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1.6TD TDC with gasser 210mm flywheel???
by
BLVW
on 01 Jan, 2013 16:13
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Hey all, my first post...Ive had an 82 1.6na 2dr rabbit with a giles pump for bout 5 years now. I just picked up a clean running 81 caddy with a swapped in mechanical head 1.6TD. First thing i did when i got the pickup was swap in a 5 speed with a larger SACHS 210mm clutch and flywheel.
Now after driving the pickup for a bit more i decided i liked the giles pump so much on my NA im putting one on my TD along with new glow plugs, arp studs, head gasket (ive done this job a couple times on my NA) and also have giles rebuild my injectors. )
So today i started the tear down of the TD...pulled the valve cover to set TDC with the cam locking/alignment tool...got the cam slot lined up installed the tool...and...NO TDC MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL. I pulled the cam aligning tool and rotated the engine just a little bit more and FOUND a mark on the flywheel. This mark is different than ive seen on my 1.6NA. I want to be sure that this is indeed TDC and the cam timing may have been off since i purchased the pickup. (the guy i bought it from said he replaced the timing belt...so maybe is off because he had it wrong??) Here are photos of the flywheel mark aligned and where the cam sits. I just want to be sure when i tear this head off and reassemble im going to get accurate timing? Is this flywheel mark correct even though it isnt the original diesel flywheel?
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#1
by
BLVW
on 01 Jan, 2013 17:14
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Here is a photo with the cam tool installed with the associated flywheel location. After looking into this a bit more I found TWO flywheel machine marks like the one in the first post. The cam is lined up with the tool installed inbetween the two machine marks. The machine marks are a couple inches apart on the flywheel. There is no "divit" between the two marks like on my original flywheel.
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#2
by
CRSMP5
on 01 Jan, 2013 22:47
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tdc is right there beside that bolt head.... its just not marked.. so dimple with punch.. but thats tdc..
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#3
by
8v-of-fury
on 01 Jan, 2013 23:17
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This is TDC right here. Just as it is slightly to the left of that same spot on the diesel flywheel.
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#4
by
fatmobile
on 02 Jan, 2013 01:34
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Diesel flywheel has 6 bolts, this 210mm flywheel has 9.
That bolt doesn't exist on the 200mm diesel flywheel.
Hagar suggested removing injector 1 and sliding an oil dipstick down to the piston to find TDC.
Others suggest removing the cam and hanging one valve open on cylinder 1.
Rotate the crank one way till it hits, make a mark.
Rotate it the other way till it stops,
mark it and TDC will be centered between the marks.
It looks like someone did some machining on the flywheel, might have removed the mark.
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#5
by
BLVW
on 02 Jan, 2013 09:29
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Ok thanks for the help. So I'm going with the above position as TDC. To be exact I measured with a caliper from the left reference mark on the old flywheel to the TDC mark on it, then fit the caliper in the tranny sight hole with the new flywheels and marked that same distance from the left reference and made a dimple. Thanks again for the clarification.
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#6
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 02 Jan, 2013 11:27
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This is TDC right here. Just as it is slightly to the left of that same spot on the diesel flywheel.
that pointer is pointing at 100% true TDC.. its ALWAYS right at the edge of that bolt hole..
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#7
by
nwcali6
on 03 Jan, 2013 10:27
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My first post on here...
I installed a 1.6 into a 59 Jeep and marked the flywheel (Jeep flywheel) when I had it apart. Once I put it all together I checked it by taking a hose that fit snug into the injector whole and ran that to a small hose into a glass of water. While going forward with the engine you will see air bubbles, as soon as it crosses TDC it will immediately start to pull the water up the tube (use a clear tube). This confirmed my dial indicator measurements were spot on.
I'd feel confident doing this on any engine now, just don't suck water into your engine. I was amazed at how exact (little movement) could push air, or suck water.
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#8
by
libbydiesel
on 03 Jan, 2013 18:39
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I really like that method best of any I have ever heard. Thank you for sharing.
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#9
by
theman53
on 03 Jan, 2013 19:29
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My first post on here...
I installed a 1.6 into a 59 Jeep and marked the flywheel (Jeep flywheel) when I had it apart. Once I put it all together I checked it by taking a hose that fit snug into the injector whole and ran that to a small hose into a glass of water. While going forward with the engine you will see air bubbles, as soon as it crosses TDC it will immediately start to pull the water up the tube (use a clear tube). This confirmed my dial indicator measurements were spot on.
I'd feel confident doing this on any engine now, just don't suck water into your engine. I was amazed at how exact (little movement) could push air, or suck water.
I like this as well. I am putting an AAZ made into an M-TDI into my 2002 jeep wrangler this spring/summer. I planned on using an old sclool pointer that would be on the front of the engine. That way I could have 2 spots to look at for verification.
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#10
by
TylerDurden
on 03 Jan, 2013 22:06
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Nifty idea... can it resolve to one degree of crank rotation?
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#11
by
fatmobile
on 04 Jan, 2013 01:20
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Resolution depends on how skinny the hose in the water is.
Great idea.
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#12
by
CRSMP5
on 04 Jan, 2013 03:19
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get a pd crank lock........ look one up... do same design but have it goto the middle oil pan bolt.... that works ONLY if the crank pully is on crank snout in proper place.. but if stock, 1.6-pd the allen bolt hole in it with the little titty around 7pm, points to the oil pan bolt...
now a bad pully key way.. or crank snout.. this does not count...
its one of the things i double check... ive found when its not there... the snout/pully is failing...
so theman... build one for your timming belt jobs... they make for the pd... too bad not older ones... pd has a spot for a pin... rest do not.. so no way to use pd on older stuff...
but a bracce that uses 2 crank bolt holes, then L shape to oil pan bolt area... all you need...
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#13
by
nwcali6
on 05 Jan, 2013 19:27
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Nifty idea... can it resolve to one degree of crank rotation?
I don't know the "resolution" but I know I barely moved the crank and the water/air would move. You'd have to find a way of moving it miniscule amounts to get it any closer...
I did mine when the timing belt was not on (valves closed) so that part would not mess with the compression (valve opening/closing). Otherwise it would work well..obviously...
