-
#105
by
carrizog60
on 25 Jun, 2012 14:50
-
i have a 2052 on a 1.9 and with vanes closed(not fully) its quite restrictive!
yours is bigger but even that way i wouldnt close them all the way...
you get the on-off response with just a boost can to operate the vanes,i feel that and my wastegate opens at 1bar,yours being higher would be even worse...
2 stage wastegate?
i am planing on running mine at 1 bar and the add a boost controller in another line to incresed the boost to my demand.
an electric servo would switch from sissy 1 bar to OMG boost by a flick of a button...
is that what you want?
-
#106
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Jun, 2012 16:59
-
i have a 2052 on a 1.9 and with vanes closed(not fully) its quite restrictive!
yours is bigger but even that way i wouldnt close them all the way...
you get the on-off response with just a boost can to operate the vanes,i feel that and my wastegate opens at 1bar,yours being higher would be even worse...
2 stage wastegate?
i am planing on running mine at 1 bar and the add a boost controller in another line to incresed the boost to my demand.
an electric servo would switch from sissy 1 bar to OMG boost by a flick of a button...
is that what you want?
even tho i only have a 10psi wastegate controller working the vanes, it still works good, for what it is atleast.. my vanes are NOT closed. they are closed for a split second, but the wastegate actuator starts opening them by like 5 psi..
-
#107
by
theman53
on 07 Jul, 2012 10:05
-
Exhaust Bore size
36.60mm A/R=.65 on GT1749V and VNT15
37.26mm A/R=.61 on GT1749VA
38.23mm A/R=.61 on GT1749VB
38.65mm A/R=.62 on GT1749VC (Third generation vane)
40mm A/R=.74 on GTB1756VK (Third generation vane)
42mm A/R=.64 on GTB2056VL Volvo (Third generation vane)
43mm A/R=.59 on GTB2056VK Q7 (Third generation vane)
44.5mm A/R=.74 on GTB2260VK (Third generation vane)
I found some info for you.
-
#108
by
Rising
on 12 Sep, 2012 13:13
-
R.O.R how is this setup still running? Did you ever get around to making that mechanical vnt control? Or are you still using the wastegate boost can method?
Sorry to thread resurrect but I read through it recently from start to finish and it has me interested in how your n/a engine is holding up to such a large turbo. Plus with the vnt goodness i'd really like to see what a dyno plot would look like.
-
#109
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 Sep, 2012 15:03
-
R.O.R how is this setup still running? Did you ever get around to making that mechanical vnt control? Or are you still using the wastegate boost can method?
Sorry to thread resurrect but I read through it recently from start to finish and it has me interested in how your n/a engine is holding up to such a large turbo. Plus with the vnt goodness i'd really like to see what a dyno plot would look like.
ive been driving it..
the wastegate can is a HORRIBLE way to operate the turbo..
im on my 4th wastegate actuator.. it keeps eating the diaphragms..
i think the heat keeps killing them.
never messed with the linkage, im trying to move, and fix other cars, and i just dont have time for the VNT..
its been just fine tho.. works great on the road. runs nice and cool, never more than 1000*, even pulling hills..
-
#110
by
Rising
on 18 Sep, 2012 20:27
-
Sounds like a beast! Still psyched to see a n/a dealing with these pressures consistently.
I'm trying to figure out how hard it would be to design a mechanical control as my vnt may be going in soon and I don't want to ruin my nicely functioning vanes.. but it seems like the boost can method is out.
Did you run this with no down pipe for awhile? I may have been mistaken but I thought that I read that somewhere. Is that okay to do?
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
-
#111
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 19 Sep, 2012 13:43
-
Sounds like a beast! Still psyched to see a n/a dealing with these pressures consistently.
I'm trying to figure out how hard it would be to design a mechanical control as my vnt may be going in soon and I don't want to ruin my nicely functioning vanes.. but it seems like the boost can method is out.
Did you run this with no down pipe for awhile? I may have been mistaken but I thought that I read that somewhere. Is that okay to do?
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
i think the boost can method is acceptable, you just have to have a boost can that opens at the proper pressures to work right with the turbo.. i wouldnt run straight boost can tho on a smaller VNT.. they react too quickly, and are too restrictive when they are closed down.
yes, i have an open downpipe. always have had.
basically, if you want a fool-proof vane control design, take Andrew's (Libbybapa, er, Libbydiesel) linkage setup (The Libby Links) and incorporate that into your build.. they have been used successfully in many builds..
-
#112
by
Rising
on 24 Sep, 2012 14:52
-
So exhaust just exits out the hot side of your turbo under your hood?
I want to build a linkage but it seems like a ton of trial and error and it would have to be a fairly precise linkage I would think to actuate the vanes efficiently and correctly.. I might start trying to build a mock design on my n/a block after I get the new block in.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
-
#113
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Sep, 2012 10:10
-
So exhaust just exits out the hot side of your turbo under your hood?
I want to build a linkage but it seems like a ton of trial and error and it would have to be a fairly precise linkage I would think to actuate the vanes efficiently and correctly.. I might start trying to build a mock design on my n/a block after I get the new block in.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
no, i have a DOWNPIPE.. like, a regular downpipe..
it just doesnt have an exhaust hooked up to it..
im not done beating my head on the wall with wastegate actators, im convinced that with the right actuator, i can make my turbo work right...
-
#114
by
Rising
on 25 Sep, 2012 11:10
-
Oh okay. For some reason I thought I read somewhere that you were driving it and then a later post said you were going to make a down pipe... my bad.
Yeah I mean it was computer controlled via vacuum at first right? There should be a way to get it to work someway. Does the vacuum pump change at all determined on load? Or just rpm?
Also how does this turbo compare to your old vnt 15? I know you have said it flows alot more air and boosy obviously. But what about lag? And intake temps/ egts?
I have a gt1749v (I believe ) and I've heard lately some people complaining about how small of a turbo it is and I'm wondering if maybe I should try and sell it or trade it for something a little larger or keep it and run it for awhile..
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
-
#115
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Sep, 2012 12:23
-
Oh okay. For some reason I thought I read somewhere that you were driving it and then a later post said you were going to make a down pipe... my bad.
Yeah I mean it was computer controlled via vacuum at first right? There should be a way to get it to work someway. Does the vacuum pump change at all determined on load? Or just rpm?
Also how does this turbo compare to your old vnt 15? I know you have said it flows alot more air and boosy obviously. But what about lag? And intake temps/ egts?
I have a gt1749v (I believe ) and I've heard lately some people complaining about how small of a turbo it is and I'm wondering if maybe I should try and sell it or trade it for something a little larger or keep it and run it for awhile..
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
GT1749V is just a fancy name for VNT15.. they work AMAZING on 1.6Ds
i cant compare my new VNT20 to my old VNT15.. i never had an EGT gauge on the 15.. but i know you could get it HOT.. because i heat seized my engine with it before..
what car/engine do you want to rn your VNT15 on? cause myself personally, i LOVE those turbos if you arent asking for crazy boost or power..
the vacuum pump produces pretty much the same amount of vacuum no matter what RPM its turning.. the vacuum pump is in no way load sensitive.. thats why they have the N75 valve, and all those vacuum switches and solenoids to control the VNT on a TDI..
the VNTs are computer/vacuum controlled on the TDI engines.. but i dont think there is an easy way to adapt the vacuum system to an IDI engine easily..
i DID have just a turbo (no downpipe) for the first drive, but thats it.. i made a downpipe at school the next day. if i ran my turbo with no downpipe for more than a mile or 2, i would have a thoroughly black engine room in no time, plus a melted shifter, and probably no brakes as well..
-
#116
by
Rising
on 25 Sep, 2012 15:09
-
Oh okay. For some reason I thought I read somewhere that you were driving it and then a later post said you were going to make a down pipe... my bad.
Yeah I mean it was computer controlled via vacuum at first right? There should be a way to get it to work someway. Does the vacuum pump change at all determined on load? Or just rpm?
Also how does this turbo compare to your old vnt 15? I know you have said it flows alot more air and boosy obviously. But what about lag? And intake temps/ egts?
I have a gt1749v (I believe ) and I've heard lately some people complaining about how small of a turbo it is and I'm wondering if maybe I should try and sell it or trade it for something a little larger or keep it and run it for awhile..
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
GT1749V is just a fancy name for VNT15.. they work AMAZING on 1.6Ds
i cant compare my new VNT20 to my old VNT15.. i never had an EGT gauge on the 15.. but i know you could get it HOT.. because i heat seized my engine with it before..
what car/engine do you want to rn your VNT15 on? cause myself personally, i LOVE those turbos if you arent asking for crazy boost or power..
the vacuum pump produces pretty much the same amount of vacuum no matter what RPM its turning.. the vacuum pump is in no way load sensitive.. thats why they have the N75 valve, and all those vacuum switches and solenoids to control the VNT on a TDI..
the VNTs are computer/vacuum controlled on the TDI engines.. but i dont think there is an easy way to adapt the vacuum system to an IDI engine easily..
i DID have just a turbo (no downpipe) for the first drive, but thats it.. i made a downpipe at school the next day. if i ran my turbo with no downpipe for more than a mile or 2, i would have a thoroughly black engine room in no time, plus a melted shifter, and probably no brakes as well..
Haha okay thanks for clearing up the confusion. I thought maybe I just read wrong.
Yeah the vnt15(i just thought I'd use the technical name) seemed like a good turbo at the time. It was going on a n/a mk1 rabbit. I was going to aim for around 15 psi or maybe a couple more depending on how ambitious I got
But since that engine blew up I ended up getting a td block and head. I'll probably run it n/a at first.. but soon I'd like to put either this or maybe something a little bigger on and shoot for some decent daily driver horsepower. I was trying to be conservative with my n/a block but I feel more confident with this block.
I'd like to stay with a vnt but I feel like with a td block I could do some mid 20s for a blast of a daily. So I guess my only other options are the 17 or the 20 like you have.
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
-
#117
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Sep, 2012 11:32
-
im running ~20psi on a stock n/a engine..
-
#118
by
Rising
on 26 Sep, 2012 15:45
-
Haha yeah not gonna lie you were basically the inspiration for turboing my n/a...
Anyway sorry to threadjack a bit. Any plans to dyno this beast ever?
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
-
#119
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Sep, 2012 20:01
-
Haha yeah not gonna lie you were basically the inspiration for turboing my n/a...
Anyway sorry to threadjack a bit. Any plans to dyno this beast ever?
Sent from my Thunderbolt using Tapatalk 2
not gonna waste my money at the dyno until i know it makes plenty of power..
maybe when i get the turbo working properly, then i will dyno it..
still need to build and install the Peugeot TD pump..
and FWIW, my engine started out life as a vanagon engine, so its used to being worked hard..