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How easy is an ALH m-TDi?
by
Henk
on 07 May, 2013 13:31
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Yo fellas:
A little background, it's a Skoda Octavia estate, cost me £700 ($1000 or so) but i think I'd rather have herpes than this car sometimes.
It has the infamous 'Limp Home Mode' fault where the turbo 'over-boosts'. I've had no luck with cleaning it, and frankly i'm sick of it.
So got thinking about how hard it would be to just make it mechanical
I already have a bored-out fuel pump bracket off a 1Z, a LR 300TDi 2.5L fuel pump ready to be sent off for gov mod and tuning (not confident enough myself yet!)
My main concern is what happens about the dash and such?
I've never really delved deep enough to understand all this crap, and i hate car electronics with a passion.
not sure what will happen with the turbo yet, probably make it ech powered, or just put a simple wastegate one on there
might seem like a lot of work to cure a 'simple problem' but it also helps fix the fact that it's godawfully slow too.
To the point where i have to tie overtakes so i have enough of a run-up, and get the gearing right so the ecu doesn't sh1t the bed and cut the boost
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#1
by
libbydiesel
on 07 May, 2013 20:35
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The AHU pump bracket will not work on the ALH engine. The good news is that the ALH bracket will work with the LR pump without modification. I do not know what will happen WRT the dash. If you left everything else hooked up except the pump and the N75 for the turbo, then I would think it would run fine, but certainly the check engine light would be on. I will be firing up an mTDI ALH in a vanagon in the next couple weeks, but that has none of the stock ALH harness.
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#2
by
CRSMP5
on 07 May, 2013 22:51
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id stop... first off the overboost kicking in limp = gotta fix... that be bad on a m set up..
now go get a boost gauge... a 2nd vac gauge... t the vac gauge in by the vnt... hook boos up to manifold and see why you hit limp...
myke_w limp on his custom set up.. he running a e set up.. would over boost so bad he think valves were forced open...
his issue.. the silly vac line from nt to air box... it prevented quick evacuation on the vac line to the vnt... caused a "delay" but as soon as he t'd in a vac gauge at the vnt.. he could see this..
i fought a car for a year before i thought of that test.. if i ever own one... vac and boost required imo.. just to moniter that system... but it tells so much.. myke_w's fixed in under hr once that test performed.. new stronger not soft vac line fixed..
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#3
by
snakemaster
on 08 May, 2013 06:12
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i have a golf tdi it did not start the best , but run fine , got sick of the E crap and put the mechanical pump on her blanked the egr ,just left the wiring , starts a1 now ,rpm counter works , but heater light flashes not got round to pulling the bulb yet , is your car runing a VNT , or a gt15 90hp turbo
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#4
by
Henk
on 08 May, 2013 16:07
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what age of golf was that then snakemaster, a mk3? I imagine the AHU's are easier.
As for the limping crap, i was hoping to rip most of the vacuum crap out, all i'll need is a line to the brake servo.
Would run a wastegate turbo probably, then maybe sort something VNT-shaped out after i've played around with the setup on my caddy's id-mounted 1Z
I think i'll get myself some gauges and have a bash at finding the problem. honestly it's probably just clogged up inside, but becuase there's just so much un-necessary sh1te in the engine bay it's practically impossible to do the mr muscle job without removing it completely. which got me on to thinking about a WG one
Sweet news about the 300TDi pump being a straight fit, plus the 2 part pump pulley should already be on there too
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#5
by
libbydiesel
on 08 May, 2013 16:55
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The 300TDI hub is different from the VW one as is the hole in the case for the pump pin but those are very minor details. Just use the hub from your ALH and one you have the hub off the hole for the pin is probably not going to be in the right place anyway.
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#6
by
Henk
on 11 May, 2013 12:39
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aye it's not far off though. I've got a 2 piece pulley already as this was intended to go on the caddy's engine
But i believe the ALH one looks the same as this?
In that case will use the skoda one for the caddy, although i'll need to get myself another mech injection pump for it
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#7
by
snakemaster
on 13 May, 2013 19:42
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on a 96 golf 1z
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#8
by
Henk
on 30 May, 2013 17:14
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Bump.
Basically looking to know if my dash and stuff will still function if I'd put a mech pump on?
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#9
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 May, 2013 20:24
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Bump.
Basically looking to know if my dash and stuff will still function if I'd put a mech pump on?
if your car is currently an electronically controlled TDI, then no, your gauge cluster wont function as it should..
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#10
by
libbydiesel
on 30 May, 2013 21:00
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But, to what extent? I don't know, but am interested in the answer. If everything was hooked up aside from the pump, n75 and accelerator potentiometer it would definitely set off a few DTCs and the check engine light would be on, but the rest of the cluster might still be functional.
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#11
by
vanbcguy
on 30 May, 2013 21:18
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That's a very good question actually. I mean if you can still run all your gauges then it wouldn't be the end of the world to just disable the check engine light. Heck I wonder if the ECU would be healthy enough to still log boost pressure? (not control it obviously). Tach would be out for sure. Or maybe not if you keep the crank position sensor? I guess the oil pressure / water temp / idiot lights would probably still be functional? I mean they work with the key on before you start the engine...
Following that logic you might even be able to use the IAT, MAF and MAP if you wanted to for data logging purposes.
Just kind of thinking out loud but I guess it's something that would be well worth testing.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
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#12
by
bbob203
on 31 May, 2013 06:47
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I don't see why some computer whiz couldn't hack an ecu.
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#13
by
Henk
on 31 May, 2013 11:51
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Well yeah i'd probably be leaving all the sensors and whatnot.
Even getting rid of all the vac hoses would be nice!
It would be interesting, although perhaps i won't use my daily and only transport as a guinea pig
Do love the idea of a simpler mechanically-run diesel, but it's not worth doing an engine swap, plus the 500 miles per tank is nice