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#60
by
Renax
on 18 Jun, 2014 14:59
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Well, if i where you i'd claim my money back and get another engine. Just basic used stock engine with 200k miles on it is better than what you got...
As vanbcguy says: these engines rarely has bottom end problems, and as you already? ordered a new head a good used engine block would complete the build...
If you want to rebuild the whole bottom end its better to start with one that hasn't been put together by someone you know don't check his work...
Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk
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#61
by
zuhandenheit
on 18 Jun, 2014 16:25
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Well, I placed the head order on hold while I think this through.
I also sent a long message to the seller. It's been almost three years since I bought it - I had other projects, moved, and etc. - so I can't expect much. He's still active around here, though.
I'm really surprised - he was solid to deal with. For instance, he repaid a delivery charge when it was first sent to the wrong local address. He was really helpful and seemed genuinely concerned. Anyway, I'd like to give him the benefit of the doubt, and I hope that there were some honest mistakes on his part.
Rather than buy the head and try to sort the bottom end, I'm thinking about buying Jagerauto's motor:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34779.0I should be able to still use some of my parts (hopefully the IP for instance). I could then take my time trying to make something of my pile of junk motor, or part it out.
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#62
by
zuhandenheit
on 21 Jun, 2014 09:37
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I'm buying Jagerauto's engine. My old one is completely torn down. I might take the block to a machinist and ask to get the bores checked out. Eventually I'll probably rebuild it.
I don't know what the hell to do with the head and its mismatched cam caps. Maybe I'll try to get it line bored . . . Or I'll sell it as parts. It's a shame that the whole casting may be scrap just because the seller didn't give me the right caps.
In any case, I've got lots of parts that I'll be listing for sale here soon - manifolds and maybe a turbo, possibly an IP, and etc., etc.,
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#63
by
Gizmoman
on 22 Jun, 2014 05:29
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. . .I'm buying Jagerauto's engine.
Probably a good move at this point.
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#64
by
zuhandenheit
on 03 Jul, 2014 13:06
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Hi All,
I've got an update and a question.
I've got Jagerauto's engine, and it looks good. He wasn't sure if he'd replaced the rod bolts when he checked the bearings, so I ordered a new set, along with ARP main studs, and an assortment of other stuff I need to put this together.
Here's my question: My parts arrived today, and I discovered that I'd been sent the wrong rod bolts. I didn't know that the AAZ had two different styles of rod bolts. Unfortunately, this motor has the older bolts, which are different than the TDI bolts (which I was sent). They look like this:
The part number is: 028 105 425 G
I was sent: 028 105 425 C
The dealer first said they're NLA, but did some searching and now says they can get them from Germany, but I might have to wait awhile. Any other ideas?
Thanks!
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#65
by
zuhandenheit
on 03 Jul, 2014 13:08
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#66
by
Gizmoman
on 03 Jul, 2014 16:20
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#67
by
zuhandenheit
on 04 Jul, 2014 07:50
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A google search on the part number you provided nets this:
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Bolt---connecting-rod/5132842/028105425G.html
Here is some info you may find useful as well:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=123899.5;wap2
As for as which ones are correct though, I'll need to defer to the more experienced.
Oh man, thanks! I don't know how I missed that first link - it never appeared in my searches.
After I called Bora Parts, they did eventually find the bolts (in Germany), and ordered a couple sets. The price should be around $4.50 / bolt. Because they've been cool to deal with, I'm going to get the bolts through them. I'm still going to be waiting for a little while, unfortunately.
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#68
by
zuhandenheit
on 04 Jul, 2014 08:01
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Another thing that I'm wondering about:
I have my ARP main studs now. They say to torque the studs to 60, and to check clearances again after torquing. Is that necessary? Do I plastigauge the main bearing caps?
Thanks again for all the help, ya'll.
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#69
by
theman53
on 04 Jul, 2014 09:26
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I would torque them to spec then loosen three times and then torque final. Rotate the crank I think is what they are saying to "check clearance"
The purpose of torqueing 3 times is to stress relieve/burnish and get more consistent torque. The first two polish and burnish the bolt threads, the nut surface, and the bearing surface between the nut and cap. By a third torquing, everything’s polished and slicker than after the first. It’s lost the friction that gives the initial reading on the torque wrench. That third, final reading is accurate to within 0.0002 inch of bolt stretch on ARP bolts using ARP moly lube.
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#70
by
zuhandenheit
on 04 Jul, 2014 16:00
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Thanks so much for your detailed explanation! I'll do exactly what you said.
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#71
by
zuhandenheit
on 05 Jul, 2014 18:41
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Okay - Another quick question, which has been asked many times about ARP main studs in general, but apparently not here.
Is it generally not necessary to line hone the crank journal after installing studs? I'm a little nervous about using the studs because of this . . .
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#72
by
theman53
on 05 Jul, 2014 20:35
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It shouldn't be needed. The main caps were installed at the factory and torqued I am sure before machining. Unless you are going to torque it out of spec so far to distort it, the caps will be fine. Whether studs or bolts they are clamping the same piece together. The block locates the caps not the studs or bolts so it should be a non issue.
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#73
by
zuhandenheit
on 08 Jul, 2014 15:25
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Well, the main studs went in without issue, and the crank still spins! The rod bolts have been delayed, so I'm kind of stuck at the moment. I posted some pictures of my progress on my thread at thesamba:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=597954&start=40It's a lot easier to upload pictures there, because the forum software automatically resizes them . . .
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#74
by
zuhandenheit
on 08 Jul, 2014 17:36
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Here's something I'm wondering about:
Should I use my old v-belt setup, or the serp belt? I'll just be running a water pump and alternator . . .