Timing belt. GOT IT!

[icyhotpatch]

So Ive got the pump and all timed. When I pulled the pin on the pump it jumped is that normal? Tightened up the belt to 13 whatever's and rotated the engine without any interference. Got out my mighty vac vacuum pump and my dial indicator and stuck it in the hole. At this point I rotate the engine counter clockwise until the dial stops moving, zero the gauge and rotate clockwise to engine tdc and then rotate the pump until its at 0 again. Should rotate pump around .03 mm or so?

Again, done more timing chains than belts and no VW diesels so I'm talking out loud at you guys hoping you will correct me.

Most likely wasting time at work.

[vanbcguy]

Uhhh.. Not quite sure what you're doing there. There is no step where you turn the pump to read zero at TDC. It should read whatever reading you want for your timing - 1.05mm or so on a turbo engine, not sure the number for NA.



Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

[icyhotpatch]

That makes sense no idea where I got the zero at tdc from. So rotate cc until dial stops zero it. Then back clockwise to tdc then rotate pump to I think its like .85mm or so.

Most likely wasting time at work.

[vanbcguy]

You've got it! Be careful turning the engine counter clockwise btw - if you were to loosen the crank bolt Very Bad Things will happen, though it is pretty unlikely.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

[Renax]

If the crank bolt loosens while turning the engine backwards thats about the best ting that can happen. Because if its that loose its doomed anyway, so better fix it in the shop than have it come of on the road...

Sent from my cheapchinaphone using Tapatalk

[TylerDurden]

^^ +1

[air-cooled or diesel]

So Ive got the pump and all timed. When I pulled the pin on the pump it jumped is that normal?

this isn't normal, although may not cause problems, still. iirc, when you assemble belt and slip on cam sprocket with belt, put bolt in, leave cam bolt loose, then remove pump pin, it shouldn't jump, if it does you may have to check how you got it together and re-do. donot rotate engine with pin lock in.
what engine do you have, a td times at about 1.00mm and different na 1.6 time somewhat differently. mine for instance times at 0.90mm+/-.02. I shoot for 0.92mm myself, but then again this is a 1.6na,me,hydro,etc.
there is a link in site for the different measurements. we can look up your model of engine.
you need enough 'pre-load' when putting dial gauge in, then with belt off rotate pump back until you can zero gauge and add enough 'pre-load', with belt on rotate crank back, zero gauge add pre-load if necessary(zero here), then rotate full time around(crankx2) and get base/first measurement.

[icyhotpatch]

I have 1.6 na and I was going to shoot for about .9mm for preload. When the pump jumped it rotated clockwise. Not too much trouble to take it back off and try again. I think I had too much slack between crank and the intermediate shaft. Was going to have it running but need new hose clamps so I will grab some and get it running on Sunday. I replaced a CV boot. So nasty. I hate gear oils and grease. Thankfully no one takes care of their car and I don't have to deal with gear oil that much.

Most likely wasting time at work.

[air-cooled or diesel]

if the pulley jumped noticeably, it could be up to 1 tooth off, making timing it like that rather pointless. think you need to try again,, make sure you turn crank over x2 and re-measure cam tdc to crank tdc(w/cam lock + feeler gauges.)
is it hydro lifters? I think its 0.90mm+/-0.02mm. mech lifters and td time differently.
cv boots can be messy and black grease, but gear lube ive always find is clear and rarely dirty, unless they don't take care of it,

[icyhotpatch]

Nothing was wrong other than it tore. Grease just sucks. I'm going to assume it has mechanical lifters. Its a 1.6l D out of an 82 built in the US. The engine is original but the transmission was not. Is there a way to I'd the head without removing stuff? I know how to tell what engine is in a Subaru and a Toyota 2jzgte but other engine code locations escape me.

Most likely wasting time at work.

[theman53]

I would time it to .94 as the N/a spec is .9 to .95. It just seems that .94 has worked well for power and fuel economy for me.

[air-cooled or diesel]

Is there a way to I'd the head without removing stuff? I know how to tell what engine is in a Subaru and a Toyota 2jzgte but other engine code locations escape me.

look at lifters, hydro are 1 piece; mech have the adjustment disk that rides on cam.

[theman53]

Sorry, forgot about the head question. Check out the engine code on the front of the block right behind #3 injector area. Also, if the head is mechanical it only will have one oil drain on the front of the block, hydro will have 2...unless someone like me got to it and added mech valvetrain to a hydro head.

[icyhotpatch]

When I pulled the pin it didn't jump this time. Now I marked the can pulley and IP pulley and a corresponding spot on the belt and when I rotated the engine 360 the lines didn't match up but everything looks to be at tdc is that right? Ie I can put the camlock in at flywheel tdc. I assume its similar to Subaru's where it skips a tooth on purpose so it doesn't wear in one spot more it wears everywhere the same

Its mechanical BTW.

Most likely wasting time at work.

[icyhotpatch]

And I was lied to. My buddy helping me whom I trusted failed to mention seeing this other mark on the flywheel. https://flic.kr/p/o3Jvms is there a way to know tdc without the flywheel? Does the vacuum/pressure gauge trick work in this engine through the glow plug hole?

I was reading however the new flywheels can be aligned incorrectly and maybe that's what this is. And it has a new set of marks for the other location?

Hopefully I didn't mess my engine up.

Most likely wasting time at work.