Cold Start Problems

[LOBOTAC]

Looking to some of you experts to help me out.  I have a 90 Jetta with a 310,000 mile 1.6 na.  She has been my daily for nearly 2 years and in that time has started every time and never left me stranded.  Yeah, I have had to fix her with a flashlight in the middle of a 70 mile (each way) commute but it is a 20 YO VW so who cares.  The joy that she gives each and every mile I am behind her wheel is more then enough to make me forget about a couple of hiccups.  In fact, last summer she took myself and my new wife on a 1200 mile road trip, clickety clack across the mountains and exporing canyons, valleys and most of south eastern Washington and eastern and southern Oregon.  It was on this wonderful trip that she earned her name "Joy Jetta".
So now, Joy has decided that its cold and she doesnt want to start.  I noticed the problem a few days ago as we began experiencing temperatures that are a little colder then what we have had recently.  I thought at first it must just be that damn alternator belt again.  Gave her a boost, burned the glo plugs a couple of cycles and clickety clack, was on my way.  That afternoon temps were up a little and she struggled but fired up for the drive home.  The next morning not quite as cold as the previous she cranked and cranked but caught just before killing the battery.  That afternoon had to get a buddy to give me a jump cause she just wasnt in the mood to go home.  Now this morning, she just wont start.  Crank and crank but just wont catch.  I have not had a chance to check the glo plugs.  Am overdue for a fuel filter (run wax in the summer) and have a leaking radiator that needs about 1 qt every morning.  Just wondering if you guys can point out some things that I should be looking at.  I get a little frustrated when she doesnt cooperate and need some help putting it in order of importance of what I need to be looking at and checking.  After spending so many days and miles behind her wheel I just dont feel right driving my other vehicles.  They just dont fit, and definately dont bring the joy that Joy does.

[TylerDurden]

Cover the basics:

~ 48A draw indicates good GPs
Clear lines into and out of the IP to verify no air in the fuel system
Clean fuel filter

If those are good, then:
Clean injection system with Diesel Purge, also checks IP lift section & flow
Verify open lines from/to tank
>250psi compression
Cam & IP timing



Music to work by (?):
"Joy" by Harry Nilsson (sung by Joe Ely): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sU6ckZE9JQE 

[LOBOTAC]

Thank you,  I will be checking the GPs and changing the fuel filter tomorrow.  I do have a clear line on the return and i do get a couple of air bubbles coming through, a few air bubbles have always been present and doesnt seem to be any more then what I have always had.   How do I verify open lines from/to tank  seems as though I am getting fuel based on the unburnt fuel i smell from the exhaust when trying to get her to fire off.  Timing belt was replaced about 20,000 ago and was timed then.  What is the process to verify compression.

[TylerDurden]

The Supply line from the tank should require little vacuum to draw fuel to the IP... IIRC, less than 10" (i'd check that number).  The return line should blow bubbles into the tank with ~5-10psi.

A compression test requires a test-gauge that is attached instead of an injector. The engine is cranked (with the fuel cutoff unplugged) until the gauge stops increasing.

Since you add wax in the summer, you might try a some Power Service 911 to dissolve any wax possibly plugging the tank screen.

[ORCoaster]

I bet you are just in the need of new glow plugs.  But a compression check wouldn't hurt either.  Fuel filter plugging may be giving you a vacuum on the line and when you shut down you are getting air into the IP through a weak O ring. 

I would start on the plugs and fuel system and save the compression check for last.  Do the simple and straight forward stuff then mess with the others. 

Keep us updated. 

[LOBOTAC]

I am hoping that its just the GP's and fuel filter. I have never replaced the GP's in the 2 yrs and 130,000+ Ive put on her.   I will keep you guys posted.  While I am a newbie posting on here I have spent hours reading and gaining knowledge and solving other issues from all the other diesel freaks on here.  Awesome reading and have filled my brain with all kinds of wonderful knowledge, tips and tricks.  Plan on pimping my plugs once the weather is bearable to do so (no garage or cover). And I am planning to rebuild another 1.6 I have available, probably 1-1 1/2 yrs away for that though.  Hope to keep Joy humming along and covering the miles until then.  I will keep you guys posted.

[air-cooled or diesel]

cranking and cranking can kill ur starter. after cranking for 30 secs it needs a cool down.

[LOBOTAC]

Got the injector lines removed today and began removing the bus bar.  The 1st two 8mm came off easily, got the third about half way after about 20 min.  Hands were numb and was getting to dark to see so stopped for the day.  Tricks or advice on getting the other two off?  I have read the other threads so I pretty much knew that they were going to be a pain but now i REALLY know just how much of a pain. 
When I moved my vac line coming off of the barb just above the check valve to get to the 1st 8mm I discovered that there was a big hole in it, guess that explains my vac issues with the brakes I have been having.  Would that have anything to do with harder starts?   

[TylerDurden]

The little 8mm flex-head gearwrench is the shot, mate.

Sears has em for 16 bux. I never thought I spend that $$ on a dinky little wrench, but it makes the gig much much easier.


Vac won't have an effect on starting.

[ORCoaster]

I have the Sears gear wrench set and it is my tool of choice for this job.  Otherwise it becomes one for a standard box wrench that you put on, turn a bit, take off, reposition and repeat.  Forever, or so it seems.  My GPs have been reworked with individual wires and the nuts were fairly clean the last time I took them off I just had to loosen with the wrench and was able to remove with fingers.  At the end of the line I slid a screwdriver with the super magnet attached and gave the last two turns and click the screwdriver they went. 

What we need to devise for this application is an 90 degree boot that slips on tight like a sparkplug does.  Is the stud that comes out the back of a cigarette lighter the same diameter as the GP's or is it smaller?  That would be the end to attach to a wire if you were pimping the plugs.  Maybe they come in larger diameters?  Anyone know?  Then it wouldn't be a pain in the well just about everywhere by the time you are done with those two behind the IP.

[LOBOTAC]

I will be picking up a set tomorrow.  I have owned 3 sae sets of gearwrenches for years and then....I found my VW or maybe she found me.  Ill likely be getting both the fixed and the flex end sets.  Great wrenches for all kinds of situations.

[air-cooled or diesel]

try some power blaster on threads this too can help, let set in for about 1/2hr.

[LOBOTAC]

Soaked them down good before starting.  Dont know that I have seen this posted around here but ran across this a few years back and the acetone/atf mix works wonders.  Didnt believe it till I tried for myself.

here is the link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1433151

[LOBOTAC]

Yep, GP R/R is much easier with the proper tools, gearwrench is a must!  Still not something I want to do very often.  New GP's in today along with a new fuel filter.  Clickety clack clickety clack.    Went ahead and ran seperate wires to the gp's and will finish pimping the rest of the system when time allows.  Found it must easier to get the two behind the ip in their holes with wires loosely attached to the gp's, plus i didnt have to drop and search for those little 8mm's.  Thanks for the help and advice.

[bajacalal]

Another vote for Gear Wrench!

I have seen them at other places than Sears now too.

I've had the same set since the 1990s (maybe replaced one or two pieces) when they first came on the market and I've always thought that they were the best tool ever made since I bought them.