Author Topic: Governor shaft seal: tips & tricks?  (Read 1726 times)

November 14, 2012, 08:57:09 am

TylerDurden

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    I have a VW problem.
Governor shaft seal: tips & tricks?
« on: November 14, 2012, 08:57:09 am »
I need to reseal an IP on an 81 Dasher, leaking from the governor shaft, HP head and CS lever.

AIUI, I can back-out the governor shaft enough to change the o-ring without the guts falling apart, but I should mark the shaft and return it to the original position.

Is this correct and is there anything else I should consider/beware of?

Thanx in advance.



Reply #1November 14, 2012, 09:46:54 am

theman53

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Re: Governor shaft seal: tips & tricks?
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2012, 09:46:54 am »
I don't think. If I understand what you are saying then no. You need to keep pressure on the head or have it off the car and verical or things can go bad...which if you are doing the cold start then you probably have it off the car. But still the HP head and the main fuel screw with the gov. should not be an issue. To take the pump top off you can back out the gov. but it isn't needed. Remember there is some slop in the pump top holes so some adjustments may be needed even if you move nothing else.

Reply #2November 14, 2012, 10:03:43 am

libbydiesel

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Re: Governor shaft seal: tips & tricks?
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2012, 10:03:43 am »
Just do it while you have the top off the pump.  That way you can make sure the governor hub/flyweights don't fall out of position.  Measure the depth of the shaft prior to removal.  I've never seen an older 1.6 pump that had the load dependent timing advance, so very likely the exact position of the governor shaft is not critical and eyeballing it would be good enough.

If you have three leaks, then make sure the out bolt and the return line to the tank are not plugged.

 

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