91 Eco Diesel Jetta issues

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Hey guys,  I hava a 91 Jetta Eco diesel and I have come into 2 issues lately.

1st--Injection pump leak (small at the moment)--leaking from the pump between the pump and the section the fuel lines bolt to.  The fuel lines are not leaking.  Is there a seal for that or do I have to get the pump removed and re-sealed.  I will check the bolts there and see if they are loose first.

2nd--Clunk under the hood thats felt inside when I start off--I am thinking its a motor mount.  I looked at it today and as I was revving the engine, the front mount was moving up and down pretty good and the right rear was moving (talking the load from the front mount) I am assuming--Would both mounts need to be changed or just the front?

Any one have any input for me?

Thanks alot.

[rs899]

1.  Yes, there is a big O-ring between those parts.  Most likely you will need to remove the pump to fix it, but I have seen some folks say it can be done on the car.  It seems difficult.

2.  The mounts are the first place to look, if they are old.  The front one is hydraulic so see if it is leaking.

[TylerDurden]

Guys on the hillbilly forum are doing replacement of the big o-ring... a longer timing port bolt is progressively turned in to hold the plunger guts in place as the pressure-head screws are progressively loosened, just until the seal can be removed. The o-ring is slipped around each screw one-at-a-time, to hold the head in place.

Other seals will likely need replacing, so pulling the pump is worth the effort if you have the time.

[bbob203]

Guys on the hillbilly forum are doing replacement of the big o-ring... a longer timing port bolt is progressively turned in to hold the plunger guts in place as the pressure-head screws are progressively loosened, just until the seal can be removed. The o-ring is slipped around each screw one-at-a-time, to hold the head in place.

Other seals will likely need replacing, so pulling the pump is worth the effort if you have the time.

The time spent tediously doing this procedure i feel like its just as easy to pull the pump. Ive never taken apart and ip but i can have one in a out in less than 2 hours.

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Thanks for the reply's guys!!!  As for the clunking,while driving home this morning, when I started off it almost sounded like the clunk was from the exhaust. Can the bad mount cause the exhaust to hit the body or am I dreaming?

When I started the car a lil while ago,I opened the hood and the distribution box on the IP pump was dripping down behind the pump and onto the motor and dripping every 2 seconds or so--its getting worse but when I got home (45 min drive),it had stopped leaking and the fuel was evaporated.

I will probably try replacing the oring first and if I screw that up or something falls apart,I will take the IP out then or get someone to do it as I have limited time and no timing tools...

Does anyone have the part number for that o-ring...bosch???

[TylerDurden]

Bosch #1900210154 (if the DGK 126 parts list is correct) ~$5, but the whole kit is only ~$15.

I tend to agree w. Bob, it is a fiddly thing to do in the car and the other seals will prolly start leaking too.

I did this job yesterday (out of the car).  If you are short on time, you could do just the big ring, the CS shaft and the Governor shaft seal... the rest can be done without removing the pump.

Timing tools are not needed if you mark the pump position and clamp the TB to the cam pulley and IM pulley using bulldog clips or similar. I also clamp to the tensioner and mark the belt and pulleys with a china-pencil.

[TylerDurden]

[TylerDurden]

Re the clunk... ja, the bad mount can allow the exhaust to hit. Also, the engine rocking stresses the bottom of the toilet-bowl and promotes cracking at  the weld.

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Ok..Thx for the info.  My local fuel inj service has the oring in stock and I plan on changing it on Tuesday as well as the front mount.  Any tips or tricks?

[TylerDurden]

If you can easily remove the delivery valves, you won't need to stretch the o-ring as much to get it over the HP head.

For in-the-car procedure, I'd back out each screw 1/2turn and then turn the extra-long timing bolt in until it touches the plunger. (The goal is to not let the plunger washer/spacer fall from its recess between the camplate and plunger.) Out of the car, I clamp the IP with the HP head pointing up (no need for timing bolt removal).

I get the HP head out only far enough to access the o-ring (~12mm), with equal tension on each bolt (bolt heads mostly just touching).

Most folks report just snipping the old ring and peeling it out of the groove. Worked for me.

I put the new ring over the stop solenoid and pull out one top bolt, get the new ring in the groove and replace that bolt (. Then I pull the next top bolt and get the ring in the groove and replace that bolt.

I was able to stretch the o-ring over the HP head and R-R the next bolt without the o-ring getting snagged on the exposed threads of the last bolt, some guys protect the o-ring with some material between the bolt threads and the ring.

R-R the last bolt to get the o-ring  entirely around the groove... the ring should contract enough after stretching to loosely fit in the groove. This is a good time to flush any residual grime out with brake cleaner, then lube with oil or fuel.

Loosen the x-long timing bolt 1/2 turn and tighten the other bolts in 1/2 turn. The idea is to avoid turning the timing bolt out too far, or tightening the head bolts too much, by loosening the same distance as tightening. That's another reason why out-of-the-car is my preference; no worries on that.

[jboogie13]

If you can easily remove the delivery valves, you won't need to stretch the o-ring as much to get it over the HP head.

For in-the-car procedure, I'd back out each screw 1/2turn and then turn the extra-long timing bolt in until it touches the plunger. (The goal is to not let the plunger washer/spacer fall from its recess between the camplate and plunger.) Out of the car, I clamp the IP with the HP head pointing up (no need for timing bolt removal).

I get the HP head out only far enough to access the o-ring (~12mm), with equal tension on each bolt (bolt heads mostly just touching).

Most folks report just snipping the old ring and peeling it out of the groove. Worked for me.

I put the new ring over the stop solenoid and pull out one top bolt, get the new ring in the groove and replace that bolt (. Then I pull the next top bolt and get the ring in the groove and replace that bolt.

I was able to stretch the o-ring over the HP head and R-R the next bolt without the o-ring getting snagged on the exposed threads of the last bolt, some guys protect the o-ring with some material between the bolt threads and the ring.

R-R the last bolt to get the o-ring  entirely around the groove... the ring should contract enough after stretching to loosely fit in the groove. This is a good time to flush any residual grime out with brake cleaner, then lube with oil or fuel.

Loosen the x-long timing bolt 1/2 turn and tighten the other bolts in 1/2 turn. The idea is to avoid turning the timing bolt out too far, or tightening the head bolts too much, by loosening the same distance as tightening. That's another reason why out-of-the-car is my preference; no worries on that.

only thing i would add here is that i avoid letting brake cleaner/carb cleaner or anything of the sort come into contact with rubber parts that you arent replacing, flush before you install the o-ring then lube, then install the new seal. brake cleaner can dry out seals and cause them to fail prematurely or not seal properly from the get go.

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Cool,  Thx guys for the help.. Now before I start this I have one question.  The parts diagram above stated I needed part # 1900210154 and I think I ordered 2460210012??  Which is correct?  I got that number from http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=30945.0  Any ideas?

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Hey,  I did the job yesterday and it went well.  I leaked checked it again this am and all is well..  My clunking was partially motor mount and which may have caused a broken exhaust hangar.

Thx for all the help..

[745 turbogreasel]

Guys on the hillbilly forum are doing replacement of the big o-ring... a longer timing port bolt is progressively turned in to hold the plunger guts in place as the pressure-head screws are progressively loosened, just until the seal can be removed. The o-ring is slipped around each screw one-at-a-time, to hold the head in place.

Other seals will likely need replacing, so pulling the pump is worth the effort if you have the time.

The time spent tediously doing this procedure i feel like its just as easy to pull the pump. Ive never taken apart and ip but i can have one in a out in less than 2 hours.

I don't agree at all, You can be done in 25 minutes.

[DAKOTAKIDD]

Sorry guys one more question--Today was the first time I drove it since I repaired the pump.  Now I have a small leak from a couple injectors from the b-nuts. (Nut that attaches the fuel line to the injectors).  I have tightened them and are still leaking a little.  Is there any tips or tricks or repairs for this or am I looking at new lines/injectors if I want to fix it.


Let me know

Thx again