aaz turbo option

[vanbcguy]

Generally speaking you want to keep EGTs under 1200F. Maxing out at 1400F under hard acceleration for a couple of seconds is fine but you want to be below there for say long hill climbs.

For your pyro it is mostly important to find one that has a small probe. I'm using an Auber Instruments one, the Aircraft Spruce "micro" probes are great too. Avoid the big fat VDO or Auto Meter probes, they react slowly due to the amount of time it takes to heat the probe itself up.

Any gauge that has a range from about 300F to 1500F would be ideal. That will let you cool down the engine properly. They pretty much all use K-type thermocouples so for the most part any probe should work with any gauge.

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[theman53]

I vote for the micro spruce as I haven't seen anything react as fast as it does, but I am biased. Also I like my gauge to go down to 200f as I don't like to shut it down until then. Even syth oil likes to cook if you shut it down at 300f and the heat soak creeps up to I have seen mine go up 100f after shut down. Also, when I did my turbo I bought the ebay ex manifold. It does come about 1/2" from the firewall, but it fits and mine is a little different than yours. If I were going again I may just make one, and would recommend you do as well if you have the welding skills. The best thing you can do when making your downpipe is to put V band on each end of it. It takes a ton of time to set it all up, but when you are done it is so nice. I can remove my DP in about 3 minutes if it isn't hot, and replacing it isn't much harder. I would run 2.5" from the turbo all the way back. I honestly do not think you will see that much EGT with this turbo and a stock pump, but time will tell.

[Gizmoman]

My EGT runs at 330 or so after a normal run. I'd have to let it idle for a long time to get it below 200 - if it could even go there.
What could be done to lower idle temps at the EGT?

[8v-of-fury!]

Maximum reading of the probe is 2000F. I have seen it read -35F as well on cold winter mornings.. So yes, the gauge reads down to absolute cool down. Which I like, because I can see my engine idling at 215F when at operating temperature.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=231

For that price, it is completely unbeatable.

[vanbcguy]

I've got the Auber probe too. Seems super fast to react - I have it on my turbo computer so I can look at logs. It seems to track the accelerator perfectly.

I cool my motor down to about 165C before shutdown. I'm usually about there by the time I finish backing in to my driveway.

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[8v-of-fury!]

^^

Yeah I am really surprised how quickly it cools off after a hard beating.. I very rarely ever have to let it cool off! Three residential roads off any main road to get to my driveway, and by that point I am usually closing in on the lower 300's (Fahrenheit) even if I was just hot dogging it up the main roads..

It can even track the amount of extra fuel added to keep the idle stable when I turn on a higher powered accessory.. I don't see how it could be any more accurate. I am very pleased with that purchase for sure. I use one for EGT and BOOST. Red and Blue respectively.

[mark3kid]

The one linked above is the one you guys recondmend? Price is crazy cheap!! And looks good quality. This thread is amazing!

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[mark3kid]

Hey guys just wondering where is the best spot to put the probe at?

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[vanbcguy]

In the center of the exhaust manifold BEFORE the turbo.  Ideally you want the probe to be sitting right in the center of the manifold outlet to the turbo.

[mark3kid]

Good to know that before I put the manifold on. Thanks

[mark3kid]

well a little update
turbo came today  :


now question time. how do I clock the intake side? or do I not?

[Gizmoman]

Congrats. You will really like this turbo but it may take some fiddling.
Hopefully you won't need to re-clock the housings, just possibly the middle section (the boost gate rod needs to stay aligned). Any rotation of the two housings will throw off the factory adjustment.

To rotate the inner section, remove the V-clamps. You'll find a pin inside that keeps it from rotating. Remove the pin.

The goal is to have the oil drain clocked at 6:00

If you need to rotate the scrolls out of alignment with each other, you'll need to make a new bracket of some sort to mount the can on. Mine was an extreme situation (50 degree Vanagon)

I also had to cut the tab for the can off because it hit the head.

A bit of interesting info -  snail in Latin is helix

[theman53]

as you see in his pics that pin in the housing keeps it from rotating, so you cannot just compress the snap ring and twist it. The cold side has to come off and the pin pulled. I left the pin out on mine, it hasn't rotated yet.

[mark3kid]

so my manifold arrived on friday. sadly i havnt had much time to do any work at all on the turbo setup is coming together slowly. my concern right now is how do i get it on the manifold. the flange is right but the problem is that there is not enough room to fit a bolt in there to tighten it,  im hoping someone has a suggestion?




and yes my mother is not happy with me keeping my car parts on the kitchen counter

[libbydiesel]

Studs in the turbo.