Franken-TD for an '84 Coupe: Like i need another hole in my build thread

[Rock3tman]

My IM bearings were damaged somewhat similarly (see attached 2 photos): so I removed all oil galley plugs,
the piston oil squirters, etc., and flushed oil galleys as much as possible.    There were a lot of metal flakes
in the bottom of the pan...YMMV

Also, The crank (both ends) and IM shaft also needed redi sleeves (from NAPA), as grooves were too deep
into crankshaft and IM shafts to be turned out and I didn't want to ruin the Nitriding on the crank journals as
it was still to STD size.

[TimpanogosSlim]

ouch.

Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.

I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.

no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.

[Gizmoman]

ouch.

Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.

I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.

no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.

Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.

[TimpanogosSlim]

ouch.

Yeah my IM shaft is toast per the pictures. Got feelers out for another.

I'd been figuring on having the shop measure the crankshaft as well.

no metal flakes in the oil pan, just little two little BB sized meteorites of molten aluminum, which jives with the report that a failed injector had caused partial head meltdown.

Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.

Good question! I have no idea. The guy i bought the jetta from said that the guy he bought it from (when it ran w/o tow starting) told him the tale of a partially melted head.

[vanbcguy]

The only definitive way to know is to get your injectors pop tested. But excessive smoke is a serious warning sign...

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

[Rock3tman]

..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do.  I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.

[TimpanogosSlim]

..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do.  I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.

They have a sleeve for that flange on the end? which is cracked pretty bad.

[745 turbogreasel]

I stood the IP up on a pad of shop towels, outputs down. Surprising how much diesel these hold. My inner juvenile delinquent wanted to set fire to the towels and slick of diesel on the driveway.

I usually throw  them in my oil drain pan to bleed out for a minute.

Your raise a good point, is there a specific sound a guy would listen for to detect a bad injector? By your post, I wouldn't want to run one for long and it would be nice to know.

Mine was a  bit of clatter, and a fairly heavy miss....cut through the fresh head into coolant in about half an hour of run time
The tip was  visibly messed up had i taken the time to look.

[Gizmoman]

..if your IM shaft isn't cracked, bent, overheated, etc, the NAPA redi sleeves will allow its re-use safely: though Libbydiesel has more
experience with them than I do.  I'd re-use the IM shaft with sleeves on anything less than a full-on race machine.

From what I can tell in the OP's photo, a good portion of the thrust flange is about to fall off - time for a replacement

[TimpanogosSlim]

yeah i should have used the more clear "i need a replacement intermediate shaft" - doesn't have to be *new.

[TimpanogosSlim]

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get told that i need to bore this out. 

[TimpanogosSlim]

So the good thing about having a friend who works at a highly respected and very busy machine shop is that your parts go in the back door and you don't have to negotiate with the owner's jackass son who is more interested in drop-shipping rebuild kits sold through the website than actually doing machine work.

The bad thing is that they are completely slammed and it might be a week or more before i know anything about my block. I worry about the ridge.

Anyway, about the electronic oil pressure gauge sender and oil feed for the turbo - I have decided to drill and tap the 2nd boss on the filter flange. I already bought some aluminum cutting oil so it will be no big deal to put 1/8 npt threads in it.

I've ordered a 1/8 npt street tee and a 1/8 npt to -4 AN union. I'll decide what goes on the side port and what goes on the top port when i assemble the engine.

[vanbcguy]

These adapters will allow you to use the existing M10 ports with 1/8-27 NPT things:

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/18-npt-female-to-m-10p-10-male-adapter.aspx

That way you don't have to mess with drilling/tapping.

[TimpanogosSlim]

I'm aware of those, but this way i don't have to attach 3 things to a single port, and i can use the OE oil pressure switch in the original port.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Alright, I spoke to my machinist.

He says that the crankshaft and rods are perfect, crankshaft has been polished for me.

As expected the cylinders need bored.

He estimated, well, roughly what I'd end up spending on another block, including pistons.

I know I've heard tales of shops not boring the "right" way for VW pistons. I am not sure what is meant by that. The shop I'm working with has a policy of acquiring the pistons first and then boring the cylinders to match the actual measurement of the pistons.

I'll probably stop by the shop tomorrow to discuss it in more detail.