First Piston Ring Install...quick question

[casanis]

Hi All,

Quick question regarding piston ring installation.

Disclaimer: I have never used a piston ring compressor. Seems easy enough after watching youtube vids etc.

Bores honed - original pistons have been cleaned and the the rings are waiting to go on. I've verified the gap is within spec for new rings within the bores 5/8" down.

What is the process of placing rings on piston and installing into the bore? Do you keep everything clean and dry or do you use assembly lube on the rings, grooves and/or bores? Bores are currently coated in wd40 to stop any rust from forming on bare metal.

Does the completed piston get placed in the ring compressor and gently slide into bore, or will some persuasion be required?

Apologies if this seems like an obvious answer to anyone. I have a lot of time into this engine and would hate to mess something up at this stage.

Cheers, Adam.

[ORCoaster]

Sir,  The rings go on one way only.  In the package that mine were wrapped in they had the end view and it showed the top stamped in tiny letters on each one so it was hard to mess it up if you paid attention.  Something you are already doing.  The thickness of the rings is different for the three and the oil scrapper has a wire that you need to get in there as well. 

Rings don't bend much more than the outside of the piston without snapping so go easy on them.  I make sure the old pistons are very clean of soot, carbon or oil build up using a ring groove cleaner.  Basically a very specific width scrapper.  Most auto parts stores rent these and the compressor. 

Rings go on so that the openings don't all line up in one spot.  I have not seen much discussion between making them be 180 degrees to each other or just every 120 degrees around the pistion. 

I coat them with a light coat of oil and when actually tapping the piston into the bore it seems you have to have three hands or more to do it.  I use a piece of wood about a foot long and 1 inch square on the end.  Soft taps and don't force anything.  The last compressor I had wouldn't keep the tension on the band well and I had to hold the wrench on the band clamp and a buddy did the tapping. 

If they pretty much don't go down easy there is a reason and you need to check it, I don't remember them being that tight going in.


Now you also have to watch the bottom end so that the rod goes over the crank and not into it.  I generally rotate the crank so that the lower part of the cylinder I am working on is at the lowest point.  And that gives me room to get the piston in there and then swind the crank up to the bottom of the rod and put the cap on it with out seating it real tight.  Just enough to allow it to pull the piston up and down for the next one I work on.  The bottom end adjustment comes later.

Is that enough to get you started?

Easy does it.

[casanis]

Awesome info. Thanks very much - looking forward to getting this put together in the next few days off of work...

[homerj1]

I'm surprised that there is no piston ring end  gap positioning degrees. As it is very common on other engines, sometimes very specific.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=piston+ring+end+gap+position&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=mCdPUvz6HYrhygHTuoHwDQ&ved=0CCwQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=955&dpr=1

Although I did find this a while ago,

Piston Rings
 Measure ring end gap. Measure ring side clearance with
piston. If not within specification, replace as necessary. See
PISTONS, PINS & RINGS table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS. Install rings
on piston with TOP mark facing upward. Recessed edge on outside of
center ring must face position pin (down). Position ring gaps on
piston at 120 degree intervals. See Fig. 11. Ensure no ring gap aligns
with piston pin.


Here on pg 15 ..

http://vwts.ru/engine/alh_aaz_ahh_ahu_1z_1_9.pdf