Valve Cover washers, rubbers, etc - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Valve Cover washers, rubbers, etc by Gizmoman on 24 Nov, 2013 11:40
• I'm having a tough time sealing my 3 bolt valve cover on the AAZ. I'm not sure but there are some small conical rubber washers that appear to fit over the studs. These seem to fit perfectly into the conical recess on the inside of the covers where the studs go through.
  Then there are some larger conical rubber washers, then three steel cup washers, then the flange nuts.
  
  My question is, are the smaller conical washers needed? It seems they may be holding the cover off the outer flange seat slightly allowing it to leak.
  I have dabbed oil resistant silicone in the corners and tried several different times but it still seems to leak the same.
• #1 by bajacalal on 24 Nov, 2013 20:50
• I don't know about the AAZ but on the cummins 5.9 there are rubber washers that go on the inside of the valve covers and they're referred to as "noise suppressors" in the parts listing or something like that.
• #2 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 25 Nov, 2013 02:57
• VW lists stud M6 x 12 028103531B, sealing furrule 028103532A, then sealing washer 028103533, cover, then concave washer 028103536, then nut, then dust cap
   
  If you have the 8 cover holes, why not go back to the old tin lid?Too retro?
  
  OK, how about machining the 3 studs lower by a mm or two
• #3 by Gizmoman on 25 Nov, 2013 05:35
• Quote from: Mark(The Miser)UK on 25 Nov, 2013 02:57

  VW lists stud M6 x 12 028103531B, sealing furrule 028103532A, then sealing washer 028103533, cover, then concave washer 028103536, then nut, then dust cap
   
  If you have the 8 cover holes, why not go back to the old tin lid?Too retro?
  
  OK, how about machining the 3 studs lower by a mm or two
  

  It is a "tin" lid - three holes. It's in good shape with no bends or tweaks.
  I did it again with a more liberal dab of silicone in the corners of the cam bearings at the front end. Seems to have stopped it.
  I have the arrangement you listed except for the "dust covers"
  
• #4 by Gizmoman on 29 Dec, 2013 10:11
• Reviving this thread cause my "dabs" of silicone at the corners of the cam bearing didn't quite do it - still leaks oil.
  I have the whole thing apart again and cleaned till I could eat off it.
  The leak is from the edge somewhere (possibly around the cam bearing) and because it's a 50* application, it ends up running down the head on the left side (facing the back of the van). Eventually the air blows it everywhere when I'm moving and I have to park it on the street when I visit friends 
  
  Valve cover (perfectly flat using a straightedge)
  
  Here is one of the three studs with the rubber seal.
  
  
  Here is the stud without the seal.
  
  
  I am tempted to leave the stud seals off so all the pressure from the three nuts transfers to the edges. While the flanges are flat, that doesn't mean that the relationship between the conical stud seal faces hasn't been "depressed" over time. This would make the flange higher than it should be when it's all tightened down.
  
  I wish I had drilled and tapped the head for the cast aluminum cover while the engine was out. Now, I doubt it's possible.
  
  Thoughts?
• #5 by bajacalal on 29 Dec, 2013 10:44
• Put a bead of silicone under the gasket "hump" that goes over the first cam bearing, under the whole thing, from one end of the inverted "U" to the other, not just the corners. This has always stopped leaks in that spot for me, at least on the 1.6.
• #6 by Gizmoman on 29 Dec, 2013 10:51
• Quote from: bajacalal on 29 Dec, 2013 10:44

  Put a bead of silicone under the gasket "hump" that goes over the first cam bearing, under the whole thing, from one end of the inverted "U" to the other, not just the corners. This has always stopped leaks in that spot for me, at least on the 1.6.
  

  Do you mean between the cover and the gasket, or between the gasket and the cam bearing hump?
• #7 by Gizmoman on 29 Dec, 2013 12:17
• Oh well, I did both sides as well as a small bead along the entire length of the lower side. I put the three nuts on finger tight and will tighten them fully in a day or two.
  
  If that doesn't do it, Im mixing up some JB weld (kidding - sort of).
• #8 by 745 turbogreasel on 29 Dec, 2013 12:33
• Is your gasket OEM grade?
• #9 by homerj1 on 29 Dec, 2013 12:38
• What about covering the valve cover\gasket with some "stuff" (like bluing ink\grease or what ever) torquing it down, then removing the  gasket\valve cover carefully to see what parts of the above are contacting or not contacting ( based on the imprint) to see where the oil leak is actually occurring?
  
  Or just silicone the crap out of it?
  
  
  Or maybe it is a blow by issue and the pressure & oil is taking the path of least resistance?
  
  Or....  
• #10 by burn_your_money on 29 Dec, 2013 14:46
• Don't try drilling the head out unless you have it on a drill press or better. There is no way you will be able to drill perfectly straight and then getting the valve cover on and off will be a pain if you are using studs.
• #11 by Gizmoman on 29 Dec, 2013 16:31
• Thanks all,
  I just did what I said earlier.
  I'll let it set for a day or two, finish tightening and hopefully be good.
  
  8-V, id never attempt drilling and tapping it now
  
  Thanks