I am thinking that there may have been an electrical issue with the OP sender.
the oil pressure light is where you shift light would go right? can also be a place for an oil light, duhh obviously. the low light at decel isnt a problem if your getting the pressure at the head; on mine im at about 12-15psi at hot idle; so under 20psi at decel/idle, hot, at head wouldnt be a problem.(of course im running a lighter oil than you, but still).
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#48
by
RustyCaddy
on 21 Sep, 2014 12:14
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The reason they say no to diesels is there is no way to get a tach signal.
Donning my flame suit...a VW1324 adapter with a tach/dwell might work if a shop would run that.
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#49
by
libbydiesel
on 21 Sep, 2014 13:11
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A clamp-on piezo adapter will work on pretty much any diesel that doesn't already have ECU tach output.
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#50
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 21 Sep, 2014 14:03
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arent the ecu tach read from the alternator though?
its not like there isnt anyway to get a tach reading; in a gas you can standard get it reliably from coil/spark; in a diesel the crank is going to be the most accurate. a spark is an extraterrestrial thing for us, so it makes no difference to me/theres no spark/.
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#51
by
Jetmugg
on 21 Sep, 2014 14:49
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The oil pressure was rock solid through the runs. I installed a low oil pressure light (big red light) to warn if pressure dropped below 20 psi.
I was surprised to see the light come on during the coast-down at the far end of the track, however (engine rpm's around 1,000 or less). Right now, I'm attributing that to hot oil temps after running WOT for 3 miles. That's the only time I saw any oil issues. I'm not even convinced that the previous problems were real - more and more I am thinking that there may have been an electrical issue with the OP sender.
the oil pressure light is where you shift light would go right? can also be a place for an oil light, duhh obviously. the low light at decel isnt a problem if your getting the pressure at the head; on mine im at about 12-15psi at hot idle; so under 20psi at decel/idle, hot, at head wouldnt be a problem.(of course im running a lighter oil than you, but still).
Thanks for the vote of confidence. Yes, the OP light is the big red light next to the tach. If there was going to be a sudden loss of pressure at speed, I wanted to see it RIGHT NOW!
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#52
by
RustyCaddy
on 21 Sep, 2014 15:09
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in a diesel the crank is going to be the most accurate.
The VW1324 adapter reads the engine vibration somehow to give a RPM signal to a tach/dwell meter...if as accurate as the other methods idunno?
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#53
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 21 Sep, 2014 16:35
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Thanks for the vote of confidence. Yes, the OP light is the big red light next to the tach. If there was going to be a sudden loss of pressure at speed, I wanted to see it RIGHT NOW!
not a bad spot for a Big Red Light; heheh.
so what grade oil did you decide to run; i know amsoil has a few oils; i do believe all are synthetic. from 5w-30 (best oil for normal use), 5w-40, they have a 10w-30 and a 15w-40 syn. iirc. gear oil; and grease for wheel bearings and etc. too.
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#54
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 22 Sep, 2014 05:18
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watching the whole video, and you say light was set at 20psi, oil pressure gauge looks normal for oil pressure drop from hi-revs to idle. and isnt the oil pressure sender at the head(vw) set at under 3psi? looks fine.
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#55
by
Jetmugg
on 22 Sep, 2014 05:28
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[/quote]
not a bad spot for a Big Red Light; heheh.
so what grade oil did you decide to run; i know amsoil has a few oils; i do believe all are synthetic. from 5w-30 (best oil for normal use), 5w-40, they have a 10w-30 and a 15w-40 syn. iirc. gear oil; and grease for wheel bearings and etc. too.
[/quote]
One of my sponsors (Bauman Oil -
www.baumanoil.com) provided the lubricants for my truck. I am running Mobil 1 15W-50 in the engine.
Mobil 1 synthetic grease in wheel bearings, and Penzoil syncromesh in the transaxle.
Steve.
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#56
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 22 Sep, 2014 05:33
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get oil warm at the least before a run, its thick and engine will run better; but i do know a cold engine will run faster, but i prefer to run/race my motors at normal heat, more consistant and things are going smoother at normal heat. you need a couple of extra bags of ice for cooling thingie.
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#57
by
Jetmugg
on 22 Sep, 2014 08:13
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Yep, I try to warm it up without getting the water too hot. Water temps come up before the oil gets hot.
On one of my runs, the water temp hit 240F
A bigger radiator may be in my future.
Steve.
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#58
by
Gizmoman
on 23 Sep, 2014 06:30
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Big kudos to you Steve!!!
An achievement done, and gracefully as well.
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#59
by
Jetmugg
on 23 Sep, 2014 07:45
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Thank you, Gizmo.
Just for fun, here's one of my favorite photos from the event. Nothing fancy, taken with an iPhone, but I like the image...
For anyone interested in hot-rodding, Bonneville is one of those "lifetime" locations that is beyond description.