Gotta pull the head question about injector lines

[TylerDurden]

Well.. there is a trick too: do the ones close to the block first, so the others can be moved a bit out of the way for room.

Maybe that's what vanbcguy means by front/back.

[Derekxj]

Okay that makes sense i guess.
But i should actually remove the clips that hold the 4 lines together, and separate two lines out of the 4, and install them first?
The guy i got the brand new lines from included some instructions. Says to lightly grease where the flare and the nut meet.

[TylerDurden]

I usually leave the clips on and just slide the nuts out of the way, maybe I'll tug a line away from the delivery valve just enough to swing a straight wrench through the gap.

Grease on the back of the flares probably can't hurt, I might use vaseline tho it's pure fuel.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

They definitely shouldn't be that difficult to get in to place.  If you have leaks there is a good chance that the flare wasn't seated properly when you torqued it down.  The clamps can definitely be removed completely during installation and then reinstalled after the lines are seated properly - I like to do mine in two separate sets (front and back) and then put the 4-line clamp on once everything is happy.

If they are leaking it might not be a crack, it might just need to be reseated.  Sometimes too after being badly seated you'll have a bit of a ridge on the flare itself.  A light polish with some emery cloth or a small file can remove the ridge and fix the sealing issues.

How do i install the lines in two seperate sets? when you say front and back, you mean front and back, on the pump? or?

I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this. dont want to ruin my brand new lines. Also, what do you gentleman use to tighten up the lines on the back of the pump? even with a short stubby 17mm wrench.........its a nightmare. Any advice?

The bottom one at the back is accessed from underneath. Rub up against the oil stick and probably a water hose too.
The procedure may be easier if the lower outer nut yet to be spun on... The lower pump bolt; 13mm & 15 mm  spanners needed...

[vanbcguy]

I remove the clamp that attaches the 4 lines together, but leave the other two clamps that hold 1/2 and 3/4 together. That leaves you with 2 sets of 2 lines.

I install the set that uses the two flares closest to the block on the pump first - that way you can get at the nuts quite easily without screwing around. Then the second set which is easy to access by its nature.

Once the lines are all installed I attach the final clamp.

[monst]

Thanks for the info...
this helps alot... especially
offering insight into....
the larger abyss of things....

[air-cooled or diesel]

be real careful to not strip the nuts, a flare wrench is better for this, when using an open-end wrench make Sure you have good contact/leverage. the bottom back cap nut on pump is difficult to get at, I put my wrench on a 'slight' angle, don't slip and take your time.
when assembling I run all 8 nuts down by hand, then take a wrench to them, a flare wrench is better for beginners or people who have had problems doing this. after hand tightening use wrench and just snug each, then go back, if all looks well tighten all nuts, you then can go back and add some (like not much) tightness. make sure none are leaking.
whether or not you install with/or with out hold downs is personal choice, if your installing new line(s) then hook up line(s) individually run caps down by hand, install hold down clamps, then tighten caps, then snug clamps. if you have a set that is in the clamps its about as easy either way. clamps are necessary!

[Derekxj]

Okay guys,
Posting back here with my results.......after a VERY aggravating night last night. I changed my injector lines......with the brand new ones i got on ebay using the " seperate the two lines out" method that was clearly spelled out here a few days ago. It worked really well for getting the back pump nuts on. Now......I made sure each line was evenely seated in the back of the pump / injectors first......before running the nuts down by HAND as snug as i could. I bled the system out....and then proceeded in giving them just a little bit more with the wrench. still had some leaks at the injectors. Went a little bit more......still had leaks. Went a little MORE. then i went and drove a while to the local self-wash and degreased the ENTIRE ENGINE. now......everything is dry except my #1 injector where the line goes on.
Its bleeding out from the bottom of the cap. I tightened it again about as much as i would ever want to because i know if i go more, im going to snap the nut or strip it. Its at THAT point now. I cleaned the injector up with brake cleaner real good........and now it is leaking out ever so slowly but none the less, its still leaking. Any thoughts?

Sheesh i hate these damn things! lol.   

[vanbcguy]

Very good chance it is the braided return line leaking then - they are definitely a source of quite a lot of problems.  They get small cracks on the inside that are hard to see and cause leaks that seem to be coming from the hard line.

Further if the injector has been bashed around the barb can crack where it attaches to the injector body.  Not saying that's the issue, I'd definitely focus my efforts on the braided line first.

[damac]

Yeah definately look for leaks migrating.

Be very carefull with those injector hard lines, its not like a normal nut where you can crank it down beyond torque.

Make sure its all totally clean and snug by hand and then you can take a regular wrench and just give a tug with normal single hand pressure.  I guess I am lucky, every set of used lines I have got have been fine, never had one crack, etc.

But this is the point you back off or like you said you might start shaving off some threads, etc. and those fittings aren't meant to be cranked on.  Something is wrong with the mating surface, even a chunk of dirt.

[air-cooled or diesel]

if it still leaks after replacing return/braided lines, the injector body may be leaking, this requires pulling injector, and possibly a new one. go back and loosen that line and re-tighten so it doesn't stay so tight. its also possible the top of the injector is marred, though I wouldn't think so, as lines are rather soft, or dirt is in that connection.

[Derekxj]

Okay guys thank you.

I'm going to take that one line off that injector, and try re-seating and re-installing the line. Even the other lines.......I had to get them pretty darn tight. However none are leaking except for that one now. Also, When i have the car running, and i hit it with brake cleaner. It obviously all disappears and the injector is completely dry. then i stick my face in there and watch it VERY close. i can see........ever so slowly....the rust color on the injector turning color, starting directly under the nut, all around the nut. So that's how i know it's where it is coming from.....through the threads and not one of the return lines.

[745 turbogreasel]

You could have a burr on the injector  concave seal the line goes into.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

One thing that may cure the leak, is to remove the line, and reassemble the line to the offending joint only, and loosely [finger tight] then swing it to 'n' fro to bed it in.
If not enough room, either use a spare injector, or for perfect mating of the joint take the offending injector to the bench...

If that still fails, check with an eyeglass for the muffin effect where the line seating spills out over the injector from overtightening.

(The joint if perfect, should seal with only a few lb-ft.)

Wet 'n' Dry it.