Followup on the "bleeder" on the filter mount (or on top of the mk2 filters)...
My acute deductive talents (AKA reading the manual) indicate the port is to be opened when draining water from bottom the filter.
Followup on the "bleeder" on the filter mount (or on top of the mk2 filters)...
My acute deductive talents (AKA reading the manual) indicate the port is to be opened when draining water from bottom the filter.
There's a manual? lol
I actually have one from my 81 somewhere. I've never had any water come out of that drain, I just replace the filter a time
or two a year which is probably overkill. I ended up plugging the hole with a bolt to get the clearance I wanted to the heater lines after lowering the
mount to clear the strut tower brace. Which I may not be able to use anyway depending on how plumbing the airbox to the
intake goes. Hardpipe with couplings ain't happening, ordered some SCAT ducting form aircraftspruce to see if it'll
cram in there.
I am so sick of this tiny ass engine bay.
think I solved the intake pipe problem.
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So the SCAT ducting fit, barely.
Spherical rod ends are awesome for shift linkage. Have teflon bushings form Roger and a weighted shift rod as well.
And I sprung for one of those mushmiester dealys form USRT, mostly because I'd been drinking and was browsing parts.
This is going to become a less crappy downpipe than stock at some point..
And I gave up and orderd a 2" Techtonics exhaust.
While I didn't bother doing a lot of math that should be more than sufficient for the intake and exhaust.
Need to fill fluids, finish the exhaust, finally put the rear SS brake lines on and bleed system, and I think that'll be about it.
Till whatever needs tweaking presents itself.
Figured what the hell, drivers side is clean, might as well fix this one.
Still, sigh.
"Spherical rod ends are awesome for shift linkage. Have teflon bushings form Roger and a weighted shift rod as well.
And I sprung for one of those mushmiester dealys form USRT, mostly because I'd been drinking and was browsing parts."
Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkage.shtmlsame as this setup I would imagine. Seems like the stock linkages wears very quickly, at least here in ohio they do. Upgrading to rod ends or similar make it basically a non wear item. All you have to do is grease it every year and all is like the day you installed it.
Yeah, I've got Rogers teflon bushings. The stock stuff when brand new and carefully adjusted is "ok" at best.
Figured I'd try something different. There is for sure less play and more precision/adjustability in the linkage.
Plus it should last for ages. One of the biggest problems with NA diesels is to utilize what little power they have,
you need to be able to shift quickly. I've had a bunch of these cars and replaced all the same parts, run different
trans, good fluid, etc, etc, even the best setups it takes 2 or 3x the time to shift as most cars and not be abusing the thing with
brute force which I'm not willing to do. I hope this setup will add enough precision that I can cut some time down
between gears. I extended the shift arm a bit to lower the for/aft throw some too, and it has a weighted shift rod.
I may well discover once the linkage is performing better that the trans is just tired, most of them are, but at least
then I'll know and not be left wondering. I thought hard about an 02A swap but it just wasn't worth it for what I do.
Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
Oh, and
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.phpI might wrap the abrasion prone areas in really good duct tape, but it'll probly be ok.
It was the only solution to using that intake, a strut bar, and a stock airbox, I had envisioned a hardpipe
between the two couplers but that wasn't happening.
Less-crappy and non-$300 downpipe is happening slowly.
And some non-30yo-rubber rear brake lines. Nothing says professional like ziptied brakelines btw. Also pictured: TT 2" exhaust which exceeded my
expectations for $198 shipped.
And I found a place making the clear fuel line, so I got the factory turbo length one to better fit the top mounted fuel filter.
Was there a problem with shifting with the stock setup? Re the colorful intake hose, will it stand up to engine environment long term? You wouldn't want to have a leak develop/ suck dirty air and not know it's happening.
Oh, and http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php
I might wrap the abrasion prone areas in really good duct tape, but it'll probly be ok.
It was the only solution to using that intake, a strut bar, and a stock airbox, I had envisioned a hardpipe
between the two couplers but that wasn't happening.
Looks similar in construction to the hoses the Porta-John trucks use. lol Spec temperature wise seems ok.
I hope for the sake of all mankind the p-jon stuff is heavier. I'd trust this with air but not.. Other stuff.. lol
65mm OD intake, 70od airbox I believe they were. The SCAT tubing is affixed and sealed inside the silicone couplers.
It's plenty for a NA motor to breathe through I think.
There wasn't anything else I could find that would contort squish and twist where it must and still fit those
two size openings.