FWIW, swapping out an AAZ to install a 2.5 Subaru engine sounds like a downgrade to me. I haven't driven the 2.5 but I've driven a 2.2 Subaru and my tuned 1.6TD did better. In stock form, tho, the AAZ is de-tuned fairly significantly. The syncro drive train sits 1-1/2" lower than the 2WD. Regardless, even with 100% stock diesel mount geometry on a 2WD Vanagon, the aneroid on the injection pump does not protrude above the tops of the ribs of the engine lid. Here is a pic of the engine lid of an AAZ conversion that I did to a 2WD Vanagon:I cut out a rectangular section of the lid and used a piece of sheet metal to cover the rectangle. The sheet metal is resting right on top of the ribs and so raises the lid the thickness of the sheet metal (<1/16"). On a syncro there would be enough extra space to add another 3/4" of sound insulation to the bottom of the stock lid before there was any interference... As far as bolting up to a Syncro, yes, using the tiico adapter plate (or the diesel vanagon bell housing on the syncro trans) it will bolt up fine @ 50°. I'm not particularly familiar with the Tiico adapter so I can't comment on whether or not it is better than the KEP. I'd be tempted to go to the stock diesel-vanagon bell housing. I'm also not familiar with the starter that comes with the Tiico kit. Will it crank over the AAZ (400psi+ compression) fast enough?Get rid of the long plumbing of the Saab intercooler. Why did they place it on the passenger side? That long run adds lag with no benefit. It's better to locate the air filter to the passenger side because you would not be adding lag on a long run from the air filter. You'd just need large enough diameter tubing to be sure it wasn't restrictive. If you go with a d-pillar air-to-air system, don't vent it into the wheel well area like that. Everyone who I have talked to who has done it that way has had mediocre results at best. The d-pillar vent and wheel well area are both high pressure areas and so opening the d-pillar to the wheel well effectively stops airflow through the d-pillar. The engine compartment, on the other hand, is low pressure and so venting the air into the engine compartment results in better airflow and a more effective air-to-air install. You might consider an air-to-water intercooler instead in order to keep the oil cooler on the pass side d-piller and the air cleaner on the driver's side d-pillar. A well balanced air-to-water system will do a better job cooling the charge air and will add less intake volume (less lag). It does add some cost and complexity, tho.The pics show factory carrier bars, but the left one has been cut and welded. It looks like that cut and weld on the DS would raise the engine. K03 turbo is very small. It becomes an exhaust restriction at higher rpms even at stock boost pressures. 15 psi on a K14 is noticeably more power. On the good side, tho, it is insta-boost and so gives decent off-the-line performance which might be more desirable in a syncro than top-end performance.
HiIts a common swap on this side of the pond, it may be slightly more difficult as you don't seem to have access to as many parts in the scrap yards (I think you call them bone yards)as we do.Take a look at the "Brickyard" web site, scroll to the Diesel upgrade section and enjoy a couple of hours reading with a beer.http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/t3-diesel-upgrades_forum21.htmlThanks for the linkgood luck
How many HP are these good for?
Quote from: JimEG on October 06, 2013, 10:06:57 amHow many HP are these good for?Looks like they double it - great find!
What does this do?
