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#15
by
ToddA1
on 28 Jan, 2014 15:14
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Vaseline is just brand name petroleum jelly. Same as comparing a Q-Tip to a cotton swab.
Good to hear that you didn't have any issues with the sticking vanes.
-Todd
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#16
by
Gizmoman
on 28 Jan, 2014 18:06
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. . .and short of storage space is my problem. Well, one of them.
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#17
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jan, 2014 20:50
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I like Tylers' sig.
I have a VW problem. Kind of two meanings to it. One it is broken and needs fixed. The other has to do with a miriad of possibilities from having too many to too few of the vehicles he loves to hate.
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#18
by
TylerDurden
on 29 Jan, 2014 05:18
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Yup. (Lotta folks more hardcore VW than me tho.)
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#19
by
Spokerider
on 01 Feb, 2014 08:31
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I've got a Bosch seal kit and a shaft seal coming........ never been into any injection pump before.
Is this thread, a comprehensive-enough pictorial for a newbie to successfully reseal a pump?
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6694Or are there more threads out there with a different spin on the same procedure? I seem to remember one on the net from 2008-ish that is no longer on the web, it was good too. I have hours of research to do, no doubt.
Or, anybody have one of the CD's on the ve pump resealing procedure around, that they have moved beyond and no longer need? Wanna sell it?
Any tips and tricks to share to make the job a tad easier?
THANKS!
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#20
by
wolf_walker
on 01 Feb, 2014 10:16
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That thread got me through mine.
The main leakers are the input shaft seal which you can remove with a flat blade screwdriver that has a hook ground into it, but
take great care not to scratch the housing or the shaft, I did a lot fo smoothing of edges on my little hook tool.
The cast iron high pressure pump end has a big o-ring, you can actually replace this without totally removing the pump end,
you sorta loosen it evenly till the o-ring is visible, remove it and ease the new one over the outside of the iron part.
Putting plastic wrap over it and/or lube and taping off the sharp edges of the delivery valves is a good idea.
The caps for the cold start advance, both sides, have an o-ring that isn't hard to replace.
The top cover has a big fitted o-ring, and the throttle shaft has an o-ring on it. Worst part of that
is the spring setup on the throttle shafts, take pics.
Off the top of my head those are the worst leaky offenders, unless it's filthy and needs to come apart I don't
go any further into a working-but-leaking pump than I have to.
Others with more experience should chime in and be sure I haven't forgotten something important but that's all
I've done on the last two that were working and in use but started leaking.
And clean the exterior of the pump to death before you start.
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#21
by
TylerDurden
on 01 Feb, 2014 10:39
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Best tip I know is to take pix and mark parts with a scribe to replace them exactly in the orientation they were before. Count & write down the turns when removing threaded shafts & adjusting screws.
A couple parts need special tools you can DIY, gov-shaft locknut (might be lefty) and the triangle bolts for the lever pivot.
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#22
by
damac
on 01 Feb, 2014 11:39
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#23
by
wolf_walker
on 01 Feb, 2014 21:16
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Best tip I know is to take pix and mark parts with a scribe to replace them exactly in the orientation they were before. Count & write down the turns when removing threaded shafts & adjusting screws.
A couple parts need special tools you can DIY, gov-shaft locknut (might be lefty) and the triangle bolts for the lever pivot.
Yeah, yeah, that triangle nut and there was some other weird thing. All that junk of mine is in a box with two half built pumps I never
finished before I moved. It was all pretty easy to rummage up in an average shop though.
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#24
by
libbydiesel
on 01 Feb, 2014 21:38
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I have several special pump tools which I made using a dremel tool and either a fine grinding bit (chainsaw sharpening) or fiber cutoff wheel. The largest is a 24mm socket with three places ground out to fit the very large triangular plug at the end of the distributor head (the timing plug threads into the middle). There is an o-ring around that large plug that needs to be changed if doing a reseal. Next is a special screwdriver I ground into a bit of a hook shape for pulling the main shaft seal. Next I have the triangular tool for the control collar pivot bolts. That I made from a 12mm 6pt socket and similarly ground out three of the sides to make the triangular shape. Next I have a socket for removing the pressure regulator. That tool I made from a 10mm 6pt socket and rounded out 4 of the 6 flats to make the shape of the head of the governor. Next I have a special socket for the older governor shaft nut. I made that socket from a 3/8" socket and cut away all but two points that fit into the slot on either side of the shaft. If the nut is a normal hex, it is normal thread. If it is the special slotted circular nut, then it is a left-hand thread. I also have a special socket made from a 7mm 6pt socket and ground out to be triangular. It fits the special bolt on the top of TDI injection pumps. Torx bits are needed as are allen bits (or at least the 5mm) along with a bit driver and 1/4" 6pt box wrench - mine is from Sears. The combination of a bit driver along with a 1/4" wrench around the bit is fairly unstoppable for loosening tough fasteners. The vane pump cover bolts can be the most difficult IMO and should be approached with extreme caution. I typically use a tight fitting phillips or torx bit depending on which style those bolts are and use a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension to drive them out while the pump case is securely held in the vice. Push down solidly while starting them.
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#25
by
Spokerider
on 02 Feb, 2014 08:13
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Thanks for the tips guys, it helps.
I figure that I will have to make the collar shaft triangular 12mm socket mod, and the screwdriver main shaft seal puller for sure.
What about the large triangular plug at the end of the distributor head, will my 1993 AAZ pump have that too? If so, I guess that's another tool I will have to make to change that seal. I *think* the governor shaft nut is a regular hex on my pump, but I will have to look again to be certain.
I've got the Torx, Allen and Phillips head bits, what about using an impact driver for loosening the stubborn fasteners? I'm talking about the impact driver that you hit with a hammer and it spins the fastener about 1/2 turn to break it loose upon impact. I have used it with success on other applications.
What about the use of Vaseline for reassembly? Is it used as a lubricant / and oxidization barrier on all surfaces? On just a few parts?
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#26
by
libbydiesel
on 02 Feb, 2014 09:08
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I don't use an impact driver, but imagine it might work well. As I mentioned, this is my preferred method:
With the pump clamped in a vice, the driver handle is used to just to push the bit into the fastener. All the twisting force is applied with the wrench. It works extremely well.
I use vaseline on all of the parts that rub/roll, metal hard parts or rubber seals.
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#27
by
libbydiesel
on 02 Feb, 2014 10:01
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And, yes, every VE pump 1.5 through 1.9TDI has the large triangular plug in the middle of the distributor head and the rubber o-ring around it.
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#28
by
ToddA1
on 02 Feb, 2014 11:23
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I use an impact driver. Works well.
I use a thin smear of generic Vaseline if the pump is going to be sitting on the shelf. If its going back into service, I just give the parts a quick dip in clean D2.
-Todd
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#29
by
745 turbogreasel
on 02 Feb, 2014 14:11
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