Turbo Drain Line

[homerj1]

Hello, I'm using a k03 turbo on my 1.6td, - but the turbo oil drain line is only half there.  It comes out of the turbo, to some steel braid and then is cut off.

How much pressure is in this line?   How important is hose id?  How much heat is happening back there?

 I was contemplating getting a heat\oil resistant, slide it on and clamp it to the turbo (on solid steel line that is left) and into a fitting into the oil plan.

Or get a OEM - but expensive one.  ( not sure of availabilty - other then Prothe )

[rodpaslow]

lots of heat, low pressure.  There is a post as to what the oil pan takes as a connection, but I think a high temp hose is okay in that application $.02.

[burn_your_money]

There is no stock drain line to fit your application, you need to go custom.

[homerj1]

There is no stock drain line to fit your application, you need to go custom.

Any specifics or advice?

[TylerDurden]

Somebody recently got a line fabbed at the hydraulic shop for ~$50...

[burn_your_money]

There is no stock drain line to fit your application, you need to go custom.

Any specifics or advice?

Post #2 covers it well. Just get some flexible, oil compatible hose that is rated to at least 200c and you should be fine. It's zero pressure so it doesn't have to be very fancy.

[theman53]

Yep, could be as simple as 4 hose clamps and good hose.

[RabbitJockey]

check out ebay, they have alot of nice bits that will make it basically as easy as dropping the pan, drill a hole in it, tighten a night and reinstall the pan, then hose clamp some hose on there like everyone else has said.

[homerj1]

Thanks for all the help!

[homerj1]

Anyone know the type of fitting that will thread on a 1.6td turbo oil drain fitting on the oil pan?

Visited  a variety of places around town with no success.  

I've figured out the top end  of my k03 turbo on 1.6td - But not the turbo oil drain side into the oil pan.

Local shop guy was talking soldering 1/2 copper tube into the oil pan fitting & attaching hose to the turbo. - but not sure of my soldering\brazing abilities, combine with the softness of the copper and the vibration of our diesels.

Home Depot here I come......

[vanbcguy]

Copper + vibration = cracks...

Oil line + cracks = engine damage...

Find someone who can weld a fitting on and you'll be good to go.  Soldering isn't going to cut it.

[theman53]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FILLRITE-Suction-Hose-6XGX2

This is the same stuff I used for my drain line. I paid nowhere near that for it. I think I had 18.00 in mine with crimped ends. The hose with no ends was like 10.00...4 years ago. The deal is it is a rubber that is rated for anything you want to throw at it and it has 2 wires on the inside to keep it from collapsing on itself under suction. It also works on our applications to bend it and it not collapse either. Put 2 hose clamps on each end and it never leaked for me. Crimped would be better so I went to that. You can have about any end crimped on. I went with a JIC fitting and welded that to my pan. Watch when welding the pan as the angle the oil fitting comes out is important and so is the heat. I warped my pan pretty good.

Good Luck.

[81 vw pu]

Anyone know the type of fitting that will thread on a 1.6td turbo oil drain fitting on the oil pan?
According to this, at the bottom of the page, the oil pan fitting is Male 22mm DIN. The fittings are not cheap.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=12579.0