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Axle nut lol
by
srgtlord
on 11 Dec, 2012 06:39
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So I amazed myself the other day. To summarize my story, I broke my breaker bar when trying to remove a rusty 30mm axle nut. I borrowed my uncle's 3/4 ratchet put a 6 foot pipe on the nut and it came off easy peasy. Not thinking properly after I put I took the same 3/4 ratchet and 6 foot pipe and went to town tightening the axle nut. Then the nut started spinning....And low and behold the nut had stripped out!!!!!! The shaft threads looked Ok except for 1 spot but I figured what the hell ,so I found another nut lying around and only torqued that one about 1/4 the amount I torqued the other, I think it will be fine. So the warning is to use 3/4 tools for removing axle nuts, NOT FOR TIGHTENING!!!!!!!!!!
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#1
by
bajacalal
on 11 Dec, 2012 09:16
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I think you should really follow the torque procedure for axle nuts... The axle nut presses the two sides of the bearing into each other, so it sets the bearing preload, right? Wrong preload on a bearing, too loose or too tight and it will quickly fail. I don't use a torque wrench for everything but I've always felt using one anything where there are moving parts is a must (engine, suspension, bearings).
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#2
by
srgtlord
on 11 Dec, 2012 10:03
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Lesson learned. Is a 3/4 inch torque wrench required?
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#3
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Dec, 2012 10:14
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Lesson learned. Is a 3/4 inch torque wrench required?
a 1/2" wrench will work if it goes up to 200 ft lbs..
small bearings are ~167 ft lbs, big bearings are ~193 ft lbs
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#4
by
srgtlord
on 11 Dec, 2012 10:21
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I was going to pick up this wrench.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-2-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NVAHMW/ref=sr_1_7?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1355249293&sr=1-7I now understand that following a procedure down to a T and neglecting to perform certain actions, is not performing a procedure down to a T such as neglecting to torque bolts to proper specs. Over tightening has been the root cause of 2 major issues recently. While I am at it Ill purchase the stupid timing belt tension gauge because it is the only definitive way to tell timing belt tension. If anyone knows where to find one it would be greatly appreciated.
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#5
by
TylerDurden
on 11 Dec, 2012 11:48
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I think you should really follow the torque procedure for axle nuts... The axle nut presses the two sides of the bearing into each other, so it sets the bearing preload, right?
IIRC, they're ball-bearings, so no preload, but the inner races can't be allowed to spread.
Good idea to torque to spec anyway.
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#6
by
745 turbogreasel
on 11 Dec, 2012 12:49
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Proper torque is 100% crucial to bearing survival.
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#7
by
8v-of-fury
on 11 Dec, 2012 13:04
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Well seeing as how the tighter you torque that axle nut the tighter together it brings the two inner races....
Yeah, I'd say the torque on that axle nut is crucial. I go to by what feels like just short of 175 lbs, on the end of my breaker bar and call it a day. Haven't had a failure on mine yet! (knock on a lotta wood)
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#8
by
Wayland
on 11 Dec, 2012 13:05
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I'm not saying the axle nut shouldn't be torqued according to the proper procedure, but I have to ask: Has anyone experienced a premature wheel bearing failure that can be directly attributed to overtorquing/careless use of a cheater bar?
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#9
by
8v-of-fury
on 11 Dec, 2012 13:07
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I think if we were to actually look in to it, yes. BUT most bearing failures nowadays probably get chalked up to cheap "imported" parts anyhow..
It'd be hard to quantify.
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#10
by
smutts
on 11 Dec, 2012 13:40
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Torque wanted (ftlb) x 12 divided by your weight (lb) = the leverage in inches where you want all your weight to be hanging off the tommy bar. A loop of rope around your foot can help. Ease your weight smoothly onto it for best results. If it all goes wrong, you should have spent a small fortune on the correct tools, but it works for me.
Chances are somebody has used an air ratchet before you anyway.
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#11
by
745 turbogreasel
on 11 Dec, 2012 13:53
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I'm not saying the axle nut shouldn't be torqued according to the proper procedure, but I have to ask: Has anyone experienced a premature wheel bearing failure that can be directly attributed to overtorquing/careless use of a cheater bar?
well, if you strip out, you under torque. I've seen under torque fail in less than 100 miles.
No, I never had any reason to over tighten one, and don't see why you would.
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#12
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Dec, 2012 15:39
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IIRC, they're ball-bearings
They definitely are.
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#13
by
RabbitJockey
on 11 Dec, 2012 15:42
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i don't think the axle can put any extra stress on the bearing, i thought it just clamps the outter stub against the back of the splined hub harder, with out it that can all come apart but i didn't think it could actually apply any extra pressure on the bearing, but i could be wrong.
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#14
by
ORCoaster
on 11 Dec, 2012 15:59
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It clamps something and that is a good thing. My drivers side brake disc wobbles from side to side about a 1/8 of an inch if grabbed at the top of the disc. I put new bearings in a couple years ago and I can't see where there is any play in them except for maybe the inner races. But shove that axle in there and just snug up that big arse nut on there with a 1/2 inch ratchet and all is solid and no more play in the disc.
Not going to fool with it. I have enough other troubles to deal with.