1.6D / 1.6TD valves/heads - rebuilding?

[Bugsy_malone 666]

Ok so ages back my 1.6TD failed where the cam pulley at the bottom came loose at tick over, so hopefully not a massive amount of damage done as it just suddenly stopped.

So basically I want to rebuild this 1.6TD engine, I was going to put it back in my camper but decided I might throw it in my mk3 golf and boost the power up a bit (like gov mod the fuel pump, adjust the fueling and the turbo pressure) as I need more fuel economy out of my daily(currently doing 25mpg ).

I havent stripped the TD down yet to see the full damage but the block will obviously be usable, pistons hopefully, but the head is where I do wonder.

As all the valves have had a little game of tap dance on the pistons I would assume that none of the valves are any good anymore? Also what about the hydro lifters are they likely to be knackered too? (if they are annoying as they had covered 200 miles only!) I was looking on ebay but it seems valves dont seem to be that cheap (not like vw beetle ones) especially when you need a set, which got me thinking. I do have an older 1.6D engine also (which needs stripping to check after the core plugs were frosted out) and I know its a non hydro head but the valves and that should be all good. I wondered however are valves the same on hydro and non hydro heads? I understand the heads might be different for the oil ways for the lifters, but i wondered what differences there are between the heads.

Ultimately I am looking at a budget rebuild on my engine using whats good from each engine to make one good engine as the turbo block has piston squirters to keep things cooler even if I use NA pistons, but I understand that even the NA is pretty good with a turbo and a good pump.

Thoughts on this one?

Obviously I dont want to cut corners but I dont want to buy more parts than really required as I have to make this rebuild pay for itself putting it in my golf(then put the golfs 1.8 thirsty petrol in my camper instead!).

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Could be barely any damage.
 Did the cam snap? Just open up and measure everything. With head off, pour kerosine into backs of shut valves to check if still seating correctly.
 Minor dings to piston crowns can be ignored or de-ridged. Shimmed v hydro are different length valves. Cam may be different too.

Not cutting corners does not mean unnecessary part replacement...

[vanbcguy]

Valves are tricky. The problem is they tend to drop a head 1000 miles after getting whacked, then they take out the piston, head and potentially even the cylinder wall. They get hit square on so they look straight but the stem gets squashed.

That said you can definitely inspect them thoroughly and take your chances. Measure them and make sure they are all the same length, make sure the stems don't look unusual.

Comes down to the price you can find valves for versus what you have in the engine. Lots of folks have run em, lots of folks have had catastrophic failures.

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[745 turbogreasel]

You can probably see a kiss mark on  affected pistons, not sure about the hydro lifters, but the mechanical ones  show if they've been whacked.