Just been replacing the waterpump on my SB engined GTD. Cavitation in the pump has finally reached the outside world, so 240k looks like the limit for them.
What clever methods do you use for THAT Fourth F&%Ģing bolt that holds that gert great stupid lump of cast iron that sandwiches the pump to the block. You know, the one under the injection pump, I tried removing the dipstick tube that is also in the way, but fortunately it didn't come out, after reading the hassle others have had getting them back in.
So any good methods or tools?
Come on guys, make me feel bad when you tell me a really easy way to do it.
If it's the one at the top of the water pump under the IP, I have always had success using a 3/8 extension and swivel to break it loose and then a 1/4 same to remove the nuts. Then use grease on the socket to hold the nut when putting them back. I have had to move the IP a couple of times because the were so advanced, but easier than removing it completely. VW actually have a specific tool to do the job but it's almost completely useless.
I have done this more than once and don't consider it an issue since I got nice quality tools.
I have snapped off more than socket from harbor freight for example
I think the key is smaller sockets, extensions and my favorite wobbles. Its amazing what just a wobble attachement can do as far as getting in wierd places. I tend to go this route first vs. those swivels that like to bind.
I find, if the bracket has not been removed within memory, it's easier to remove the IP.
If the gods have seen fit to put antiseize or grease on the bolt within memory, an "S" wrench can get it loose.
