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Pitted water pump flange on block - remedy?
by
TylerDurden
on 25 Nov, 2012 17:00
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Right where the o-ring will sit, is a fair amount of pitting.
I'm not sure I want to sand it down that much. I also think putting RTV on an o-ring is way ghetto.
Any other tips, tricks, solutions?
Thx.
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#1
by
8v-of-fury
on 25 Nov, 2012 17:30
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Light smearing of JB and then sand down smooth?
I would just RTV it and call it a day. You're not taking it back off for any normal reason anytime soon, so who cares? lol
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#2
by
Gizmoman
on 25 Nov, 2012 18:32
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Use quality RTV with a putty knife so there's "just enough" to create a smooth surface. Then let it nearly set up - nothing ghetto about that.
JB weld is ghetto IMHO and theres no telling how it will seal (against the steel) once it gets heated and cooled a few hundred times. It would probably work - just not what I would do.
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#3
by
burn_your_money
on 25 Nov, 2012 19:39
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Use quality RTV with a putty knife so there's "just enough" to create a smooth surface. Then let it nearly set up - nothing ghetto about that.
Agreed. Or just give the o-ring an even, light covering of RTV and then install it but wait a few hours before you add any coolant.
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#4
by
audilvr
on 25 Nov, 2012 20:47
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jb weld and coolant do not mix. it reacts badly over time.
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#5
by
theman53
on 25 Nov, 2012 21:25
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I would sand the block. Not too much, but enough so the pitting wasn't bad and the overall height wasn't taken down to the point other things would be in the way of the water pump housing.
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#6
by
libbydiesel
on 25 Nov, 2012 21:46
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JB Weld works fine with coolant long term. I've used it specifically for that exact issue several times and it's worked great. You need to make sure the block is totally clean and then putty knife it on and hand lap it off with sandpaper and a flat behind it. Works excellently.
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#7
by
TylerDurden
on 25 Nov, 2012 23:06
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Thanks for the advice, everyone.
I will do a bit of each. j/k
I'm sure any of the above suggestions will be more than adequate.
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#8
by
bbob203
on 26 Nov, 2012 07:18
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I sanded mine down good. cleaned it well lubed up the oring and torqued it down. no problems here.
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#9
by
srgtlord
on 26 Nov, 2012 07:48
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I left it alone and put a new o-ring on. No leaks in the 30,000 I replaced it.
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#10
by
RabbitJockey
on 26 Nov, 2012 11:57
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it is amazing what an oring will seal against some times, i've done nothing and i've also smeared silicone on there, both worked fine, the silicone is more peace of mind tho.
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#11
by
jboogie13
on 26 Nov, 2012 13:08
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it is amazing what an oring will seal against some times, i've done nothing and i've also smeared silicone on there, both worked fine, the silicone is more peace of mind tho.
this
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#12
by
damac
on 27 Nov, 2012 04:34
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Interesting I have never seen that much wear on any of the engines I got. Never anything to make me think twice about just using the oring? I sure have seen globs of red rtv all around that darn oring on used engines.
Does anybody else like that copper rtv spray? Mask things off, shake it good and a couple light coats. I have used it on stuff like my old 2 stroke dirtbike head gaskets and it seems to do well.
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#13
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 27 Nov, 2012 14:10
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Use quality RTV with a putty knife so there's "just enough" to create a smooth surface. Then let it nearly set up - nothing ghetto about that.
Agreed. Or just give the o-ring an even, light covering of RTV and then install it but wait a few hours before you add any coolant.
this is what i do, and ive seen alot worse than that, and still had it seal up nicely..
even tho there is an o-ring between the block and wp housing, i still use a light smear of RVT on both sides..