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8v body work...
by
CRSMP5
on 21 Mar, 2013 12:16
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From this thread on the Voooorrttexxxx.do not use primer till required/ready to paint whole thing..
primer asorbs water...
a enamel (not laqure) spray paint will work better/seal your work then primer will..
my 82 test coupe was spray bombed due to that... pre interwebz !!!!!!! 93-96 and bbob seen pics...
i pulled glass.. did the channels/windsheild 1st... then reinstalled glss.. then 1 panel a weekend after that.. but fell in love with the "baby killer" look it had... person dubbed it so as it reminded him of the original mad max bad guy chase scene.. my car being the fleeding try to run down kid car.. really beat but silly fast...
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#1
by
bajacalal
on 21 Mar, 2013 12:39
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Yes, primer is porous. That's why it's primer and why the paint layer soaks into it.
Although, I believe there are "sealing primers" available.
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#2
by
theman53
on 21 Mar, 2013 12:40
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epoxy primer will harden and seal off. The stuff I use is a 2:1 mix of base and catalyst, if you mix it 2:1:1 with reducer it becomes a sealer.
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#3
by
CRSMP5
on 21 Mar, 2013 15:00
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yea i understand they say sealing primer supposed too not... but when i did the 81 coupe me and paint shop went thru the whole i want a "non water asorbing" primer... they ay even the sealing kind suck it up...
i did do lucas method.. but it still asorbed
next he doing this "out side" in theory till he gets to paint booth status.. so the rattle can is still his best method... a rustolium spray enamel will let him get stuff close to final primer/seal... but gives him time to reach that point..
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#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Mar, 2013 21:59
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Right on, thanks Chris!
Exactly, this will be work done probably mostly outside.. Can't spray in the geerajj unless I hang plastic I guess lol. I guess, I could do primer after the filler and work is done and then paint it whatever colour until I strip the whole thing?? ugh stripping the whole car will take forever won't it?! haha
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#5
by
bajacalal
on 21 Mar, 2013 22:43
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Before you paint outside, spray everything down in your yard with a hose. Less dust and debris and stuff will get in the paint.
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Mar, 2013 22:43
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I am going to do a paint booth style 2x4 and plastic deallio good sir, but that is a good idea.
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#7
by
CRSMP5
on 21 Mar, 2013 23:17
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thats how you do the booth too.. aka wet walls and floor... best time is right after rain.. rain = no bugs... no blowing dust...
the idea is when you get to final priming.. you can use a high build primer to do your finishing... then poaint... i dust the primer w spray paint so i can sand the dusting off and any low spots will have a dark spot...
all body work you do can be covered in enamel.. protects it so on... and since enamel is non issue for what he puts on top of it..
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Mar, 2013 23:23
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For prep, if the original coat of paint is on there well I only need to give the clear a good scuffing right??
(YES, I am a noob at some things guys haha.)
I didn't do any prep when I rollered it 3.5 years ago.. Tremclad is the siht. It's still on there and a wax brings it up to shinier then when it went on.
Yes good call on the guide coat, I will be learning a lot on this one.
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#9
by
RabbitJockey
on 21 Mar, 2013 23:55
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If us your we're to wetland and buff/ polish that shot bid be surprised how amazing it would look
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Mar, 2013 23:56
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Too much drinky?? Buff and polish what? My Tremclad? I do, it shiiiiiines.
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#11
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2013 07:48
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Wet sand and buff it is what I meant
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#12
by
bajacalal
on 22 Mar, 2013 11:38
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For prep, if the original coat of paint is on there well I only need to give the clear a good scuffing right??
(YES, I am a noob at some things guys haha.)
I didn't do any prep when I rollered it 3.5 years ago.. Tremclad is the siht. It's still on there and a wax brings it up to shinier then when it went on.
Yes good call on the guide coat, I will be learning a lot on this one.
From what I've been told, by people who do this professionally, is that stripping the paint to bare metal is
always best, even if it's time consuming and expensive, because paints have different formulas now, and the new paint can react with the old paint underneath and cause some problems like peeling and bubbling that may not be immediately noticeable for a few years until it starts peeling.
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#13
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Mar, 2013 11:41
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Figured so. How do people strip the hard to get to places? Like door jambs and such??
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#14
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Mar, 2013 11:48
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maybe use some chemicals like zip strip or a scotch brite pad ud clean a crusty glass pan with