ECOdiesel swap into 1981 Mk1 Diesel Rabbit L Need advice

[libbydiesel]

The compressor is smaller on the ECO.  The housings and turbine are the same. 

[keithnsage]

Massive Thanks to the community for all the advice and input.

re doesn't like hills; My son tried to take it up a hill with a pretty steep grade. It went gutless and blew black out the tail. After downshifting and no improvement and still black out the back, he decided to turn it around and abandon the hill attempt.

When I look closely at the waste-gate screw, I can see clean threads as if someone had backed it out quite a few turns.

When my son took it on the highway, he said he could get it to 70mph, and that when the turbo cut out it was gutless.

When we were first driving it out of the shop yard, the speedometer was making horrible noise. We shut it down and went to check the speedometer drive gear and cable in the transmission. It wouldn't come out.

We pulled the cable housing enough to peek in with a flashlight and saw the gear all ****-eyed  [edit; half side-ways]. Had him put it in gear and we rocked it a bit while I pulled on the cable and it popped out. Gear was mangled, but was still on there.

Brainstorm - can't put it back in, gotta cover the port, hmm... Grab the lineman's pliers and pull the gear end out as far as we can out of the cable sleeve and 'snip.' Slip the housing into the port and tighten the screw.

[EcoTX]

That doesn't look like the K14 that's on my ECOdiesel...
I think that's a K24 on there.
The inlet looks a lot bigger for one thing.  Wastegate looks a bit larger too.

Also notice the tag with all the numbers is under the inlet on the compressor, this guys tag is on the opposite side on the top (like the K24).

K24 with turbo pump in a Rabbit should have no trouble going up some hills I'd imagine.

[wolf_walker]

The speedo gears are color coded per trans gearing, and cheap.  So are the cables, don't buy an off-brand one, and lube it.

[8v-of-fury]

K24 with turbo pump in a Rabbit should have no trouble going up some hills I'd imagine.

It is an 8mm pump, and the k24 won't be making good power unless you got it good and spooled. My 1.6 with the K24 doesn't like to pull up (accelerate) hills at anything below 2600.

His turbo has the tag on the bottom like other K14;s

[keithnsage]

Someone must have swapped Injection Pumps. There's a spaceship looking gizmo (LDA?) on top of this one and it's connected to a vacuum port.
The pump numbers are:
NR 0 460 494 182
R 223 BT 4007
068 130 081 F
015 64? 82347

Bosch lookup = VE4/9F2250 R 223

The tag on the turbo under the intake is missing. There is one on the opposite side on the top. It's green and the info was written with an electric engraver. It says K14. But who knows what's really in there. The cold air intake is aprox 2 inches / 50.5mm or so diameter.

[keithnsage]

The speedo gears are color coded per trans gearing, and cheap.  So are the cables, don't buy an off-brand one, and lube it.

The only one we could find within 100 miles was a Cofle brand. Still hunting for a lock ring and white gear.
Would re-using the old lock ring be ok?
What kind of lube for the cable?

[EcoTX]

K24 with turbo pump in a Rabbit should have no trouble going up some hills I'd imagine.

It is an 8mm pump, and the k24 won't be making good power unless you got it good and spooled. My 1.6 with the K24 doesn't like to pull up (accelerate) hills at anything below 2600.

His turbo has the tag on the bottom like other K14;s

I think there is some misunderstanding here...
There's no doubt from his pictures he has a turbo pump, which the ECO didn't have I know you know that.
Also you confused the picture I posted of my turbo on my car with what he actually has I think.
This is the tag I am talking about on his car.  Scroll down for what a factory ECO K14 actually looks like.

The tag on the turbo under the intake is missing. There is one on the opposite side on the top. It's green and the info was written with an electric engraver. It says K14.

Can you please get a better picture of that tag and post it?

It's very peculiar for a few reasons:

1.) Up until now possibly, every green tag I've seen has been on a Garrett turbo.  KKK turbos have had a blue tag.
2.) All the smaller turbos (Garrett T2, KKK K14) I've seen for this era of VW diesels have the spot for the plate cast into the compressor housing.
     All the larger turbos (Garrett T3, KKK K24) have the plate on the back side on the top.

Here are some pics of all the turbos I have for comparison.







Judging from your pictures you have the correct ECOdiesel intake manifold without the BOV cast into it.
The valve cover looks exactly the same as mine also since you were wondering.
I'd T a cheap boost gauge from the parts store into the line from the LDA and see how the boost is behaving while driving.

[keithnsage]

Your tag pics have VW/AUDI part numbers. I wonder if ours is an orphan.
Tag Fields; CODE: (blank), MODEL: K14, GARRETT P/N: ?314-988-6033, CUST P/N: (blank), S/N: RCT?29051
TurboGreenTag


In the pic below you can see where the tag is missing below the intake.
Questions;
1) Is there supposed to be a lock nut on what appears to be a threaded fitting on / in the wastegate?
There are a few turns of clean threads at the bottom, as if it were backed out a bit.
2) Is there supposed to be a hose that connects here?
The inside of the threaded fitting appears to be a Very small Hex.
That is the wastegate below the intake? Or am I totally lost?
TurboExhstModedOilLnWstgt

[TylerDurden]

The wastegate dashpot should have a locknut.

If the IP aneroid has a vacuum line connected, it is serving as an ADA, not an LDA. The aneroid can be changed to LDA, if you can get the proper fittings.


As stated awhile back, it might be helpful to post the block numbers, found on the flat near the vacuum pump, just below the water outlet. That may show if it is a turbo block or an NA block. The turbo blocks have oil squirters to cool the pistons.

[8v-of-fury]

Someone must have swapped Injection Pumps. There's a spaceship looking gizmo (LDA?) on top of this one and it's connected to a vacuum port.
The pump numbers are:
NR 0 460 494 182

The 6th digit in bold, in this case the "9" is the plunger size of the pump, it is not an ECO pump as it has a 9mm plunger.

8=8mm
9=9mm
0=10mm
1=11mm
2=12mm

Edited for correction

[TylerDurden]

Someone must have swapped Injection Pumps. There's a spaceship looking gizmo (LDA?) on top of this one and it's connected to a vacuum port.
The pump numbers are:
NR 0 460 494 182

it is an ECO pump with a 8mm plunger.

Not an ECO IP.

Stock Eco IP has no aneroid.

[8v-of-fury]

Above post edited, apparently today is not my day. Back to bed!

[wolf_walker]

The speedo gears are color coded per trans gearing, and cheap.  So are the cables, don't buy an off-brand one, and lube it.

The only one we could find within 100 miles was a Cofle brand. Still hunting for a lock ring and white gear.
Would re-using the old lock ring be ok?
What kind of lube for the cable?

Cofle used to be OK, I got one that was listed as that or Gemo awhile ago that I think was a fake, or there production has gone to crap, it had
powdery *** metal that was a cheap looking silver color instead of anodized gold like they used to be, and it's noisy.
Technically you are supposed to use powdered graphite, but any decent oil should be fine, hang it up and let it drip through.
The lock ring, where the gear snaps on?  Those are a pain, and either not included with the new cable sometimes or the one included does not fit.
Re-use, carefully, it's hard to tell when the gear pops into place on the cable sometimes, look real hard and measure how far it should sit over
the cable.  The gear should be available from the dealer.  Noisy speedo cables suck.

[keithnsage]

The wastegate dashpot should have a locknut.

If the IP aneroid has a vacuum line connected, it is serving as an ADA, not an LDA. The aneroid can be changed to LDA, if you can get the proper fittings.

As stated awhile back, it might be helpful to post the block numbers, found on the flat near the vacuum pump, just below the water outlet. That may show if it is a turbo block or an NA block. The turbo blocks have oil squirters to cool the pistons.

Engine Block ID is 1V, the rest is unreadable.
The numbers from the head are: 068 103 373 T

The wastegate dashpot locknut is missing.
Is there supposed to be a hose connected to the wastegate dashpot?

When I Google ADA, I found info about Mercedes and that it reduces the amount of fuel when "you drive up in the mountains, the fuel will be reduced because there is less air to burn with it. If the fuel is not reduced, increased smoking/poor fuel mileage would result, and probably increased engine wear."

I also found reference that an "ADA feed from the bottom of the diaphragm to some kind of a container."

So an ADA is an altitude compensator to reduce fueling at certain altitudes under load?

And this thing is hooked up wrong?

I find mention that Turbo diesel IP get plugged into vacuum at intake manifold, and another said the LDA nipple gets connected to the compressor side of the turbo.

There's a pic of a TD IP with LDA and a another pump that looks slightly similar to the one we have here: http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7465

ADA, LDA, connected here, there; Now I'm so confused.
The pump is allegedly a TD pump.
But it doesn't have boost enrichment?
If it was an LDA, where would it be connected to?

To clarify my poor description; Here is a pic of the line from the IP to the intake:
Not saying this hook up is correct, but it was how we got it.


I'll get more pics of the pump from different angles it will help or if needed.