A/C Delete Q's.

[jaed_43725]

I am doing at A/C delete because my A/C tensioner bolt broke and I planned on doing it anyway. So it was a convenient excuse. So I plan on leaving the alternator in the same place except it hangs down and I will use a turnbuckle for tension with the arm the alternator used to attach to. I came across 2 different part numbers (049903119L and 026903119B) for the pulley I need and not sure which is the right one. I did find the correct pulley on a car being worked on at Apex Tuning and that is where I gathered the information on what car the pulley would be on (92 Jetta / Passat 16V 2.0L).

So what I am asking is, is there a difference between the 2? If so which one is the correct one? Will my plan work? Is there a better (i.e. cheaper) way? Will those pulleys even fit on my alternator (85 Jetta TD w/AC (no P/S))? Is it better to get a different alternator with the correct pulley and add the tach connection?

Thank you in advance.

[fatmobile]

Check the FAQs.
 You have the right alternator, belt and bracket,.. pully info is there.

[jaed_43725]

I checked them.  There was no A/C delete info.

[fatmobile]

 I couldn't find it either.
 Try "air conditioning" on vwdieselparts.com
 My username might help the search over there.

[theman53]

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=32520.0

has this link in it...
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7018&p=42317&hilit=alternator+bracket#p42317
Which tells you this...
The pully I used for my swap came from the WAI catalog.
 Part # 24-2106, for the 1/2" belt
 or 24-2105 for the 10mm belt.
 Here's a lame pic of the same setup in my Rabbit:

which is the same as some pulley for a ford truck, I cannot remember the year. I bought one for 8.00 new at the local shop.

[theman53]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-V-GROOVES-PULLEY-USED-ON-FORD-DELCO-HD-ALT-/140814999163?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c93a5e7b&vxp=mtr

This is for the 1/2" belt which is what I recommend if you are doing this with the MK2 a/c alt. If you look at his sale page, the ford part numbers and search that, you maybe able to find better prices.

FWIW the only thing I don't like is the fact that it has no keyway slot. I put mine on and have no issues right now, but if I do I am going to have a slot cut so I can use the factory woodruff key or key stock to make sure it doesn't move off there.

[fatmobile]

 I get the pullys for $20 at the local alternator rebuild shop.

 That FAQ post needs a more searchable title including the words air conditioning.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

I am doing at A/C delete because my A/C tensioner bolt broke and I planned on doing it anyway. So it was a convenient excuse. So I plan on leaving the alternator in the same place except it hangs down and I will use a turnbuckle for tension with the arm the alternator used to attach to. I came across 2 different part numbers (049903119L and 026903119B) for the pulley I need and not sure which is the right one. I did find the correct pulley on a car being worked on at Apex Tuning and that is where I gathered the information on what car the pulley would be on (92 Jetta / Passat 16V 2.0L).

So what I am asking is, is there a difference between the 2? If so which one is the correct one? Will my plan work? Is there a better (i.e. cheaper) way? Will those pulleys even fit on my alternator (85 Jetta TD w/AC (no P/S))? Is it better to get a different alternator with the correct pulley and add the tach connection?

Thank you in advance.

1. Get that double pulley, install it with no shims and the belt will line up.

2. Do not grind so you can use the same belt unless you enjoy a lot more unnecessary work. Just get a longer belt.

3. Do not use an aluminum turnbuckle. Mine stripped the aluminum and became useless. Find a steel one with no play in the threads if you want to use a turnbuckle.

4. Lastly, a turnbuckle on top pulling on the alt is easier to work on than pushing from the bottom.
 
I made a belt tensioner with angle iron brackets and a long bolt after  the aluminum turnbuckle failed and have no more alternator problem since.

Ever

[fatmobile]

 Grinding the bracket allows a shorter belt and less flapping for the same tension,..
 
 and I don't like the way it sticks out so far.
 Less room for belt tensioning without hitting the radiator, a real problem when doing this on a MK1, not so much on the MK2.