-
Pump rust
by
jimfoo
on 09 Aug, 2014 22:52
-
After years of putting it off, I finally broke open my IP to put in my modified control lever, timing piston and pin. The pump had been sitting years, with fuel in it, but I figured I'm in a dry climate, it would be fine. It has some surface rust in places that aren't critical wear spots, so do I need to somehow clean it off, or could it be run as is? I just don't know if microscopic pieces could come off and maybe clog an injector or something? If it should be cleaned, what is the best way?
-
#1
by
theman53
on 10 Aug, 2014 10:13
-
Best way would be to bust it all down in pieces and have it ultra sonic cleaned. Next to that, I would say wire wheel and brake cleaner for stuff you probably have at home.
-
#2
by
jimfoo
on 10 Aug, 2014 11:20
-
I ended up using Rust Out/water mixture and a variety of brushes to get inside the pump as I didn't want to remove the shaft since I don't have seals for it, and the gear on the end was rusty as well. While not perfect, it looks tons better. I used the Rust Out and a brass brush on what I could get to, and all that cleaned up really well. Now to see if I remember how to assemble it all, since it's been a while. I seem to remember using mig wire to hold the control lever springs in place, but don't remember what I did about the plunger springs.
-
#3
by
jimfoo
on 10 Aug, 2014 11:51
-
Changed my mind since I must have gotten a little water in the pump part, and it started getting harder to turn. Wire brush time for all the rust in there as well. I don't want problems down the road!
-
#4
by
jimfoo
on 10 Aug, 2014 23:24
-
What a pain, rust on everything, but luckily not heavy. Everything cleaned up good with a flex shaft tool and wire wheels. Unfortunately I decided to replace the inner shaft bushing as I had two new ones. I didn't do the front, as I didn't have a new seal. I pounded the rear bushing out without too much problem, and then found the new one was too small inside by maybe 1/2 mm. So after a long time with sandpaper, and a drill with sandpaper, I finally got it to fit the shaft fairly well. Then when I went to put it in, I found the outside was too big.
I got it down to where it seemed about the same outer diameter. Then I cooled it in the freezer, and heated the IP housing with a hair dryer, hoping to increase clearance. It was a really tight fit. I put it in with the shaft, then found the shaft was jammed in it once I got it seated. So I had to pound the shaft back out, then sand the inside again, until it fit again. I am hoping I got all the grit out!! Got the rest of the pump assembled, and tried something new for holding the control level springs in place, blobs of vaseline, which worked out rather well. Hopefully I won't have too much adjustments once I get the engine back together and in the car. I modified the control lever, the timing piston, and pin.
-
#5
by
jimfoo
on 10 Aug, 2014 23:28
-
On a related note, what is the best way to store an IP long term, empty the diesel and pour oil in it somehow?
-
#6
by
burn_your_money
on 22 Aug, 2014 08:01
-
For future reference, a lot of fuel shops will install and ream the bushings for $20-$40. Money well spent for a job done right IMO.
-
#7
by
TylerDurden
on 23 Aug, 2014 08:27
-
On a related note, what is the best way to store an IP long term, empty the diesel and pour oil in it somehow?
I fill em with ATF, using a mighty-vac to draw the fluid in.
I rekon fuel is ok, but a bit more smelly.
-
#8
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 23 Aug, 2014 09:37
-
I ended up using Rust Out/water mixture and a variety of brushes to get inside the pump as I didn't want to remove the shaft since I don't have seals for it, and the gear on the end was rusty as well. While not perfect, it looks tons better. I used the Rust Out and a brass brush on what I could get to, and all that cleaned up really well. Now to see if I remember how to assemble it all, since it's been a while. I seem to remember using mig wire to hold the control lever springs in place, but don't remember what I did about the plunger springs.
Why did you use a water based cleaner inside the pump? All bearing surfaces are chrome plated and should not rust. Everthing else is plated and not prone to rust. Do you have pics? Curious what it looks like and how bad it is.
-
#9
by
mtrans
on 23 Aug, 2014 17:25
-
Bad WVO can look like rust?
-
#10
by
jimfoo
on 29 Sep, 2014 20:47
-
Bearing surfaces didn't rust, just most everything else. Everything else didn't look plated at all, even way back when the pump was fine. Sorry, no pics this time. It had no WVO, just regular Diesel.