10mm pump with 11mm head hybrid questions - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• 10mm pump with 11mm head hybrid questions by AdrianD on 19 Jun, 2014 22:30
• Hello everyone,
  
  Symptoms of my Jeep point to the fact that the pump head is warn (very hard to start when hot, has gradually gotten worse over the time of a year). The pump is a mechanical VE, 0460404078 VE L 553.
  Since it's a 10mm head and I want more power, I thought about using an 11mm head. But the only one I found which rotates in the correct direction is an electronically governed VE, 0460414992 VE L 580
  
  Has anyone ever made such a concoction? Pump head from an electronic pump in a mechanical pump? I know people out there make mTDI pumps with larger heads but I don't know if the heads come from mechanical or electronically governed pumps
  
  Any help would me much appreciated
• #1 by AdrianD on 19 Jun, 2014 23:10
• Well, I found this topic:
  http://www.nosmokenopoke.com/forum/showthread.php?10578-Bosch-VP37-11mm-pump-(038-130-107J-and-0460-414-987)
  
  The guy is using a 12mm head from a mechanically governed pump in a 10mm, electronically governed pump. So I assume my idea would work. I just need to buy a pump and start the whole process.
• #2 by Renax on 20 Jun, 2014 03:21
• I have a 10mm TDi head in my 9mm mech pump. No problem...
  Most 10/11mm heads comes from electronic pumps...
  
  Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk
  
  
• #3 by AdrianD on 20 Jun, 2014 04:24
• Sweet
  It's on then, I need to find a good Rover 11mm pump (correct rotation) and swap the head. I've been reading and reading all day today.
  
  Here is a nice listing of pumps (note, VE is selected):
  http://www.dieselevante.it/fuelpumps/index.asp?p1=BOSCH&p2=VE
  
  That's where I got my info and when searching for the part number I need, 0460414992 VE L 580, I found some pumps for sale, claiming to fit these cars:
  
  Bosch 0460 414 992
  Rover ERR6381
  Honda 16300-P5T-G00
  
  Fits
  Rover 220, 25, 420,45,620 all 2.0 eng no 20 T2N
  1995 - 2005
  
  Honda Accord, Civic 1995 - 2003 eng no 20T2N
  
• #4 by Toby on 20 Jun, 2014 23:56
• It is VERY unlikely that the pump head is warn. Unless it had been FODed which is hard to do if you have any kind of filter on it. I have seen pumps that were really crusty inside that still had a tight piston. Most likely you have an air leak in your pump. As the temperature goes up and viscosity of the fuel goes down the problem becomes more severe. I fought this problem on a TDI which would not start if the temperature was in the 90s. In the '60 it started well cold but barely at all hot.
  
  Try pulling a vacuum on the pump before you get too deep into things. The easy way is to pinch the IN/OUT lines off and put your hand  vacuum pump on the small nipple on the OUT banjo. Mine would not hold vacuum, but never leaked a drop of fuel. I resealed everything that I could get at with the pump on the car to no avail. Pulled it off and did the bottom ones and then it held vacuum and starts every time.
  .
• #5 by AdrianD on 22 Jun, 2014 22:07
• Hmm, I never thought about it. The car has 110k miles and in the last 30k after I bought it I had 2 instances when it hesitated at full power (bad filter). But like yours, it doesn't leak. Time to find a vacuum gauge and vacuum pump
  My backhoe behaves similarly. Would be cool if a reseal will fix it.
  
  Another symptom is that mpg's dropped a bit.
  
  My searches brought me to another interesting topic, pump assembly with detailed pics:
  http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6694&sid=c509cec7550393746100cf845b066c5f
  Maybe it's helpful to somebody else too
  
  FOD? What does that stand for?
• #6 by vanbcguy on 23 Jun, 2014 15:19
• FOD = Foreign Object Damage
  
  Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
  
  
• #7 by Dino on 18 Jun, 2019 09:51
• Hello.
  
  

  Quote from: AdrianD on 20 Jun, 2014 04:24

  Sweet
  It's on then, I need to find a good Rover 11mm pump (correct rotation) and swap the head. I've been reading and reading all day today.
  
  Here is a nice listing of pumps (note, VE is selected):
  http://www.dieselevante.it/fuelpumps/index.asp?p1=BOSCH&p2=VE
  
  That's where I got my info and when searching for the part number I need, 0460414992 VE L 580, I found some pumps for sale, claiming to fit these cars:
  
  Bosch 0460 414 992
  Rover ERR6381
  Honda 16300-P5T-G00
  
  Fits
  Rover 220, 25, 420,45,620 all 2.0 eng no 20 T2N
  1995 - 2005
  
  Honda Accord, Civic 1995 - 2003 eng no 20T2N
  

  
  Thank you. I'll use to find pumps numbers.
  
• #8 by theman53 on 08 Aug, 2019 06:25
• You need to watch the K and KA values when you swap, but other than that you can put the pieces together. See the FAQ as this was kind of covered.
  
  EDIT: I used to have a sticky with this info, I do not know why it is gone...
  
  Holy cow, just got this message on facebook...performance pump knowledge here. Advance curve is part but this is huge. Came from Goren the guy who built Jetmugg's record holding pump in the 1.5 land speed truck...
  You have K and KF value. KF is when springs are unloaded usually 5-6mm. KF is kolben feder ib german. Piston spring. K is the value that you set with the shim under the plunger. When pump is mounted usually you have 3,6mm K at Bottom. But different lift calls for different K. Often you get it in testplan. For performance i use To set at top lift - 0.2-0.4 mm
  
  and more...
  
  KF is springs unloaded. Rotor out of pump. I set 0.2-0.4 at top lift and then K is what it is. For example if you have 2,8mm lift K is 3.0-3.2. Follow me?
  
  
  and now even more info...
  
  I put a shim in. Put rotor in an take pump To top lift. Mesaure from plan To plunger under the 3 size plug. If i get for example 0.7 mm i increase the shim with 0.3-0.5 mm