What oil should I use to break my freshly rebuild AAZ (bored/honed +new pistons/rings/bearings)
Just the usual A-grade 15W40 oil and change it after 5000kms?
i dont know if this is the recommended practice, but after work like that i would change it after 500 or 1000km just so that any small shavings or anything else that could be in there is drained as soon as possible.
I'd say just use the cheapest 15w40 oil, and change often until the motor has 5000km on it.
It's OK to drop it once a few hours after start up to get rid of any assy lubes and debris from inside the motor.After that,run it at least another 1000.Then go 3000.
These motors are tough to get the rings to set,and fresh oil makes it even harder.Drive it hard during the break in period,it will help the rings seat faster.
I bought a can of house-brand oil of the shop I always buy my car-parts for the first km's.. after about 100km I'm going to drain and filter the oil, then change it to Castol after 1000-2500km while keeing an eye on the oil.
okheres what i did on my break in,dont get the engine in the car and fire it up,,,,,install everything! as if you are going togo for a drive,coolant ,hoses exhaust,everything!!dont rush to get it running,,,prelube it too,,i made a tool from an old vacuum pump,ran it with a drill,,,and had glow plugs out(pain on idi,mines a tdi),,as i was turning drill,,i would bump starter over w/a remote starter button,,let it lube for a minute or so,,then put in the plugs+vacuum pump,,and went for ignition,,,lemme know if you want toknow how tobuild one of these,,its easy if you have any old vacuum pump laying around ,,,,,rotella 15-40,,,get it started,and hold it at 2000 for 10-15mins,,blipping throttle(hard) once in a while,to load rings,,if rings dont seat in this time,,theynever will,after it was allwarmed up ,,looking for leaks,,looked good,,,,tookit around block easy on it,,load it some,,,came back dumped oil+filter,to remove assembly lubes,,, i think i changed it again at around 300 miles,then again around 1200,,iwas nuts,stuck a bunch of magnets on the oilfilter+stuff,,,dont beat it hard like redline shifts,,but dont be afraid to run it,,wyldman has it right,,,,,,i figured all those oilchanges was cheaper than an engine,,once i let it get 3 or4 k im probably goin synthetic,,,,,,,,happy run in!!!!!!!!!
okheres what i did on my break in,dont get the engine in the car and fire it up,,,,,install everything! as if you are going togo for a drive,coolant ,hoses exhaust,everything!!dont rush to get it running,,,prelube it too,,i made a tool from an old vacuum pump,ran it with a drill,,,and had glow plugs out(pain on idi,mines a tdi),,as i was turning drill,,i would bump starter over w/a remote starter button,,let it lube for a minute or so,,then put in the plugs+vacuum pump,,and went for ignition,,,lemme know if you want toknow how tobuild one of these,,its easy if you have any old vacuum pump laying around ,,,,,rotella 15-40,,,get it started,and hold it at 2000 for 10-15mins,,blipping throttle(hard) once in a while,to load rings,,if rings dont seat in this time,,theynever will,after it was allwarmed up ,,looking for leaks,,looked good,,,,tookit around block easy on it,,load it some,,,came back dumped oil+filter,to remove assembly lubes,,, i think i changed it again at around 300 miles,then again around 1200,,iwas nuts,stuck a bunch of magnets on the oilfilter+stuff,,,dont beat it hard like redline shifts,,but dont be afraid to run it,,wyldman has it right,,,,,,i figured all those oilchanges was cheaper than an engine,,once i let it get 3 or4 k im probably goin synthetic,,,,,,,,happy run in!!!!!!!!!
hmmm magets would be highly beneficial from separating small metal particles from sensitive engine areas. There is already a magnet on the oil drain plug, but one on the oil filter / oil pan would be a great idea !
I'm going to prelube the engine by periodicly cranking till my VDO pressuregauge reads a stable pressure.. I've got 2 Optima Yellowtops loaded and waiting to deliver the power
The magnet idea is a good one.. I don't think my drainpolulg was a magnet (nothing sticking to it while sitting in the tray with other nuts and bolts) and the oiltempsensor I've put today is no magnet either.
Going to check the carpartsstore tomorrow
I don't think a magnet on the outside works like a magnetplug, it could turn the complete pan into a magnet so when you drain the oil the particles stay sticky to the walls instead of draining?
I'm going to prelube the engine by periodicly cranking till my VDO pressuregauge reads a stable pressure.. I've got 2 Optima Yellowtops loaded and waiting to deliver the power
The magnet idea is a good one.. I don't think my drainpolulg was a magnet (nothing sticking to it while sitting in the tray with other nuts and bolts) and the oiltempsensor I've put today is no magnet either.
Going to check the carpartsstore tomorrow
I don't think a magnet on the outside works like a magnetplug, it could turn the complete pan into a magnet so when you drain the oil the particles stay sticky to the walls instead of draining?
my '86 jetta TD had the magnet drain plug. and yes you are right the particles could get stuck on the oil pan... good call.
I forget if my '92 jetta TD has the magnet on it, but I'm pretty sure it does.
A magnet on the end of the drain plug would be the way to go,or even at least one on the pan.That way when changing the oil you could check and remove the death :lol: .There may even be such drain plugs avaliable for our engines I would think?If metal is in the filter its already gone through somthing anyways and it definitely wont get through the filter unless the filter gets plugged and the bypass opens.
yea get a drain plug magnet too,,idid the magnets on the oil filter,cause its getting replaced anyways,,,,since youhave an idi,,idont know which is easier,,leaving the glow plugs out,or injectors,,,glow plugs would be ok,,,easier to crank,,,,i guess if you put a magnet on the outsideof the pan,you would haveta drop the pan toclean it,,and dont let it fall off,,you could put a couple in the pan before reassembly,,like on some transmission pans
John Deere makes a break in straight 30 weight diesel oil that they use in there diesel tractors.