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Author Topic: Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?  (Read 3658 times)

August 04, 2004, 01:57:45 am

kens84quantumtd

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« on: August 04, 2004, 01:57:45 am »
Hey... I am in the middle of a teardown.. I took off the nut that holds the inj pump pulley, and the pulley won't come off. My factory repaitr manual says to use a puller to get it off. Is there another way.. I tried gently prying back and forth a little.. Also tried lightly tapping on the nut... no go. I am stuck until I can get this off...

Thanks for your help.

Ken



Reply #1August 04, 2004, 03:06:19 am

BlackTieTD

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2004, 03:06:19 am »
even with a universal puller.. we had a hell of a time with that pulley on my TD engine... i think you'll need at least a universal puller, if not the proper one for the job. good luck with it  :?

Reply #2August 04, 2004, 03:08:33 am

fspGTD

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2004, 03:08:33 am »
I have a couple suggestions for this.  First, loosen the nut and back it off a few turns, but don't completley remove it.  This will keep the pulley from popping off all the way and from loosing the woodruff key.

Now, the task of getting the sprocket loose you have a couple options that don't require pullers.  One, I'd say is preferred, but I don't know if you have this required tool for it or not... basically what you need for first option is a long and tapering steel drift/punch type thing (I have one that's about 10"-1 foot long) it need to taper so that you can fit it alongside the injection pump, and stick the end into the hole that is in the injection pump mounting bracket that is closest to the pulley.  The hole in this bracket to put the punch/drift through is right next to and a little bit below I think, the fuel inlet banjo.  There is a hole there, if you look carefully you will see it.  The punch need to be slender enough to make it through that hole, and then it will contact the pulley fairly close to the axis of rotation.  And it needs to be long enough so that you can whack the other end of it with a hammer, clear of the other end of the injection pump.  Give it a good whack or 2 (I like to use a heavy hammer like a little sledge, moving slower rather than a lightweight hammer that needs to be moved fast, as the lighter hammer seems more apt to get out of control) With good contact with a hammer through the drift/punch, the pulley will pop right off.

Option number 2 is if you don't have ANY tools - no puller, no hammer, no drift.  All you need is a couple medium-long'ish M8 bolts.  What you can do is remove the top 2 injection pump mounting bolts; the ones that you loosen to rotate the pump and adjust it's timing.  back them all the way out and remove them.  Then get some longer M8 bolts and thread them into the holes.  They will stick through the female threads on the other side of the bracket, and will start to screw into the pulley.  As they start to screw into the pulley it will push the pulley sideways some because of the torquing action as the bolts are not near the axis of rotation.  So as the bolts make contact with pulley, bring both bolts up to torque evenly so that they press the pulley equally on both of the contact points without torquing the pulley sideways very much.  Eventually the pulley won't be able to take that stress and you will find *dink* the pulley breaks loose.  The thing I don't like about this method is that the bolts screwed into the pulley this way will chew up the pulley where they make contact a little bit.  If you care about keeping everything in perfect shape including the finish of your pulley, this is not really desirable, however it should not really effect the function of the pulley and the marks will be on the inside where you probably won't be able to see them when the pulley is installed on the engine.

Hope that helps... there may be other ways to do it too, those are just the 2 ways I've been able to get those pulleys off without a puller!

Good luck,
Jake Russell
'81 VW Rabbit GTD Autocrosser 1.6lTD, SCCA FSP Class
Dieselicious Turbocharger Upgrade/Rebuild Kits

Reply #3August 04, 2004, 11:09:13 am

DieselsRcool

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2004, 11:09:13 am »
If you have a welder and a grinder you can make your own.


Reply #4August 10, 2004, 11:40:18 pm

kens84quantumtd

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2004, 11:40:18 pm »
Thanks guys.. I will try your suggestions..I tried  3 different pullers last night.. but they were all to big, too small, or the jaw hooks were too big to get around the back or inside anything on the pulley.
If I can't get it to come off tomorow.. I would like to buy one of the pullers from DieselsRcool if that is possible. I need to get this think apart and off my property so I don't get yet ANOTHER ticket from the City of CensorNazi.

Thanks

Ken

Reply #5October 10, 2004, 10:19:49 am

Josh

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I've successfully used a loaner from autozone on two quantum
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2004, 10:19:49 am »
Ken,

  I've had success on two quantums using the 2 pronged loaner from Autozone.  

  It took a few tries, but eventually the pulleys came off.  

  But I'll be damned if next time I don't buy the right tool.  

  The rabbit/jetta folks have better access to the back of their pumps; us quantum folks haven't got the luxury.  

   -Josh
'84 Quantum sedan (oops, not '83!)
'83 Quantum wagon(ditto, not '82)
'82 Westfalia
'79 Rabbit
Mmmm.  Diesely.

Reply #6October 11, 2004, 01:49:27 pm

fatmobile

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injection pump gear puller
« Reply #6 on: October 11, 2004, 01:49:27 pm »
I used to have a problem pulling that gear.
 Now I use a harmonic balancer puller instead of one with jaws.
 Get a couple nuts and bolts, use the small holes in the injection pump gear, put the nut behind the gear (it is kinda tough to put it through the big hole and slide it back behind the little hole) then thread the bolt into it (put the bolt through the puller first),
 Do the same to the other small hole, then snug the big center bolt up  to the center of the shaft.
 The nuts won't slip through the holes (if you get big enough nuts).
 Now tighten it down and tap on stuff.
Tornado red, '91 Golf 4 door,
with a re-ringed, '84 quantum, turbo diesel, MD block

Reply #7October 12, 2004, 07:35:13 pm

Giles@PerformanceDiesel

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Gear Puller not needed in 20 years
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2004, 07:35:13 pm »
hey guys

i re & re'd many a pump on all the vw/audi/volvo applications and never
needed a puller yet.

put a long screw driver behind gear and pry forward.
now take 2 1/2 mini sledge hammer and hit the top side of the gear
and bingo the gear will pop off.

leave the nut on the shaft and back it off 1 turn from bottom.

hope this helps everyone

Giles
 :D

Reply #8October 14, 2004, 07:12:54 pm

janb

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2004, 07:12:54 pm »
Quote
put a long screw driver behind gear and pry forward.
now take 2 1/2 mini sledge hammer and hit the top side of the gear
and bingo the gear will pop off.


That's what I do too, except I use a 'dead blow' rubber (or lead) mallet

do keep that nut on or you will be shopping for a woodruff key :wink:
The Stealth Rabbit
VW-d's are forever

Reply #9October 15, 2004, 05:32:18 am

Rat407

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Do I really need a puller to get the inj pump gear off?
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2004, 05:32:18 am »
I'm lucky. Mine came off with a simple wack with a plastic dead blow hammer.  Hey some things DO happen for me in the simple life.
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