1.6 timing ?question?

[air-cooled or diesel]

one question I wanted clarified. I used vince's site thru link on timing, my question is, to zero the dial gauge I like to remove timing belt, put injection pump pin in, insert dial gauge, take pin out, with a wrench turn pump back till gauge stops going back, when I find this spot I then turn pump forward slightly until gauge just starts moving forward, put 2mm of pre-load on gauge and zero it out. does this method work correctly? because with the belt on and someone turning the crank finding the spot where the gauge just 'ticks' forward can be difficult, so then I can put pre-load on the gauge at that time.

[TylerDurden]

No.

Adequate (>2.5mm) preload must be put on gauge first, to find the beginning of the ramp when rolling back.

[air-cooled or diesel]

im putting 2mm pre-load on dial gauge when pump is at bottom of #1 stroke, so I have about 3mm total reading on dial when at tdc, or my measurement im shooting for is just about 0.92mm at tdc. but my pre-load is set at 2mm at the bottom or beginning of #1 stroke for pump, or do I want some more? like 2.5mm like you said? and I zero out gauge and add the full 2mm pre-load when dial just ticks going from no stroke or -0- to just a 'tick' going Forward, I never go backwards for timing purposes, for this I feel is right.
but its ok to do this with belt removed? I feel so, but I just want to be sure, and rotating pump forward and backward with a wrench(w/belt removed)?

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

For nearly 30+ years, there's been long and confusing descriptions re timing procedure for our diesels.

OK, Forget any locking pins. They are for belt replacement and not timing.
Don't take belt off, other than to replace.

Starting with a running, but mistimed engine, using either the 19mm/3/4" wrench on a crank bolt method to turn engine, or have car in gear and jack up the most convenient front wheel for you to set TDC on the flywheel.

Best at this point to check that any flat bar fits the cam slot, wedged parallel with feeler gauges. Also that cam lobes for #1 cylinder point skywards.
 Not essential though as car has been previously running, so it can be checked later, if cam cover still on.

OK You have engine set to TDC.

Remove timing bolt from pump.

Take your timing gauge, check that it is functioning correctly by setting it's face  to zero,[ignore the inner pointer] at it's relaxed position, then push probe in, and  allow it to move back to rest, by releasing pressure. Some dials are not damped, and so may slam back beyond zero; so best to control this with finger.

Repeat a couple of times. If it comes back to start [zero], you are ready to go. Better t odo ths with thetiming extension, and core attached.

The Timing
At TDC insert this gauge that is set to zero at rest. Remember to screw up firmly the gauge adapter to the pump.
Push gauge in until about 2.5mm reading. Fasten gauge.
Turn crank anti clockwise until gauge stops moving. You can do this without fear of undoing crank bolt, as the engine naturally wants to spring back from near TDC.
It should stop at about 1.5mm.

Rezero gauge, and now rotate engine twice, checking for the gauge to return to zero 4  times. On the 4th zero, begin to search for TDC on the flywheel. It should occur between 0.8mm, and 1mm-ish. Record this timing, then slacken pump, adjust  to new timing by swinging pump and noting that top of pump towards engine is advancing,or +ve or more mm.

[air-cooled or diesel]

except for the 60k timing belt service/change, I wouldn't suggest unhooking a timing belt normally. but I have to unhook mine 1 more time, and in doing so I want to get it closer. so in zeroing out dial gauge I found it much easier to do when belt was removed and I turned ip with a wrench. I was getting the right numbers though; I in the end with pre-load had 3mm total gauge movement, as I put 2mm and zeroed gauge at the bottom of the ip#1stroke and brought to tdc, went around again (2x) and took another more accurate reading, go around 1 more time and take that value and the previous value and adjust at this point/value. etc.,  thx.

[TylerDurden]

The readings may look right, but the timing will be wrong.

The preload before finding start of stroke is essential to distinguishing bottom of camplate from bottom of gauge travel.