brake booster

[air-cooled or diesel]

what I have is a $99 brake booster replacement. im not going to comment on china parts, though this seems like it may be. I think it is a $99 part though, iirc.
well as it goes, I need to know if the rod that comes out of the back of the booster to the pedal is adjustable. as it turns out the rod is some what off, and pushes too far into the master cylinder, and the seal at the back of the master cyl is going to go (further/all the way)soon.
not to say I have brake fluid in the booster, though it will be a while before it rusts.

[Dakotakid]

Sure, you can always get a hacksaw and a welder and adjust that back rod.
But, the one I would adjust is the rod exiting the front of the booster into the back of the master. Of course, I do things kind of differently.....

[air-cooled or diesel]

Sure, you can always get a hacksaw and a welder and adjust that back rod.

haharealfunny. but really, adjusting the front of the rod where it 'activates' master cylinder is my best bet, but realistically im looking for another one for a good price that actually works correctly.
I do doubt the rod is adjustable by turning, I thought i'd ask, as I have no other realistic options. its 1/2" off (apx).

[air-cooled or diesel]

now I see it may be adjusted, not as I (first) had hoped, not that it would have worked as its in car still.
looks like it will take special tool, and I need some info on how to do adjusting.

oh by the way it came from parts place, and (rod)was/is a little forward of pedal /pin attachment, making me think the rod is pushing too far into master cyl.

[air-cooled or diesel]

Sure, you can always get a hacksaw and a welder and adjust that back rod.
But, the one I would adjust is the rod exiting the front of the booster into the back of the master. Of course, I do things kind of differently.....

not that I don't like ur work/ideas, I do some of the same too,.

[air-cooled or diesel]

so I don't know yet, better explain of story.;
original brake booster rusted out, pedal at idle was hard like no boost, when you reved it had boost.
so as the story goes. so I bought a $99 booster from parts place. I don't know the quality, origin of manufacture. seems ok. cleaned up stuff, bracket and nuts, put in w/blue loc-tite.
when coming out broke vac line; rigged up a adaptor small and clamped at vac line, adaptor to adaptor at booster, rtv at that connection. is holding fine, no apparent leaks. (both) have a lot of vac-, boost.
so as the story goes; the brake pedal to the brake light switch needed a shim, crazy glued it. had brake lights on/off, and -on w/o brake,(lights). works normally except needed a shim. all parts original (?mostly?). (so most/all parts are going on 30 years old). the only thing is pedal is not lining up with stock position. the only thing at that/this time is pedal is ,?forward?, about 1/8 (~)". apx.
so I bleed brakes. all other and mechanical parts tend to be new/ like, or near new. such as master cyl., pads, shoes, cyls and even possibly calipers. not extremely good quality, but good quality. most are in the $20 range, and most likely are like beck/arnley quality. shoes; average/better than avg quality, pads are semi-metallic. new springs(rear); etc.

  so..,,,  I bleed, I have a lot of brake, I hook up vac line, as I said before, rtv sets. I end up having a lot of boost. at this time and even now, with out vac, pedal is hard, may be moving very slowly to floor, cannt be sure though.    -with vac, lots of boost, pedal goes faster towards floor. after 8 months (8-10mo.) I get the news.   -the 1 thing I did was replace left-rear brake line, non-stock length, 1 month ago I had it shortened to apx right length.-   ]-[so the bad news is master cyl is leaking at rear.  ]-[so all connections, and vac seem sealed,. so brake fluid is coming out of the rear of master cyl, down booster, I was filling with brake fluid, 1 per week for a while, more recently was topping off more. I use valvo-synthetic, dot3/4, brake fluid. have a container in my car to top off.
-so the pedal shim I used was apx(~)1/8", crazy glued to pedal to reach brake light switch.
-so I was very worried at this point. did this work;  ]-[/used booster, new beck/arnely master cyl. bleed brakes. booster was used and rusty, cleaned up some, sprayed w/rust proof. mounted, snug/ tight (about 20lbs/ft, all nuts, cleaned up).  -no boost, pedal is normal, possibly going to floor very slightly. -boost with a adaptor;
  -adaptor(I should have used brass), plumbing small/to adaptor to bigger, threaded, used rtv on threads(sets up, and-)-grinded to a good fit; to vac line; in tight, with clamp; to booster good fit, rtv, sets up 30-40 hrs at 60-80 deg. test; brakes no vac; tight, maybe going to floor, almost not noticeable, -with vac; lots of vac, pedal to floor noticeably. lots of brake fluid streaming down front of booster. coming out of rear of master cyl, past vac rear seal (rear master cyl.). -so I go to hardware store, I get a adaptor, plastic, to reduce vac, [i-[/i[/2-3 things, push in to vac/boost adaptor, at boost, large end. about -1/8-1/4" diam. so im getting less boost.
  [[i-[/i[/I hope I'm not loading up vac pump/oil pump, IM shaft, etc(some).
so..,,,I have medium boost, less leaking, and pedal is slower going down. loosing some brake fluid at same place(rear if master cyl, down booster).(high tight pedal,w/some boost, med, less than medium boost)
-the 1 thing about used, rusty/cleaned, sprayed booster. I measured at 2 points the shafts. the inside shaft, both -$99 booster, and, -used booster, measured same(rough measurement). -the thing, the rear to pedal shaft, -$99 booster, 1/8-1/16" longer(towards pedal, brake light switch), -used booster, was in, so I now need a bigger shim. so $99 (parts place) booster is back to pedal about, 1/8-1/16",(rough measurement).
-I don't have original booster to compare.
thxs,guys,.
ac-d.
srry for so much bold, I didn't intend, and am not correcting right now, srry, ok.
ok, I fixed (some,)let me check,
well some extra italics, ok
ok,better, bear w/me w/B and I, ok,.