Author Topic: switch tosynthetic (Read 5034 times)

hillfolk'r · « **on:** March 06, 2006, 04:52:23 pm »

when should i change my rebuilt tdi over to synth. oil??ive just done the 1000 mile oilchange,,,hell i have changed it 4 times already,but when should ido it??,,,and iwas figuring to change over to synth. run it 500-1000 and dump that too and refil with synth., the 500-1000 run would be like a "flush",,for safety,,ive got 4500$ in it and 30-50 $ for oil at this point isnt nothin,,,

fatmobile · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2006, 11:50:46 pm »

I've been waiting 3000 to 5000 miles after a rebuild, before I switch to synthetic oil.

wyldman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:05:32 am »

The only thing you need to wait for is the rings to seat.If it starts well,and the power and mileage is good,then they should be seated enough to make the switch.A compression test will confirm it.

Don't baby it during break in.Drive it hard,as you need the cylinder pressures as high as possible to help the rings seat.I've seen diesels that were babied that never seated the rings properly even after many many miles.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2006, 04:43:13 pm »

itook it easy,,not babying it,but not killing it either,,,,,if your rings dont seat within 5-10 mind of first startup,,they never will,,i started it up,,held it at 2000 for about 10mins,,blipping the throttle every 20-30 seconds or so to load the rings,shut er down,,dumped the oil+filter,filled w/fresh,prelubed it again for safety,,,,im at 1200-1300 miles,,musta changed the oil+filter 4 times so far,,,,theres like nothin coming out the breather,,no oil or excessive air,,,,cant even see smoke vapor coming out,,i can smell it but cant see it,total seal rings are the bomb!!!!that was what i was figuring like 3-5k or so,,switch over to synth,,,,,,iguess if its spinnin good its time for synth.,,,,

wyldman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:44:06 pm »

I've rebuilt,and reringed a ton of these motors,and I find they take about 5000 Km (3000 miles) to at least start to seat the rings well.If you beat the snot out of them,they seat quicker.I've seen guys baby them and still have idle and blowby problem at 10-15000 Km.

It sounds like yours is doing well,but I would wait till 3000 miles at least before you switch.I also wouldn't be so anal about changing the oil so much.Todays modern oils don't break down,and there is no need to change it that much,even during break in.

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2006, 08:47:15 pm »

yea im done with that,,iwas getin nutty,i stuck a couple of old speaker magnets over the oil filter and stuff,not a bad idea trap the magnetic crapin there,i was just insuring that iwas gettin all the bad stuffout,,i kept it spotless on the rebuild,but i figure,dumpit after initial fireup,to get all the prelubes+assy lube out,especially while its warm,,,then after 100 miles ,500 then 1000,so iguess it sounds worse,,ihavent really had to take it over 3000,cause it pulls so good,i dont really even need to pay attention to the revs,,but last dayor 2 i been rippin it,and it feels good up there past 3k rpm,,,probably feel better though if idothat intermediate spring mod,,it does feel like its defeuling past 3k anyways,but seems to spin ok,,,im goin with the delvac 5-40 when i do switch over

Josh · « **Reply #6 on:** March 14, 2006, 03:03:18 pm »

Hey Hillfolk'r,

Are you pre-lubing by running the oil pump underneath the vacuum pump? (counter-clockwise)? If so, do you ever have any trouble re-establishing a good seal when you reinstall the vacuum pump? I always seem to.

And what are total seal rings?

Thanks,
-Josh

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2006, 09:00:55 pm »

um,yea,,on the preluber "tool",i removed the seal in the bottom,whichi never noticed one before,,,soit just dumps the oil feed from the oil pump to the vacuumpump back in the crankcase,,i think i turn it c.c.,,i cant remember,i just spin the drill,and if i dont get any resistance,i change its direction,,it willhave enough resistance tomake a cheapy skil 3/8 corded drill get very hot in 30 seconds-1 minute,,nice to turn the cran k some too at the same time,,i just turn the oil pump drive when im done to an "easy" spot ,like paralell w. the crank,then drop it in,,it can be a little difficult sometimes,like it wont seat all the way,,i turn crankback+fortha little if i have to,itll dropin,,,total sealrings,basically eliminate the ring gap in a piston ring,by using 2 rings with opposing gaps in the same groove,,,seals compression in,reduces blowby,,usually leakdown tests will come up less than 5%,,iknow a guy runnin them in one of those garden tractor tractor puller things,,he has less than 2% leakdown after 3 seasons of racing,, it starts like instantly,,like i cant bump the key to just roll it over,it starts!,go totheir website if ya need to,,i think its totalseal.com,,they need to take an oem ring set,and custom make them for you,,it ran about 115$ for them to modify a stockset of rings