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installed a turbo pump on eco diesel won't start
by
trent77
on 11 May, 2013 19:13
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ok, Maybe I completely messed up, you be the judge. I got the turbo pump installed, I did not realize that the injection lines for turbo pumps were different lengths than the originals. So I removed the fuel delivery valves from the eco pump and one from the "new" pump. I left all of the internals in the pump and checked the springs and they are identical, so I swapped the longer housing to the turbo pump and hooked the lines up. It seemed perfect, but I have never timed a pump before and it will stumble but not start. any help? Thanks
Trent
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#1
by
TylerDurden
on 11 May, 2013 20:02
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If the pump is "known good", I'd crank that rig with the nuts loose at the injectors and WOT to verify fuel at each injector (not gonna run). If that's good, then tighten up, set timing to spec to begin... fine tune after it's running.
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#2
by
trent77
on 11 May, 2013 20:08
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what is WOT?
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#3
by
bajacalal
on 11 May, 2013 20:19
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Wide Open Throttle, which doesn't really exist on a diesel. Basically, mash the throttle, so that you're getting full fuel delivery, which should purge the air out of the pump and let you know it's actually getting fuel through.
Air can be compressed, diesel is a liquid, can't be compressed. So the diesel will open the injectors, but air won't and you wont get air out of the system unless you give it a place to go.
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#4
by
trent77
on 12 May, 2013 04:26
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forgot to mention, before I ever did the pump swap I had the car idling and it had been for 5-10 minutes and then it just stopped dead. the starter would turn over the engine, but it would not start. The injection pump was a bit of a drooler, so I attributed it to that. Now i'm not so sure..
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#5
by
damac
on 12 May, 2013 09:26
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Did you use the same out bolt?
Take that off and make sure the little hole is cleaned out. Also check your fuel lines on car for restrictions and make sure your fuel filter is good.
I had those kind of problems recently where the car would start and slowly choke itself until it came up to temp. And restriction would get so bad it would not hot restart right away without relieving pressure in the system.
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#6
by
Toby
on 12 May, 2013 14:45
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Are you sure the pump was running on another engine recently? All dino diesel these days has about 5% BD in it to lube the fuel injection system. This is in place of the petroleum oil they used to use. I have been seeing a number of pumps recently that have the insides gunked up with stuck vanes in the supply pump. This may be what is going on with your rig.
I suspect that the BD in the diesel fuel we are seeing these days may gel up after prolonged storage. I have a very low miles AAZ in my Low Buck GTD that has no supply pump function after sitting a while. I may pull it apart later today.
Are you seeing fuel with absolutely no air bubbles in the clear(ish) line between the filter and the pump. If it has one. I usually pressurize the tank to about 3 psi and bleed the air out of the filter and then out of the supply like to the pump. Do not use more than about 5 psi in the fuel tank or you risk blowing the line off the tank and then you get to watch diesel come gushing out of the 11mm nipple on the tank. It will empty the tank before can stop it if it is not already up in the air. Ask me how I know. I have a gas cap or two with a dry break fitting that fits my leakdown tester. Set it at 3-5 psi and get to bleeding. If you loosen the OUT bolt it will push fuel into the pump as well.
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#7
by
trent77
on 13 May, 2013 13:35
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UPDATE.. The car starts and idles great, and sounds beautiful!! but as soon as I touch the accelerator it dies... Also while it's running I crack the injector lines one at a time, and just like when removing a spark plug on a gasser it "misses" then I tighten them up. This tells me all are firing and I am getting fuel to all cylinders. All help appreciated.. Thanks
Trent
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#8
by
damac
on 13 May, 2013 14:05
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Read above, you have to make sure you aren't dealing with restrictions it can stop you cold.
Make it easy on yourself and get some cheap clear hose and run a hose from inlet and return barb into a clear container of fuel to run the engine from.
And make sure that out bolt is clear. Spray brake cleaner through the big part and you should see fluid trickle out of the little hole. You can poke it with a needle to clear it, etc.
Then start the car and watch how fuel moves, if there is any air bubbles, etc.
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#9
by
trent77
on 13 May, 2013 14:09
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Sorry, I should have put that. I did run it directly from a fuel can with clear hose. things cleared up , no bubbles and easy starts, just will not run above idle.. sorry, should have put that, also replaced all return line, because I had torn one .
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#10
by
williamtaygan
on 13 May, 2013 20:50
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Are you sure the pump is fully primed? I once had a pump that would run at idle, but would die when I hit the accelerator. It turns out it wasn't priming correctly. Once I filled the IP up with fuel it ran great.
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#11
by
trent77
on 14 May, 2013 04:39
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I guess I am not sure. I thought I had it primed. will the air not work through at idle?
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#12
by
srgtlord
on 14 May, 2013 05:35
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If it still does not start after you prime the pump and opened each injector line, it may be that your pump is waaaay too advanced. I just redid the timing belt for the second time and the damn car would not start. I cranked and cranked and cranked and finally it sputtered to life with a cloud of grey smoke at idle. When mashing the throttle a nice cloud of black smoke was pouring from the tail-pipe. Plus its making some nice clackety clack noisy
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#13
by
williamtaygan
on 14 May, 2013 08:19
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Yeah, I only had one pump not prime properly out of 10 years and a dozen different vehicles. If you have a mighty vac or similar vacuum pump, you can suck on the outgoing banjo fitting, and make sure the pump is filled. Some people will hang a fuel tank above the pump so gravity is forcing fuel into it. On a non-turbo pump, you can pull the out going banjo fitting, and fill it with a funnel and a coffee filter. I can't remember if this works on turbopumps though??
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#14
by
Toby
on 14 May, 2013 16:34
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You guys are not thinking clearly. If it runs, its primed. Nothing else you do will change anything. It has stuck vanes in the supply pump. This is getting much more common. I suspect its due to the BD that is now in all diesel fuel as a IP lubricant. Try rigging an electric fuel pump and see if it revs up. If it does you will know. Just adding the lift pump won't cure the problem though. The high internal pressure that the supply pump produces inside the case drives the advance.