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Gotta pull the head question about injector lines
by
monst
on 02 Jan, 2014 10:25
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Hello,
so I was wondering...
about injector lines when I pull the head...
I have to do a head gasket(hope that is all)
coolant is contaminated (black-sooty)... and excessive pressure
in cooling system,,,, and no heat.... (pressure build up - takes a drive for ten minutes to occur)
So I really don't want to get involved in removing the injectors...
And was figuring to (hoping I can just loosen them at the pump).
Can I get some insight in to this....
thanks, Monst..
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Jan, 2014 10:32
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If you are going to be getting into a headgasket job, practice doing the timing on your engine first while it is still assembled and timed properly.
You do not need to remove the injectors, but you need to remove the injection lines at the pump and injector end. It's really not a big task. The headgasket job on the other hand, is very involved and there are lots of details you need to pay attention to.
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#2
by
745 turbogreasel
on 02 Jan, 2014 12:50
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Hardware stores have rubbery plastic 'furniture caps' that cost pennies, and fit injector fittings nice n snug. I like them better than tin foil.
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#3
by
monst
on 02 Jan, 2014 12:53
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A rather good idea....
yeah, I have done two belts on this pup since ownership...
have put a buck twenty on the odo since I have had it..
So can I just loosen them at the pump side....
or am I going to completely remove the lines as a single unit
(meaning all four lines as a group)
What can you suggest regarding the lines?
and anything else....
I am rather adept at doing the T-belt... and pump timing....
got all the gizmos to properly remove T-belt....
Also... the lines... how do they seal on the inside of the nut...
I am familiar with compression fittings in pumping.....
Is it similiar?
Monst
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#4
by
monst
on 02 Jan, 2014 12:55
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Furniture caps?
Like to keep out contaminants?
what size we talking?
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#5
by
745 turbogreasel
on 02 Jan, 2014 14:07
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yes. the yellow ones are super snug, and the gray ones less so. I keep the lines as a unit.
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#6
by
TylerDurden
on 02 Jan, 2014 16:05
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Yep, lines come off as a unit easy peasy. I put them into a gallon ziplock baggie to keep em clean after letting the fuel run out of em.
Putting them back on... I seat each line-end (bubble-flare) squarely into its recess before snugging up its nut.
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#7
by
monst
on 06 Jan, 2014 19:53
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Yeah,
Thanks on this the lines
come off real nice ... all unit like and stuff
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#8
by
Derekxj
on 07 Jan, 2014 09:15
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When i did my headgasket, i took them off as one unit no problem, however......putting them back on was another story. hardly ONE of the flares seated nicely. the rest, took quite a bit of force to hold them in place while getting the nut on ( both injector and pump side). Now, i believe i may have a hairline crack on one of the flares on my pump, as the nuts are pretty darn tight and i have a slow fuel drip at the nut. mind you when i reinstalled, i had all of those clamps either extremely loose, or off all-together. I managed to find a guy selling a BRAND NEW set up of lines on ebay. gottem for 50 bucks or so. Now im worried about messing up my new ones!
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#9
by
TylerDurden
on 07 Jan, 2014 09:34
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It shouldn't be a struggle. I put them back in place loosely fitted so they find their natural fall, then line up the flares before tightening the nuts.
Any stress or torque on the lines can result in metal fatigue and stress fractures.
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#10
by
vanbcguy
on 07 Jan, 2014 09:39
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They definitely shouldn't be that difficult to get in to place. If you have leaks there is a good chance that the flare wasn't seated properly when you torqued it down. The clamps can definitely be removed completely during installation and then reinstalled after the lines are seated properly - I like to do mine in two separate sets (front and back) and then put the 4-line clamp on once everything is happy.
If they are leaking it might not be a crack, it might just need to be reseated. Sometimes too after being badly seated you'll have a bit of a ridge on the flare itself. A light polish with some emery cloth or a small file can remove the ridge and fix the sealing issues.
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#11
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 07 Jan, 2014 10:29
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when re-installing lines, don't forget to clean out with brakeclean, and the nozzles too, DoNot over tighten, the seam tends to split rendering that line useless. book calls for something like 18ftlbs, tighten so it doesn't leak and just a little more is good, tyler's storage method is very good, Keep in a clean place.
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#12
by
TylerDurden
on 07 Jan, 2014 12:53
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If you have leaks there is a good chance that the flare wasn't seated properly when you torqued it down.
^^Yup.
Work with surgical sterility if using files/abrasives... a tiny speck can bugger an injector.
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#13
by
Derekxj
on 07 Jan, 2014 12:54
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They definitely shouldn't be that difficult to get in to place. If you have leaks there is a good chance that the flare wasn't seated properly when you torqued it down. The clamps can definitely be removed completely during installation and then reinstalled after the lines are seated properly - I like to do mine in two separate sets (front and back) and then put the 4-line clamp on once everything is happy.
If they are leaking it might not be a crack, it might just need to be reseated. Sometimes too after being badly seated you'll have a bit of a ridge on the flare itself. A light polish with some emery cloth or a small file can remove the ridge and fix the sealing issues.
How do i install the lines in two seperate sets? when you say front and back, you mean front and back, on the pump? or?
I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this. dont want to ruin my brand new lines. Also, what do you gentleman use to tighten up the lines on the back of the pump? even with a short stubby 17mm wrench.........its a nightmare. Any advice?
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#14
by
TylerDurden
on 07 Jan, 2014 13:07
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I take a handful of different 17mm wrenches and use whatever gets the best angle.
