Vanagon Syncro AAZ on a 215mm clutch

[Doka Todd]

Hi all,

The head gasket failed on the 1.6TD JX in my syncro doka, so I'm building up an AAZ as a replacement.  The JX has a 215mm clutch, and I'm wondering if it will be sufficient.  I'm not planning on going crazy with the power, frankly the transmissions in these things scares the bejezus out of me and I don't have the budget of be fixing broken transmission parts. 

As of now, the plan is to run a K14 in the 10-12 psi range, with Giles injectors and eventually a Giles pump.  I'm thinking I won't have issue with this on a the JX clutch, but thought I would put it to the people smarter than me on these engines.

[libbydiesel]

JX clutch will be fine.  It won't slip on an AAZ unless you're running a lot more boost than that.

[Doka Todd]

Thanks Libby,

Do you or anyone else know of a north american equivalent of the JX clutch?  ETKA shows the pressure plate and disc as T2 only.

[libbydiesel]

All the stock diesel vanagons used the same clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel.   The JX clutch is the same as the '82/'83 1.6 non-turbo diesel vanagon offered in the US.

[Doka Todd]

Thank you again, sir.

Continuing to build up the AAZ.  Should have everything close to together next weekend.  I'm surprised at the prices for the diesel clutch parts.  If I can find a good deal on a G60 flywheel I'll probably come close to even when you compare the prices of the diesel parts to the VR6 pressure plate and the 228mm clutch disc.

[Doka Todd]

So I wound up getting a G60 flyhweel set up for the right price.  I'm putting it all back together and am wonder what people do with the sheet metal cover bewteen the bellhousing and engine.  My truck is a factory diesel with the diesel syncro transmission, and vents out the bottom at around the 5 o clock position.  The shape of the cover at the vent directly interferes with the back of the flywheel.

[libbydiesel]

You may already know this, but if going with the G60 flywheel, TDI pressure plate and 228mm disc you will need to bend the two pressure plate tabs over, clearance several places in the bell housing and grind the nose of the starter slightly.

WRT the dust plate, you can either leave it off, trim the existing one or make one out of flat sheet metal just goes around the seal carrier and the oil pan.  My choice has been to make them from flat steel.  You can print out the attached PDFs on card stock, making sure that the scale factor is 100% (hopefully your printer alignment is good...).  Then cut them out, line up the reference lines and cut out of flat steel (side of a washer or range...).  If you cut at the horizontal line so that it is two plates, you can remove the bottom half of the plate with the oil pan without dropping the trans.  If you aren't modifying the flywheel to access the two pan bolts that are stuck behind it, you will need to trop the trans anyway, so don't bother cutting the plate into two parts.

[Doka Todd]

thanks.  I opted to trim the the JX plate, but it has a formed bulge all the way around what would be the perimeter of the jx flywheel that will not allow it to fit. 

I used the aaz plate, but I'm missing the small filler plate that bolts in so will have to track one down.

I was aware of the tabs on the VR6 flywheel, but I bought the setup used from another vanagon guy that already trimmed them off.

Engine is on the bench pretty much ready to go in.  I'll do some cleanup and scrubbing in the engine bay and clean the bellhousing of the oil from the failed main of the JX, then in she goes.  With any luck I'll get it back to life some time this week.  Just have to verify boost/vac lines and generally dot the I's and cross the T's. 

I had to set my timing belt by a mark I made using a dial indicator for TDC before the head went on because I didn't have a flywheel/bellhousing reference, so that will have to be verified after install as well.

[libbydiesel]

The pressure plate will rub on the bell housing in several places and you will need to grind the bell housing in order for it to work.  Expect at least a couple trips, probably several, in and out with mating the engine to trans.  You might find it easier to pull the bell housing, bolt it to the engine, spin the engine by hand and grind where it interferes rather than try to install the engine, and then remove it to grind the bell housing. 

[Doka Todd]

Really?  This I didn't know.  Thanks for the heads up, I guess my day tomorrow will be a little bit different.  In poking around looking at this swap, I don't think I've seen that mentioned anywhere.

[libbydiesel]

I've seen a couple slightly different bell housing castings.  One barely rubs in a couple places and might be able to 'self-machine' without issue.  The other requires grinding or the crank won't turn.  Take care with the diesel starter nose also.  It will rub on the side of the flywheel if you don't grind it down a little. 

[Doka Todd]

A quick Google search would indicate I really didn't research this very hard  . I'm really not into the self machining approach, I'm a machinist by trade so where would that leave me  .
I have yet to get my hands dirty with a Vanagon transmission, I think doing the bell housing on the bench is the best way forward so I guess it's time to learn how to take these apart.

[libbydiesel]

Removing the bell housing is quite easy.  There are a few bolts inside the bell and a few below and then it pops off and pops back on.  Be sure to drain the trans first.  You'll need to replace the input shaft seal afterward.  While it is apart, be sure to check that the oil slinger is still a press fit in the bell housing.  If not, you will be re-doing your clutch soon.  I've installed several bell housings without a gasket and just making sure the mating surface is clean and dry and using RTV and have had no leaks that way.

[Doka Todd]

Not sure what part of the world your in but you sir have beers (or equivilant) coming your way.  I am grateful for the time you take to keep myself and everyone around here educated and informed.  My background is manufacturing and engineering mostly in regard to modern VW product, if there is ever an opportunity to reciprocate I hope I can.

Seal is in local inventory so out the bellhousing comes.

[Doka Todd]

it's funny that you should mention the oil slinger 



Ugh.  Need to find parts and assess damage on the housing and shaft I guess.  Anyone have a part # or direction for a replacment?  It's not clear to me in ETKA which part this is.