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#45
by
theman53
on 26 Jun, 2013 15:52
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The spec is not measured at idle, IIRC it is something like 28psi hot @2000 rpm.
I don't think vw actually cares what it is at idle as long as there is something there.
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#46
by
VTPSD
on 26 Jun, 2013 16:11
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do you know if spec is measured at head or at filter area?
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#47
by
8v-of-fury
on 26 Jun, 2013 21:43
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That spec is at the head, with the oil at operating temps.
VW doesn't have an idle spec, as long as the head port sees more than 5psi ALL THE TIME it is good to go. You get 40psi while cruising? You're sailing.
What oil do you have in there? I don't really like the idea of the 20w50, for the 20w part.. the 20w on a cold start (not cold temps just not a hot engine) you could see like 150 psi with that!
I see 70+psi at idle and 80+psi just off idle on a cold start (25c ambient) at the head on 15w40.
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#48
by
VTPSD
on 27 Jun, 2013 09:07
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I moved my gauge to the oil filter gauge down to the lower port. Still has low pressure. Barely 10psi at idle, maybe less when hot. Still cruises at about 20 when hot. Bummer. I took the timing belt off and played with the IM. Doesnt seem to have any strange play. I couldnt find any flecks in my oil last time I drained it. Going to replace oil with fresh and fresh filter. Is there anything else I can check before I give in and tear the motor all the way down. Is there a seal in the Vacuum pump that could leak oil pressure? The slot that drives the oil pump is worn like a bow tie. Can this cause issues? Wish I had never messed with it, just driving it and turned up the music!!
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#49
by
theman53
on 27 Jun, 2013 09:18
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bow tie slot is normal. There is a seal inside that gear area of the vacuum pump that could help you. Could be numerous things, if you didn't pull the im shaft out then you can't rule out the bearings.
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#50
by
VTPSD
on 27 Jun, 2013 09:30
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i will check vacuum seal. Seems like IM shaft bearings are most likely culprit. Looks like that is a motor pulling job. I am going to try and rule out any other small thing, and then have to start planning on a tear down. Kind of lame, got way to much other stuff to do in the summer season. Dont have time to be wrenching on my daily every single day.
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#51
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 27 Jun, 2013 09:38
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make sure the oil pressure gauge you used is accurate before tearing into it.
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#52
by
VTPSD
on 27 Jun, 2013 14:30
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guess i dont really know if its accurate. Could pressurize it with my compressor and regulator set at a certain psi. Strange thing is, buzzer and oil pressure light work, and the only time i have ever seen either come on is when cornering left very very hard (i.e. tires breaking free) while ripping over a mountain pass and a quart low on oil. The lights never on even under the hottest idle? Bugger. Should change oil and just drive. Probably go another 100k with the radio up. Im just not that kind of pearson
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#53
by
wolf_walker
on 27 Jun, 2013 18:04
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Probably go another 100k with the radio up.
Most likely so if it's stock and you keep the oil changes up with good oil.
15w40 Rotella or the like for me, coast to coast, drive easy when it's cold, let the turbo
cool when it's hot, on and on they go. And use a Mann/Mahle or other known good filter.
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#54
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 27 Jun, 2013 22:42
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What is the range of your gauge? A gauge is most accurate in the middle of the scale. Try a 0-30 psi gauge for high pressure and a 0-15 psi gauge for idle pressure. Get the oil up to temp before hooking up the gauge so you don't peg them with cold oil.
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#55
by
VTPSD
on 28 Jun, 2013 08:51
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gauge is 0-100 psi, no worries about pegging it with my engine the way it is now. When cold it might get up to 60psi. At least for the last 100k miles the car has been on a strict diet of 15w40 rotella T with mahle filters, and that is what I have continued to use for it. Its been very well taken car of by a vw diesel nerd of many decades. I think its most likely that my curiosity will get the best of me and I will have to pull the motor and replace the main bearings and intermediate shaft bearings and perhaps oil pump/pump bushing. Its just really hard to climb that mountain in the morning and watch the boost gauge be at 10psi and the oil pressure at 15psi......seems bad.
Another thing I noticed with the lifters. The lifters seem to be more noisy on the driver side of the head. The old ones have a bit of circular wear at that side as well. The new lifter that wont shut up also seems to be on that side of the head. I wonder if that means something on the driver side of the block is spilling out more oil pressure. Im just to curious not to find out.
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#56
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 28 Jun, 2013 10:43
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I also have a 0-100 psi gauge I installed a while ago. At rest, the needle does not sit at zero, super accurate yeah
. I meant to check it with a 0-15 psi gauge for hot idle but never got around to it. I'm gonna do it soon!
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#57
by
VTPSD
on 02 Jul, 2013 20:12
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another update:
-took my vac pump out and apart. It looked fine,the oil seal at the end of the shaft appeared to be in tact. Maybe a bid old, but nothing that would be causing my massive pressure loss.
-messed around with the oil pump shaft. The bushing seems nice and tight at the top. I did twist it back and forth a bit and there seems to be quite a bit of play before i can feel the gears touch each other. I think I am feeling gear backlash, and it seems like quite a bit. Bentely specs between 2 and 8 thou. I know people say these pumps never wear out, but it does feel a bit loosey goosey. Is the ABA pump the one with the larger gears? Price seems about the same, is this worth a try?
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#58
by
VTPSD
on 02 Jul, 2013 20:48
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can anyone direct me to where I might find the oil seal that lives in the bottom of the vacuum pump shaft. Might as well change that out and see what happens.
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#59
by
TylerDurden
on 02 Jul, 2013 21:35
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I think it's # 068145117B
IIRC, I got mine from the dealer. ~$10