Vanbcguy's M-TDI Build

[vanbcguy]

Specs please

I was asked not to post them online, but I'll send you a PM.

How does this cam improve performance?

More lift than the stock TDI cam plus quite a bit more duration.  Valves open sooner, close later and open further.  This improves the overall volumetric efficiency of the engine, meaning more air gets packed in, meaning you can run more fuel without melting things.

[vanbcguy]

Finally got a call today from Boraparts - still no clutch though.  I was able to cancel the order; DC Clutch was saying they still didn't have any friction material in stock and that they'd have it in "a couple of days".  Well considering my clutch was going to be ready in "a couple of days" a month ago, I'm definitely not falling for that line!!

Sooooooooo... back to the drawing board on that one! 

The other GT1756VK builds I see out there are all in the 350ish ft-lb range power wise so stock clutches are not an option.  I'm sort of thinking of the South Bend Stage III Endurance though I've seen a few complaints about rough engagement at slow speeds.  Always hard to know what is "I have worn out crappy motor mounts" and what is actually the clutch though.  Clutches are such a b**ch to choose, so many trade-offs.  I want something that'll hold all the power I can throw at it yet still behave itself nicely in traffic and be reasonable when I'm backing a trailer uphill.  Seems like a lot to ask!

[745 turbogreasel]

I've used a few SB truck clutches without any regrets whatsoever, for what that is worth.
well, once I got  a flywheel with the wrong drilling, but hey sent a new one right away.

[theman53]

I am fully pleased with the SB in the MKIV it is the stage 2 endurance good for 350ft/lbs or something.

I am also fully pleased with the clutchnet 6 puck with 6 springs in my 020. It is a little rougher than the SB but it also holds more. Good engine mounts with both and it isn't too bad, but just enough to know it isn't stock.

[410]

I'm running the sachs clutch with single mass flywheel built for a vr6 on my mk4.  It is the smoothest engaging clutch I've ever had.  I'm also running bosio pp764 nozzles, Malones stage 4 tune, vnt 17, full 2.5" custom exhaust, ported head, a large smic and pd150 intake.  The clutch holds the power with no issues.  I know that you'll be pushing more power and torque than my set up but there is nothing worse than a grabby clutch on your daily driver.  This clutch actually has a lighter pedal feel than the stock clutch I pulled out. 

Awesome engine build by the way.  Is your head stock?  Other than the colt cam going in I didn't see anything about the head.  Sorry if I missed it.

[vanbcguy]

Yeah the head is bone stock at the moment. I would have loved to have it worked on but this build has cost me a fortune already. I have had my head reconditioned - new seals and guides, valves resurfaced, etc but that's it for the moment.

Once this is all paid off and I get bored of it I can definitely see myself getting the head ported by someone who knows what they are doing. I've kind of been keeping my eyes open for suitable core heads.

As to the clutch - the SB stuff is leading in my mind at the moment. I'm about to go to the states for a couple of weeks so getting something shipped to the hotel is definitely a possibility. Just trying to decide if I want the Stage 2 Endurance or the Stage 3 Endurance. I'll have brand new motor mounts when I swap everything but I'm not terribly in to the idea of an unfriendly clutch in traffic. That said I work from home so my driving is mostly for pleasure / family stuff, and we have the 1.8T wagon too. So it's not like I HAVE to use Jezebel all the time.

[theman53]

I would go for the stage 3 then. My stage 2 acts as stock with the heavy flywheel. that would be the other part, if you go with a lighter flywheel it will probably be much harsher than with the heavy 21lb one I have.

[410]

My vote is for the SB stage 2.  Good choice on the cam as well.  I've done a couple colt cams and both owners noticed a difference.  I have a stage 2 sitting on the shelf for myself whenever I get time.  If you do decide to get the head ported, make sure you get a 3 angle valve job at the same time.  Keep up the great work.  The first time you step on it after break in will make it all worth it.

[vanbcguy]

Yeah the 21lb is definitely happening.

I did email the folks at SB a while back and they recommend the Stage 3 endurance for me. I do tow with Jezzie a fair bit too - he felt that the stronger clutch would be a better bet given my use case.

[vanbcguy]

Got some solid good work done on my VNT controller last night.  Finally sorted out how to add new maps / modify existing ones in terms of changing the axes - I have set the LDA map up now so it uses EGT as the Y axis and RPM as the X axis.  This lets me set RPM-dependent max EGT ranges.  The idea is the LDA will still operate exactly as normal (increasing fuel as boost comes on) but I will be able to taper off the boost getting to the LDA as EGTs go past a certain (adjustable) point. 

I left it as a 2D map as I figured I might want to have different max EGT ranges depending on RPM - for instance allowing a bit higher EGTs at low RPM to get things going (knowing that I'm not going to be staying there long) but getting more aggressive about the EGT limits as I get closer to 5500 RPM.  Naturally it is going to take some effort to tune this though.

I will say it is pretty neat being able to hold a lighter to my EGT probe and having the controller start changing the duty cycle on one of the solenoids in response.  Since I haven't been working with a real engine yet I haven't had an RPM trigger available so I haven't been able to simulate changing conditions with the VNT solenoid.  But since this map applies even with no pressure / RPM applied (just an EGT input) I can actually hear the LDA solenoid reacting as the probe heats up.  Very cool.  And nice to know that this actually WORKS.

[vanbcguy]

Ordered my clutch today...

I decided to go with the SBC Stage 2 Endurance.  I dug through a ton of dyno sheets for various TDIs in the power range I'm looking at and there were precious few that exceeded the Stage 2 Endurance torque rating.  Those that did were within 15-20 ft-lbs and I've heard the SB ratings are quite conservative. 

Overall I found too many people complaining about poor low speed driveability with their Stage 3 clutches, that they are too "grabby".  Trying to back up my trailer with a grabby clutch sounds horrible.  So does sitting in a 45 minute border lineup - I really like the fact I can just clutch in without hitting the accelerator to roll forward in that kind of situation right now.

So at this point the only single part I'm missing is my injectors.  I have a set of HFLOX Warp 7 nozzles here ready to be installed, just need to get over to the diesel shop to drop 'em off.  All that's left on my actual engine build is installing the belts, valve cover and oil pan... Wow, not far off now!  Unfortunately I'm getting on a plane on Sunday to head down to Atlanta for a couple of weeks so there won't be any progress till the end of the month.  Wife's b-day today too.  Outta time!

[410]

You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch.  Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks.  Been there.

[vanbcguy]

You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch.  Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks.  Been there.

Yeah after I ordered it I saw someone mentioning somewhere that South Bend basically say that the Stage 2 Endurance will hold more torque than a pair of street tires will anyhow.  So basically unless you are planning to run drag tires, the Stage 2 is perfect.  Anyhow glad it's sorted, and glad to save $200 on it over the Stage 3. 

The one thing that hurts about all of this is I actually planned a trip to the states back in December purely so I could get my clutch and avoid the shipping / duty involved in sending everything here to Canada.  I did get a whole bunch of other stuff for my build so it wasn't a total loss, but I'm having to spend an extra $150 in shipping and duty now that I wouldn't have had if the DC clutch had shipped anywhere even remotely close to when it was supposed to.  I mean considering the total bill for everything here it's not that big a deal but $150 is $150.  I could have redone my front brakes for that.

ANYHOW, enough griping!!

Here's where I'm at now:



Cam and lifters installed (with tons of cam lube!), timing belt installed - still need to do the IP timing.  I used the "small screwdriver down an injector hole to find TDC" method since the flywheel obviously isn't on yet - will finalize everything later on.  Serp belt installed, very pleased with how the WP pulley and belt fit as I pulled the part numbers from various posts out there on the interwebz. 

[bbob203]

You are scaring me with those open injector holes.  Did you get a windage tray for the oil pan?

[410]

Make sure you recheck the timing belt timing once installed.  I had to do the same thing using a small probe down the injector hole for finding TDC but once everything was together I was out about a tooth on the flywheel.