1.9 AAZ engine mount angle (when it's not 50)

[Gizmoman]

I am working on a catch-can/hockey puck replacement for my 1.9 AAZ and am curious about what angle the engine "normally" sat at in a standard application - a Jetta or Passat for example.

Also, if anyone knows the history of how the 50 degree application came about, that would be nice to know as well.
I'm guessing that the 1.6 was the stock vanagon diesel engine and the odd pan fits the 1.9 block. Were there any 1.9 vanagons sold by VW - possibly in Europe or Canada?

Any info appreciated.
Thanks,

[Gizmoman]

Oh well,
Dumb question I guess.

[8v-of-fury]

The stock Jetta Golf stuff is 15* isn't it??

[Gizmoman]

Thanks 8V, that helps

[JamesT]

1.6N/A was the first 50° motor. When they offered the 1.6TD in Europe, North America got a 1.7N/A that was only used in Vanagons.

1.9N/A or TD weren't offered in Vanagons, but T4's got them.

[Gizmoman]

1.6N/A was the first 50° motor. When they offered the 1.6TD in Europe, North America got a 1.7N/A that was only used in Vanagons.

1.9N/A or TD weren't offered in Vanagons, but T4's got them.

Thanks James.
I am wondering if there were any changes made to the block/valve cover vent plumbing or "hockey puck" in the T4.
I am removing the stock hockey puck as it interferes a bit with my inter-cooler and I also don't want the blow-by gasses  going back into my turbo intake. The system may have worked well at 15 but at 50 (in the T4) they (VW) may have changed something.

I'll do some searches on a T4 and see if I can find any info.

[Gizmoman]

Hmmm - I don't think the T4 had the 1.9 TD engine at 50 - least not as far as I can tell in the photos I can find.

It's rather simple I guess, just make a catch can and hose the valve cover and block vents into it (removing the hockey puck). Vent the air through some sort of filter and drain the condensed oil back into the block.

I've already done a bunch of "catch-can" reading - just a bit worried about deleting the hockey-puck completely. I believe it's only there to vent the block back to the intake. It would close should there be vacuum issue (possibly a plugged air filter).
I'm not going to the intake and will vent to the atmosphere.

[libbydiesel]

The puck is also a centrifugal oil separator.  For vanagon installs, I have used the 1.6 pucks above the block port and then installed a tee under the single entry port to go up to the valve cover.  That way the puck is level and drains easily into the block.  The puck also theoretically closes if the block becomes pressure difference between block and intake becomes significant and so it theoretically prevents runaway.  I would not recommend running without the puck.   

[Gizmoman]

Thanks libby, I was hoping you'd chime in
I can't quite figure out how the puck would close off as I can't get it to respond to  blowing or sucking on it  - mmm - tasty;D
There is a light spring inside and a sort of baffle disc - it must take quite a differential to get it to close.

Any idea where I might find a 1.6 puck and do you have any photos of the setup you're describing?

[Gizmoman]

Jim Ellis wants 80+ for one
I've put a WTB post in the proper section but I'm still not sure I need one.

I am curious as to your opinion on what it actually does (I've read several but am not quite convinced).
If I vent "clean air" to atmosphere, the pressure will always be positive from the engine. What I'm trying to do is keep crud out of my laminova fins in the WAIC.

I suppose I could add a port to the intake on the post laminova core side but I'd rather not.

[Rock3tman]

take a look at the specifications for the Mann + Hummel "Provent 200"...it's got ~.75" I.D. fittings at the inlet and outlet so there should be very little resistance to back pressure, taking into account the intake vacuum.  I'd plumb it so the cleaned fumes are routed back to the intake post-aircleaner & pre-turbo, and catch the crud (it has water in it) to drain overboard periodically.   Your AWIC/intake deserves it.

[Gizmoman]

take a look at the specifications for the Mann + Hummel "Provent 200"...it's got ~.75" I.D. fittings at the inlet and outlet so there should be very little resistance to back pressure, taking into account the intake vacuum.  I'd plumb it so the cleaned fumes are routed back to the intake post-aircleaner & pre-turbo, and catch the crud (it has water in it) to drain overboard periodically.   Your AWIC/intake deserves it.

Wow - nice unit and I like the large ports. We're on the same page regarding sending the stuff into the intake. It took hours to clean inside the manifold and I only really got it clean after I cut it in half to build the WAIC

It is expensive though and it also requires the 30 dollar filters to be changed (don't know the intervals though).  If I were to get it, I'd also need a #8 AN "T" with two males and one female swivel. Then I could tap into my turbo drain line at the pan. Summit wants 35 bucks for that fitting and I would need other fittings as well. I can see this thing getting into the 300 dollar range.

I really wish I know more about the crankcase vent concept.

I know the oil gets hot enough to boil water, and there is definitely water in there if just from condensation. So now you have steam with some oil/carbon trapped in it. Steam means pressure and it has to be relieved otherwise the seals would blow.

But the stock hockey puck has a valve that protects against something that "may" happen - what that is I'm not sure. The pro-vent seems to have a similar device as well - there is something to it, just wish I knew what it was.

[vanbcguy]

The "what" is a runaway due to the engine burning its own oil as fuel. The cam baffle and hockey puck are both there to prevent that from happening. A diesel doesn't much care if it is burning engine oil or diesel fuel, it'll rev as high as the volume of fuel it receives allows.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Gizmoman]

The "what" is a runaway due to the engine burning its own oil as fuel. The cam baffle and hockey puck are both there to prevent that from happening. A diesel doesn't much care if it is burning engine oil or diesel fuel, it'll rev as high as the volume of fuel it receives allows.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Agreed, but if I don't run back to the intake and vent to atmosphere, I don't see how it would receive the crankcase oil to run away. Possibly having the crankcase and the valve cover "connected" would do it though.

[libbydiesel]

If you don't run back to the intake it will not runaway from the crank vent.  I don't care for the stink, mess and routine maintenance of a catch can, tho.