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'81 Rabbit Pickup garage-find; very rough start. IP settings
by
vortexblue
on 13 Oct, 2013 16:03
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I have recently acquired an 81 Rabbit Pickup that has been sitting for 8 years or so in a garage. I bought it as a non-op, and had it towed here. The PO said the truck was driven into the garage (daily driver before that), and it was going to be an electric car project that never materialized.
Once I got the truck, I:
-removed/ cleaned/ painted fuel tank
-ran new fuel lines
-rebuilt injectors (thanks to Vince Waldon's great site)
-new timing belt and tensioner
-set valves
-swapped to rubber VC gasket and cam splash guard
-new oil/ oil filter/ air filter/ fuel filter
-set pump timing to factory (see pics .036")
I pulled fuel from the tank to the inlet line, then connected the hose. I cracked the connectors on the injectors and used the starter until I saw diesel leaking from that fitting. I tightened the fittings and started the truck.
It runs *very* poorly. The throttle position does not make a difference. It runs as if on 2 cylinders. Pulling the CS line does change the idle slightly, but it is still poor with no throttle change.
I've attached a pic of my pump. It says "095" on it... should I give this pump timing a shot? Any downsides to attempting that?
Any other thoughts?
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#1
by
TylerDurden
on 13 Oct, 2013 18:59
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Greetings,
Got clear lines in and out?... Any bubbles, in or out?
Any smoke?
What pressure did the injectors pop at?
What's the compression?
First check is for bubbles, clear lines are a must. Next I would probably advance the timing.
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#2
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 19:23
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also after troubleshooting bubbles, cracking injector lines at injectors while running will tell you which cylinders are not firing. then compression check.
nice looking ride!
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#3
by
ORCoaster
on 13 Oct, 2013 20:45
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Picture must be in the middle of the repaint job. Otherwise door handle is new security feature. And the sideview mirror must be a stick on to the vent window you apply just as the cops pull you over for not having the necessary safety equipment on it.
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#4
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Oct, 2013 21:46
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lol,g1
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#5
by
vortexblue
on 13 Oct, 2013 22:27
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Thanks for the quick replies!
I've been a member here since '04-05; I had a diesel Jetta coupe back then. Still, 4 posts. Lol.
-I did remove the handles and mirrors to give them a coat of paint. The truck paint was saved - that's original paint!
Here's how I picked it up before buffing:
-I do not have clear lines yet, I have the german 7mm braided stuff. I'll pick up some clear this week from one of the local motorcycle-atv shops.
-My compression tester is a screw-in type for gas engines; I don't think it's going to work for this engine. I'll swing by Harbor Freight this week to pick up the push-in style-- that's the one I need, right?
-I also do not have a pop tester for the injectors. I just rebuilt them with out testing (flying blind).
-Sounds like I'm going to have to get more heat shields to pull the injectors again.
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#6
by
ORCoaster
on 13 Oct, 2013 23:44
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Harbor Fright Diesel compression kit is about 40 bucks. Wish I could loan you mine and save you the cost. Heat sheilds can be reformed. Search this forum for how. Plenty of discussion in the recent past.
Nice find by the way. I can't recall ever seeing a baby blue one before. My brother painted a 67 Valiant that color once. Very stylin.
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#7
by
TylerDurden
on 14 Oct, 2013 08:07
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Nice ride.
While you're out shopping, you might get some Diesel Purge (or a can of naptha and some ATF) to clean the injection system.
I recommend making a pop tester (DIY info is around the webz). Having matched injectors allows fine tuning.
Reforming heatshields is fine, IMO. I also keep a few sets handy for quick changes when testing and reform them during downtime.
The primary suspect for poor running is air in the IP, it can come from leaky lines, fuel restriction, bad IP seals. Best test is clear lines running to/from a clean container.
The next suspect is static timing, which is dependent injector break-pressure. High break injectors open later, so advancing timing can compensate.
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#8
by
srgtlord
on 14 Oct, 2013 08:57
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My bet is on a leaky pump mainshaft seal allowing air to enter ther system, especially since the pump had been sitting for awhile
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#9
by
ORCoaster
on 14 Oct, 2013 23:44
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I would tend to agree with you on the front seal but most often we seem to see those cold start seals go out first.
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#10
by
vortexblue
on 02 Nov, 2013 23:37
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I installed the clear lines. There was a ton of air in it.
After purging it all the visible bubbles out, I started the truck. It ran the same at first, then cleared up and was able to idle and rev freely.
I've let it sit for a few days while I take care of the lower control arms and brakes. I'll report back if it stumbles again after I put it back on its wheels.
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#11
by
fatmobile
on 05 Nov, 2013 00:14
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Niiice,... glad to hear it's revving.
Might have had some stuck vanes that loosened up.