...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
Well a bus oil filter off a 2.0 fits the housing... Its half as tall, but just as fat... Also... Proper v6 filter is too... Its short... We put diesel ones on though... I agree on you oil temp... Once mine hits 100c it drops quiet fast... But same token, my coolent starts to spike up over 90c... And to keep pushing oil temp up raises coolent more... So think about water temps... Add a 2nd sensor, a 2way toggle switch, use your oil temp gauge for both by flipping switch... See if you can load the cooling system down more first... I have 80c stats in my cars i see this on... The one with 72c stat a gasser, detonates by 100c The water temp gauge will reflect the stat temp once up to temp... Normal load... You can see in the needle when it goes between open and closed... Ive found stock oil cooler to be abt 15c max then both increase the same...
I used an air to air and have no issues. Only been using it for 50,000 miles or so, but no leaks or issues of any kind. Maybe adding an extra quart at rebuild oil change, but you have an extra quart to heat up. I run right at 180-215f depending on the load and day. Never seen it go over 220f yet. Just giving you the perspective of something that works even if you don't want to use it.
Old non bubble block 1.6 with stock wp housings have perfect spot to tap n drill sensor.. So it reads lowest coolent point with stat open or close... Tdi housing and block lack room... Bbobs i welded a nut to the metal coolent pipe... I would not trust using gp hole... Unless sensor is far nuff in to flowpast the tip of sensor... It will not be accurate... Been doing toggle switch idea for my whole driving life... Added it to my 1st car and all since... You must use a plain non light style switch... The bulb or led will make it not work right... And yes its a tow or load issue at speed... Not normal condition issue.... But till you see the true #s you not seeing how it affects water
Some numbers... 500 mile load of crap trip... Kubvan, 98 tdi jetta 5 speed... 20w50 oil... 70-80f temps... Gauges... Vdo... Sensors stock vdo kinds... Start up... Tach = 4000 rpm which is 71.5 mph via gps in 5th gear... 195 50 15 kuhmos... You will have to math out true rpm... 120 psi and under 50c on oil and water70 psi 70c water and under that on coolent50 psi 80c and 80c32ish psi 90c and 80c on water... Egt 800fWhere things get spooky... 25psi, 95c 85c on water.... Egt 800f.... 22psi... 100c 90c egt 1000f.... Say pulling load up hill with wind... But i know 100% that i have a bering issue due to oil starvation and oil foaming...
I've got the water-to-oil cooler that's stock on the 3.6-3.2L Touareg, Audi Q7, 3.2 Audi TT, etc: VW 038117021B, rotated 90 degrees CCW to clear the block. I modded the front engine mount to clear the stock heater hardpipe on my Mk1 Jetta.The cooler is on a mostly stock 1.6TD that has the Garrett T3 replaced with a VNT-15 with manual linkage vane control (boost and throttle position). Oil temps are now within 10 degrees F of water temps, after warmup- no matter how hard its run, but a Mk1 Jetta is light. The oil temp is measured at the pan drain and water temp at the back of the head (stock). Oil filter change is a B#%^ for clearance with the core support...I need to try the 2.0L bus filter!!