
By having a small diam inlet to the airbox, the flow velocity through that pipe is very high. When flow velocity is high, relative pressure is low (look up pitot static tubes for some reading on that).
As the air speeds through the inlet tube, it gets to the cavity under the filter and slows down very rapidly. This creates a relative high pressure area.... which helps to 'push' the air through the filter.
Thats about the simplest explanation I can give :-)
By having a small diam inlet to the airbox, the flow velocity through that pipe is very high. When flow velocity is high, relative pressure is low (look up pitot static tubes for some reading on that).
As the air speeds through the inlet tube, it gets to the cavity under the filter and slows down very rapidly. This creates a relative high pressure area.... which helps to 'push' the air through the filter.
Thats about the simplest explanation I can give :-)
How would I go about calculating a suitable trumpet size for my 200-240 hp expected power output?
I plan to make a "replica" of the pictured inlet trumpet, but with a bigger opening to support the extra power.
I know the air box itself is capable of ~350 hp on a diesel engine, but I doubt the OEM inlet trumpet is.

The reason why I'm not using a cone filter:
1. They are not made of paper which means less effective filtration
2. Using one would require a big amount of work in building air tight heat shields and cold air feed
3. The factory air box is thoroughly engineered and doesn't limit power at the levels that are possible on a 1.6 IDI.
4. Cleaning and oiling a cone filter is hard work and it's difficult to apply just the right amount of oil to assure both filtration and flow.
A cone would be tempting for the relative ease of it, but you can see I have my reasons not using one.
Any help for estimating a good size for the diffuser/trumpet pipe's diameters?
The reason why I'm not using a cone filter:
1. They are not made of paper which means less effective filtration
2. Using one would require a big amount of work in building air tight heat shields and cold air feed
3. The factory air box is thoroughly engineered and doesn't limit power at the levels that are possible on a 1.6 IDI.
4. Cleaning and oiling a cone filter is hard work and it's difficult to apply just the right amount of oil to assure both filtration and flow.
A cone would be tempting for the relative ease of it, but you can see I have my reasons not using one.
Any help for estimating a good size for the diffuser/trumpet pipe's diameters?
lol, the stock TD air box isnt a restriction because there are other MUCH LARGER restrictions in the intake system..
the top half of the box is great, i imagine it flows amazing..
the bottom half tho, it sucks greatly.. there is only a 1" hole in that velocity stack.. THATS A RESTRICTION.
i guarantee you that you could take a 100hp TD, run it on the dyno twice, with the stock intake on one run, and the cone on another run..
i GUARANTEE it would make more power with the cone..
and its not rocket science.. oiling a filter is EASY..
K&N filters tell you EXACTLY how much oil to use (mine takes 1.42 ozs of oil) so, if you cant figure that out, i feel bad for you.
not all cone filters are created equal tho.. you get what you pay for..
something cheap, like a SPECTRE, or anything similar that they carry at napa auto, or vato zone, those are NOT GOOD.. they really dont filter well..
K&N filters on the other hand, those are quite nice filters.. you can tell the difference in quality just by setting the 2 filters side by side..
ive been running my K&N for lots of miles, and my entire intake system (from filter to intake valves) is still SPOTLESS.. light coating of oil, but NOTHING else.. just clean.
also, cone filters actually filter better, the dirtier they get.
they are re-usable, and for someone like me, that lives in the country, it doesnt take long for the K&N to pay for its self..
they are not hard to service. drying the filter is the hardest, and most time consuming bit.. people try and dry them with compressed air, but end up ruining the filter media..
you dont NEED to fabricate anything to run a cone filter. i plumbed mine down into the inner fender, where the original charcoal canister used to be.. BAM! cold air intake without fabricating anything..
VW diesel filters are quite large, they will flow lots of air.. the actual air box tho, that is the restriction.
The reason why I'm not using a cone filter:
1. They are not made of paper which means less effective filtration
2. Using one would require a big amount of work in building air tight heat shields and cold air feed
3. The factory air box is thoroughly engineered and doesn't limit power at the levels that are possible on a 1.6 IDI.
4. Cleaning and oiling a cone filter is hard work and it's difficult to apply just the right amount of oil to assure both filtration and flow.
A cone would be tempting for the relative ease of it, but you can see I have my reasons not using one.
Any help for estimating a good size for the diffuser/trumpet pipe's diameters?
lol, the stock TD air box isnt a restriction because there are other MUCH LARGER restrictions in the intake system..
the top half of the box is great, i imagine it flows amazing..
the bottom half tho, it sucks greatly.. there is only a 1" hole in that velocity stack.. THATS A RESTRICTION.
i guarantee you that you could take a 100hp TD, run it on the dyno twice, with the stock intake on one run, and the cone on another run..
i GUARANTEE it would make more power with the cone..
and its not rocket science.. oiling a filter is EASY..
K&N filters tell you EXACTLY how much oil to use (mine takes 1.42 ozs of oil) so, if you cant figure that out, i feel bad for you.
not all cone filters are created equal tho.. you get what you pay for..
something cheap, like a SPECTRE, or anything similar that they carry at napa auto, or vato zone, those are NOT GOOD.. they really dont filter well..
K&N filters on the other hand, those are quite nice filters.. you can tell the difference in quality just by setting the 2 filters side by side..
ive been running my K&N for lots of miles, and my entire intake system (from filter to intake valves) is still SPOTLESS.. light coating of oil, but NOTHING else.. just clean.
also, cone filters actually filter better, the dirtier they get.
they are re-usable, and for someone like me, that lives in the country, it doesnt take long for the K&N to pay for its self..
they are not hard to service. drying the filter is the hardest, and most time consuming bit.. people try and dry them with compressed air, but end up ruining the filter media..
you dont NEED to fabricate anything to run a cone filter. i plumbed mine down into the inner fender, where the original charcoal canister used to be.. BAM! cold air intake without fabricating anything..
VW diesel filters are quite large, they will flow lots of air.. the actual air box tho, that is the restriction.
With respect ROR, I'm not sure you can state that the TD airbox underside 1" hole is a restriction and expect anyone to believe it unless you have some proof to back it up.
The factory setups from VW are very well designed devices... all the way from the mk1 n/a diesel intake to the current TDI airboxes... and the nature of aerodynamics is that you can't always just look at something and correctly guess whether its good or rubbish.
You asked before whats wrong with an open paper filter... well nothing is 'wrong' with it really. Thats essentially what I am running at the moment in my cabriolet (I have no space where the filter is mounted to have a bottom on the airbox at all, unfortunately :-( )
However, by having no plumbing whatsoever 'upstream' of the filter element, you forgo any further possibility of some gain by clever aerodynamic design.
I was thinking instead of making one maybe find one from another bag car that makes your power goal stock like an Audi v6 or v8 car. That or maybe make a trumpet dimensionally 3 times the size of the stock piece