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Author Topic: R5 TDi...  (Read 9213 times)

Reply #15November 08, 2013, 07:15:30 pm

vanbcguy

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2013, 07:15:30 pm »
Oh okay, I'm sure I spoke to them before. what brand are they and price, do you know yet?
DSS said 285 Euro delivered, which frankly i can't afford right now  :-[ and I'm kinda wary due to there only being an email address, no website or anything for them.
Darkside do .260, .275 and .315  :o and they'll fit and test them too i believe. What sort of Hp's you aiming for then? I assume yours is a 4 cyl, didn't read your build very thoroughly i must admit.

They have their own "brand" but I've heard they are the same as the ones that Darkside is selling.  Darkside have NO STOCK on any of their larger nozzles right now, nor did Ryan have an ETA for when he expected to see more, hence I decided to keep looking elsewhere.

I think the price was £40/each so £160, plus calibration.  Haven't seen the actual price though - Keith was going to see if he has anything suitable first, then get back to me next week.

I'm aiming for around 200HP give or take.  Ryan at Darkside was recommending a .275 for me but they just aren't available anywhere right now.

I will definitely be taking an interest when you start doing the e-vnt-controller.
I'm useless at stuff like that, and designed a mechanical controller but no idea how i'd run two VNT's mechanically(and well!)
Could this be used to map a pair of 'outputs' d'you think? should probably ask the man himself!

It definitely could map a pair though it would be a little trickier.  The code is already set up to control two different solenoids (he intended the second one to be for the LDA), and the second one is set up to be controlled by a combination of MAP and RPM.  Really though I'm not sure if you'd need to run two VNT turbos - you'd really want an external wastegate for the smaller one from what I've seen in the way of other people's compound builds.  Otherwise the small turbo acts as a choke point in the exhaust.  Beyond my paygrade either way!!

aye hopefully the pump side won't be too complicated or expensive

sounds like a good plan, i'm 'assuming' mine will be alright on what's in there as it's allegedly a 75k motor!

Yeah - these engines eat valve guides so if you have the head off it'd be wise to have them replaced either way.  Mine was at about 150,000 km so still under 100,000 miles and the valve guides were all out of spec.  Yours probably are too.
Bryn

1994 Jetta - AHU M-TDI - Jezebel Jetta
2004 Jetta Wagon - 1.8T - Blitzen

Reply #16November 11, 2013, 02:16:25 pm

Henk

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #16 on: November 11, 2013, 02:16:25 pm »
oh okay, darkside's are Hflo-X i believe, heard good things about them.
Damn that's crap, although I won't be doing engine mods for a while yet
That's a good price though
.275 sounds huge for only 200hp! .240 would be plenty i would've thought

Pretty much just what i've been thinking too, about running just the one VNT
http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/products/r2s.aspx is a nice staged method. Not awfully complicated I don't think, but should make some pretty sweet results
I think this is pretty much what BMW have on some of their diesels, no VNTs, 42 PSI at like 1800 rpm or something ridiculous

Quote
For engines where performance is a key consideration, the TwoStage system usually combines a high pressure VNT with a low pressure wastegate turbo
according to Honeywell/Garrett, which confuses things a bit.
http://turbo.honeywell.com/our-technologies/twostage-parallel-turbochargers/
their parallel setup looks good too, and good numbers, although possibly a bit funky to tune??

Most interesting
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Reply #17November 14, 2013, 04:13:03 pm

R.O.R-2.0

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #17 on: November 14, 2013, 04:13:03 pm »
To all you guys in North America, sorry ;)
Right so I got a Volvo V70 a few weeks back, 140hp/290nm Audi inline 5 2.5L and it goes fantastically, blows any 4 cyl tdi i've had out of the water.
Sadly i'm having a real hard time trying to find a donor so I can use the same engine in the caddy.
Does anyone know if the VW LT engine is the same, and will bolt up to an Audi longitudinal 'box?
Do i need a different 'box, the one i have at the moment is attached to a 1Z that i need rid of, code on it is WW0 3 - 012 301 103 J ?
So far the ideal donor i believe would be an Audi 100 or C4 A6, for gearbox and engine?

And when i finally source another, i'll probably mech pump it with one of the 300tdi pumps i have, then looking to twin turbo it one way or another
but i still have all that fun ahead of me!

Idk where you got your info, but the Volvo doesnt use an Audi engine.. it uses a Volvo engine, that was co-designed by Porsche..

the VW LT28 (D24T) engine is the same bolt pattern as the Audi 2.0L 5cyl TD and the Audi 5 cyl gassers of the same era..

the 1Z 4 cyl trans you have, wont bolt up to an Audi 5 cylinder. and it REALLY wont bolt up to a Volvo 5 cyl..

Again, the Volvo engine is a "White Block" 5 cylinder.. a joint venture between Volvo, and Porsche..
92 Jetta GLI - Black, 1.6D w/ GT2056V turbo..
86 GTI - 4 Door, Med Twilight Gray, Tow Machine..
86 Audi Coupe GT - Tornado Red, All Stock.. WRECKED.
89 Toyota 4Runner - Dark Grey Metallic, LIFTED!

Turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.

Reply #18November 14, 2013, 04:27:07 pm

Henk

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #18 on: November 14, 2013, 04:27:07 pm »
uh i hate to be a smartarse...


It's an AEL I believe, the same as the D5252t. Volvo just 'borrowed' it for the late 850's and v70 phase 1 (like my daily :D)

I was advised (on this thread?) that the gearbox was drilled to fit the audi engine (as the 2.5 was used in the Audi 100 in their funny longitudinal layout)
perhaps thinking of newer V70 engine, eg the D5? you guys never got these cars did you?

Anyway it goes together okay, but i'm going to have to make an adapter to turn the engine 24 degrees counterclockwise to bring it vertical-er.
Never done that before, going to have a go measuring up the gearbox holes tomorrow. I think starter/flywheel and stuff will be the biggest challenge design-wise
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Reply #19November 14, 2013, 06:11:09 pm

745 turbogreasel

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #19 on: November 14, 2013, 06:11:09 pm »
Before Volvo came out with their commonrail D5 motor, they  did use the VAG 2.5 TDI  5 cyl, as found in LT trucks(where they have a nongitudal transmission, (Getrag?).
These have the same  basic architecture and bellhousing pattern as the D24 or D20 or Audi gas  5cyl.

to confuse things further, a D5 automotive motor is a D3 Penta marine motor.

Reply #20November 14, 2013, 06:54:58 pm

snakemaster

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #20 on: November 14, 2013, 06:54:58 pm »
Looking good , i have Mtdi one , but going to make up a nother pump and stick it on my t4 2.5 tdi 102hp , biger injectors and hopping for 150hp , i have 2 2.5 tdi engines stashed under my bench from volvos , and a spare head to , a disco pump has the right nose to fit just got to grind of the wee lug at the top, pullys line up but it turns CW and the 5 pot turns CCW , so not shure if you have to change the vain pump from one to the other , and other bits for the advance
Glenmorangie  single highland malt

Reply #21November 16, 2013, 01:51:11 pm

Henk

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #21 on: November 16, 2013, 01:51:11 pm »
The gearbox is made to fit both engines, as the mountings aren't the same as the 4cyl.
Making the adaptor is proving to be a hell of a job with all the measurements so far!
Would love some input if anyone's made one before.

Ahh so that's where all the 2.5TDi engines are then!
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Reply #22November 16, 2013, 02:19:54 pm

theman53

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #22 on: November 16, 2013, 02:19:54 pm »
I have made an adapter. It seems to me to all come down to measurements. I made all my measurements from the center of the crankshaft outward for both bell housing patterns. Takes time but once you make 4 out of plexiglass/lexan then you should be ready to move onto the real deal.

Reply #23November 28, 2013, 04:59:58 am

Henk

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Re: R5 TDi...
« Reply #23 on: November 28, 2013, 04:59:58 am »
Im leaning towards just buying a plate, machining a centre hole for the input shaft and punching through the holes. Turn the gearbox about by 20odd degrees and redo. Then drill and tap the holes as necesary.
I can turn some punch guides for the gearbox holes.
Should be near enough?
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