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#15
by
mtrans
on 15 Jul, 2014 15:33
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Nice setup ORCoaster.On VVO you need that.
I just use one pressure gauge 0-2 bar to test my coalant sistem,for a week only.Best
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#16
by
shorttimer
on 15 Jul, 2014 16:01
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I don't know the chemistry for brake fluid, however what we do know: is brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it rapidly attracts/absorbs water. And it also has to be good for rubber parts because the cups inside the MC are rubber & they practically last forever if taken care of. So washing with soapy water would be the right thing to do, chased by an ample amount of compressed air & THOROUGHLY dried, so it does not contaminate the fresh brake fluid with residual moisture.
I once knew a guy who used brake fluid as a tire dressing & his tires looked great. He said it had to dry somewhat after application so it wouldn't fling itself on the paint around the wheel wells.
Because it is so hygroscopic, I usually tape a bunch of desiccant packs around an open container lid, before putting it into a heavy ziplock bag to reduce the chance of water contamination. I think it works well.
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#17
by
sgnimj96
on 15 Jul, 2014 21:16
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I had a mk1 jetta master cylinder leak a lot of fluid into the booster (because I kept topping off the MC not knowing what the problem was). With the MC off I siphoned out the brake fluid from the booster, then sprayed and filled it with water a few times to rinse the brake fluid out. I never took the booster off so it was a pain to siphon it out so many times; put on a new MC and never had a problem (had the car for about 5 years after that)
Brake fluid is easily rinsed off with water
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#18
by
Rabbit79
on 16 Jul, 2014 13:32
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Thanks for all the help on the booster guys. That seems to have come out ok..... but.... this situation has just gone from bad to worse..... Got the new master cylinder on yesterday, and while bleeding the brakes I couldn't get any fluid back to the left rear. I'm like WTF?!?! Upon further investigation, I pull up the floor mat on the drivers side to see the carpet is a bit wet.... Ugh, not good... pull up the carpet and sure enough there's a pool of brake fluid on the floor. Turns out I also punched a little pinhole in the hard line that goes back to the left rear, right behind the clutch pedal. Oh joy!!! Thanks VW for running those inside the passenger cabin. I'm not sure if that hard line is one piece all the way to the back as I haven't pulled up all the carpet yet. That thing has got so many bends in it I don't see how they could have gotten it in there in one piece, but I'll have to see once I get the carpet up. Looks like the padding soaked up most of the fluid and the carpet isn't too bad, which is good because that padding is a lot easier to replace. For now it looks like I'm going to have to yard out the front half of the carpet and get it cleaned, strip down the floor pan and re-paint it, and get the brake line fixed. I found a kit for splicing in new brake line, so it looks like that is at least fixable without having to try and fish a whole new line in there (even if I could find one for a 79 Rabbit). Looks like I'm destined for some fun times. YEE-HA!!!!
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#19
by
ORCoaster
on 16 Jul, 2014 15:24
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Your luck runneth over, In a bad sort of way. I hate to think what my situation is in this manner. I will have time to look this weekend if it don't rain.
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#20
by
fatmobile
on 16 Jul, 2014 17:06
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I don't know if you've ever messed with brake line before but the "easybend" stuff is real easy to work with and hard to kink.
Making the bubble flares is the hard part.
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#21
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 16 Jul, 2014 17:11
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Nice set up OR! every mans dream
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#22
by
Rabbit79
on 16 Jul, 2014 17:57
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I don't know if you've ever messed with brake line before but the "easybend" stuff is real easy to work with and hard to kink.
Making the bubble flares is the hard part.
I'll keep that in mind Fatmobile. There's a union in the brake line right there by the B pillar, so if I could find an OEM line it doesn't look like it will be super hard to replace. Of course one of the pitfalls of owning a 35 year old car is it's getting harder and harder to find parts for it. I think most of the work here is going to be getting the floor pan cleaned up, the paint is all peeled up and it's quite a mess.
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#23
by
mtrans
on 21 Jul, 2014 11:59
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To go forward on this
Does anybody know which range of vacuum is between vac pump and booster?
Can anyone verify info I get,that pressure after MC is from 5-8 bar.
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#24
by
ORCoaster
on 21 Jul, 2014 21:17
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I ran a Vac gauge on the booster for awhile thinking it was my problem with low brake pedal. I was able to pull a 20 lb vac on it without a problem. A few quick brake pedals and it would drop to 10 but always came back real quick. I then replace the MC and that was in Sept. This weekend I yanked that one off and found my problem of the rear reservoir draining was due to bad seals on the rebuild. OReallys got that one back and I get another tomorrow.
I don't know about the pressure after MC, Where are you measuring? Pressure or Vacuum? What are we doing here?
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#25
by
mtrans
on 22 Jul, 2014 07:31
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Thx
I also change MC and didn`t get good brake,I have it but something like booster or one way valve on him not working.You guess,I change booster one way valve and same thing again???
SO I think to find if VAC pump work on spec,or change booster or MC from shop is b......
ps.I was in hydraulic shop and gay that work there say that oil after MC is in range 5-8 bar.
I was thinking that is more,gremlin in my Fiat.
Best
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#26
by
mtrans
on 22 Jul, 2014 15:25
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#27
by
ORCoaster
on 22 Jul, 2014 23:13
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converters never lie But liars convert.
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#28
by
TylerDurden
on 23 Jul, 2014 08:56
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#29
by
smutts
on 23 Jul, 2014 16:27
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convert bar to psi multiply by 14.5.
I will just join the wash with water consensus. But finish with tipping out the water, add methylated spirits, (denatured alcohol?) and tip out, repeat a couple oif times. Flammable so if you die don't bother suing as I am boracic lint.
